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1000W@8ohm amp module from batterys
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Timebomb View Drop Down
Old Croc
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    Posted: 15 December 2013 at 6:24pm
Does anyone have any suggestions for high power amp modules that can be run from batterys, i had this one in the back of my head but it needs +/- 75V.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-X-1500Watt-Class-D-Audio-Amplifier-Board-IRS2092-1500W-Mono-Power-Amp-/350841388643?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item51afc6be63

Current idea is to run 4 12V batterys for 48V and one of these running a 4 ohm bass driver, gets me about 250W but really im looking for something that will give me about 1000W into 8 ohms, bridged is fine, does anyone know of a board or chip that will do it?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350616582199?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Many thanks.

James
James Secker          facebook.com/soundgearuk
James@soundgear.co.uk               www.soundgear.co.uk
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Points: 517 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 December 2013 at 6:31pm
You could get a class D car amplifier and a very big battery. It will higher the voltage internally.
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Saturnus View Drop Down
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For those kind of power numbers you'd probably be better off with a class D car amp mono module.
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slaz View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Saturnus Saturnus wrote:

For those kind of power numbers you'd probably be better off with a class D car amp mono module.


+1

Definitely the way to go. It not impossible you could get a DC-Dc converter module to supply something in the region of ± 75V - but that will have its own issues ...
REMEMBER....POLITICIANS AND DIAPERS SHOULD BE CHANGED OFTEN AND FOR THE SAME REASON
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cheers guys, any suggestions?
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Points: 266 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mr. doom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2013 at 2:05pm
That is a lot of watts to get out of a car amp, you will need something that puts out 2000 watts @ 4ohms/4000 watts at 1ohm RMS, NOT PEAK!
 There are many amps available that get over 1000 watts @ 1-4ohms, the 3db you will get over a 500 watt @ 8ohm amp may not be worth the cost IMO.  
Vibe and Alpine are popular with the 12volters in Europe, Soundstream, Percision Power etc.


The nice things about  car amps is that most are class d and many have high/low pass x-overs built in but I would not want to haul a heavy Lead battery around  much less four of them and lithium's are still $$$.

You will get much more output with multiple subs and 4ohm or lower drivers than megawatt amps.
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Points: 2716 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Timebomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2013 at 6:53pm
Thanks,  i was looking at 2 channel amps that do about 500/ch RMS into 4 ohms, and bridgeable at about 1000W @8 ohms, ive found a few but most dont want to tell you if there class d and no mention of efficiency..
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Points: 2713 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2013 at 7:27pm
Originally posted by Timebomb Timebomb wrote:

Thanks,  i was looking at 2 channel amps that do about 500/ch RMS into 4 ohms, and bridgeable at about 1000W @8 ohms, ive found a few but most dont want to tell you if there class d and no mention of efficiency..


I'd say - in general - if they don't mention class D / whatever in the spec, assume they're class AB.
Always assume plenty of bull**** in the specs .... e.g. power is measured at 14.8V supply, so if using using standalone 12V battery(s) - the average of your power source across the discharge cycle will about 12-12.5V - yielding about 30% less watts.

Stick to good brands like Kenwood, Alpine, Vibe + 1 or 2 others. Alot have fixed "subsonic" HPF at around 20Hz which is too low really. If its for outdoor use subsonic HPF at around 40Hz or so will likely increase battery life substantially.

Using multiple drivers will give you a better impedance match ... e.g. 2 x 15s would work better than 1 x 18 .... probably at the expense of larger cabs ..... but - as always there's no "free lunch"  with these things.
REMEMBER....POLITICIANS AND DIAPERS SHOULD BE CHANGED OFTEN AND FOR THE SAME REASON
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Points: 517 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2013 at 7:50pm
May I ask: what are you planning to do with the amp? The difference between 1000 and 2000 watts will be the same as a 3db more efficient driver, or another driver. Difference is that one costs way more money and power.

Edited by lutkeveld - 16 December 2013 at 9:13pm
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Another vote for more drivers instead of more watts
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Points: 1226 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SMP Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2013 at 9:37pm
I Have some 48V amps here but only 600W jobs
Perhaps see if you can find some of the old Crest Audio ones I think they ae FFA600 and run them in bridge for 1200W 8R
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Points: 2716 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Timebomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 December 2013 at 9:55pm
Cheers guys, its for a 12" tapped horn on a push bike trailer, getting a different driver thats 3dB more efficient is not possable, nor is doubleing the size of the cab to allow 2 drivers, im aiming for as much spl as i can put on a bike trailer, 1 2 channel amp bridged into 8 ohms seems like the best way to run things, if i end up using Ni-MH cells i will have voltage options.
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