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davey t 
Young Croc 
Joined: 11 March 2004 Location: Bristol UK Status: Offline Points: 1428 |
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 Posted: 16 July 2015 at 4:43pm |
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I use car jumper leads... they're the cheapest way to get really thick high current rated cables.
We used those boards for a while. They're good, but it's hard to get a boost converter that's up for the job. Plus you need audio limiters. In the end we cheated and bought a top spec car amp. Pisses all over this sure-hifi diy stuff but a lot more expensive. Have fun!
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Minirig portable soundsystem movement
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b grade
Young Croc
Joined: 05 October 2012 Location: Portland OR USA Status: Offline Points: 1337 |
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Posted: 16 July 2015 at 5:26pm |
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The manual for the Behringer says you can rotate the HF horn to use it as an upward angled floor monitor. That might be best if it has to be carried so low.
Page 5 section 2.1.1 Edited by b grade - 16 July 2015 at 5:27pm |
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Porkstone
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Joined: 21 September 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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Posted: 17 July 2015 at 11:47pm |
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The current plan is to build the amp + booster + pre amp + battery into a case with a micro jack input for a phone/ipod and a neutrik socket for output to the speaker. Later I'll see if I can build a much smaller more portable speaker for holidays that could be used with the amp.
As noted the by a previous poster the berry speaker can be angled like a stage monitor but realistically to get the sound to throw out the mid bass to high freq drivers need to be mounted higher up. Unfortunately a speaker build is not in the budget at the moment but never say never. |
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Porkstone
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Joined: 21 September 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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Posted: 17 July 2015 at 11:49pm |
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Right now I am listening to a Logitech x100 bluetooth speaker and it is rocking in my small study and making me question my own ability to build something that is better :D
go josh wink go  |
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Porkstone
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Joined: 21 September 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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Posted: 19 July 2015 at 3:42pm |
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The prototype is finished I plan to find an appropriately size case and build it all into that.
I think the voltmeter that is measuring the output is toast it briefly lit up then died will have to get another.
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Porkstone
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Joined: 21 September 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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Posted: 19 July 2015 at 9:05pm |
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I was able to test the amp properly today to see how loud it would go, I adjusted the dip switches to the maximum gain and plugged in an ipad directly to the amp it was definitely loud enough. I have ordered a pre-amp that has a high pass filter, I hope this will increase battery life.
The berry is 8 ohms so I think the amp is drawing less than 200 watts from the booster at full volume. After 10 minutes of music the booster and amp were still cool to the touch and the fan amp had not switched on. The amp manual warns against using a pre amp, stating that it might be damaged I was wondering if this is strictly true or if you just have to be careful not to put to much gain into the input?
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amlu
Young Croc
Joined: 30 November 2009 Location: london Status: Offline Points: 740 |
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Posted: 19 July 2015 at 9:19pm |
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Porkstone: can you post a link to the preamp with HPF? Im looking for one myself...
I have sure amp too, feeding it various signals, from a ultradrive or a small mixer. watching the levels every time, maybe if you feed it too much signal at full volume something may go wrong, but not yet for me. nice amp by the way. |
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davey t
Young Croc
Joined: 11 March 2004 Location: Bristol UK Status: Offline Points: 1428 |
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Posted: 20 July 2015 at 12:26pm |
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I'd be careful sticking all that current direct from the battery through that switch.
The voltmeter probably died because it was only rated to 30V
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Minirig portable soundsystem movement
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studio45
Old Croc 
Joined: 16 October 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3864 |
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Posted: 20 July 2015 at 1:08pm |
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+1 you need a surprisingly big switch to reliably break high-current DC. Get a chunky 50A rated one, otherwise it may stick "on" and/or melt if you try to break the connection while drawing a lot of power.
Also, that's not what I meant by orienting the heatsink on the converter board vertical. You want it 90 degrees from where it is now, ie on its side, and bore some holes in the case to allow air to flow up through the fins.
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Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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slaz
Old Croc
Joined: 27 November 2009 Location: London E2 Status: Offline Points: 2713 |
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Posted: 20 July 2015 at 1:26pm |
+1 .... buggered if I can track one down .... |
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REMEMBER....POLITICIANS AND DIAPERS SHOULD BE CHANGED OFTEN AND FOR THE SAME REASON
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davey t
Young Croc
Joined: 11 March 2004 Location: Bristol UK Status: Offline Points: 1428 |
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Posted: 20 July 2015 at 1:57pm |
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There's also inrush current as you charge up those capacitors...this can reach hundreds of amps and cause big sparks on the switch contacts which can fry sensitive circuits.
Most boards have a logic controlled "remote" on/off connection. Failing this, use a p-channel TO-220 mosfet which low RdsON of <10 miliohms. Just pull the gate low to turn on. |
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Minirig portable soundsystem movement
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Porkstone
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Joined: 21 September 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 49 |
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Posted: 22 September 2015 at 9:15pm |
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Thanks for all the additional info.
I will try and find the link to the preamp and post it here soon. |
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amlu wrote: