1000W@8ohm amp module from batterys

Timebomb wrote: Cheers guys, its for a 12" tapped horn on a push bike trailer, getting a different driver thats 3dB more efficient is not possable, nor is doubleing the size of the cab to allow 2 drivers, im aiming for as much spl as i can put on a bike trailer, 1 2 channel amp bridged into 8 ohms seems like the best way to run things, if i end up using Ni-MH cells i will have voltage options.

Scrap the tapped horn and make a reflex box of the same size. It will easily fit two 12" woofers instead of one in the tapped horn and you have gained 3dB sensitivity.

mr. doom wrote: I crammed six 10" drivers into a bike trailer and power it with a 4X100 2050amp at 24 volts. Speaker>Wood when space is at a premium IMO. Giving it more power would be nice but the batteries to run a high output amp are either heavy or expensive.

What drivers were you using?  Its not just then space its the weaght thats really the limiting factor for me.

Timebomb wrote: Humm i doubt a a 2x12" reflex is going to have higher sensitivity than a tapped horn, not with the same extension i should be able to hit 100-101dB, a 2x12" reflex is not going to be 103-104dB with reasonable extension, i wouldent gain 3dB, you would have to buy twice as many drivers as well and it would probably weagh more.  you would gain power handleing but thats not really the restriction, issue is the batterys and the weight.    Direct radiators could beat it sensitivity wise but not with the same extension.

What good is 100dB at 50hz outdoors? It's barely going to be audible.

Timebomb wrote: 100dB sensitivity @ 1M1W, if i can gat 1000W into it it should get close to 130dB max output, its my own design, vaguely similar to the Tham 12.

I think you'll find it doesn't work quite like that. 

How vaguely similar to the THAM12? THAMs and Cubo's are highly optimized designs that squeezes just about every drop of output out of the drivers. Making any changes to them, even very small, can have a huge negative impact if not done exactly right.

There's no substitute for raw cone area and displacement. A single 12" woofer isn't going to make heads spin even with 1000 watt amplifier.

Edited by Saturnus - 17 December 2013 at 2:02am

Timebomb wrote: mr. doom wrote: I crammed six 10" drivers into a bike trailer and power it with a 4X100 2050amp at 24 volts. Speaker>Wood when space is at a premium IMO. Giving it more power would be nice but the batteries to run a high output amp are either heavy or expensive.    What drivers were you using?  Its not just then space its the weaght thats really the limiting factor for me.

Hi Again,  Ive put the idea of getting 1000W into the bass driver on hold and bought a vibe slick stereo 4 channel car amplifier, i will run it bridged so i should get towords 150W into the bass driver, and the same into the mid high.  Im considering using 18650 Li-ion cells like thease
http:////www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Sanyo-UR-18650-FM-2600-mAh-Li-ion-3-7v-Rechargeable-Protected-Batteries-UK-/360789924946?pt=UK_ConsumerElectronics_Batteries_SM&hash=item5400c15c52

Possably 3 series 3 parallel to give 11.1V and about 8Ah so should be good for over an hour at full power, and longer at lower levels, with the option to add more cells if i want to go longer.  Im not sure if the vibe slick amp has a voltage cutout as those cells run down to about 8V, i know inverters tend to have cutoffs, it might be better to run 4 in parallel.

Im looking for recomendations on cells and chargers, and possably a battery management system, it seems a bit of a mine field with lots of fake / copy / joke cells advertised as allsorts of things.  Im tempeted to go with those Sanyos, they have built in protection, im assuming they shut down if over discharged and go open circuit if over charged...