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Box builders yellow glue

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snowflake View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowflake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2017 at 2:08pm
expanding glue requires you to clamp the joint (even clamping at right pressure) for several hours. PVA you just wack a couple of screws in and the glue pulls the joint together rather than pushing it apart.

joints that glue multiple plys to each other was discussed a few weeks ago.

couple of years ago there's some threads about laminating ply and mdf with flexible sealant, bitumen and other methods of damping panel ringing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Father-Francis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2017 at 4:50pm
Originally posted by SouthwestCNC SouthwestCNC wrote:

thats one way of looking at it. Another way would be to imagine taking an 18.2mm strip of birch hardwood compressing it into 17.7mm thickness (as to match the wood content in compressed ply) and dipping its end grain in a set amount of stain until it had soaked it all up. Now repeat with an exact same size piece of ply and then compare how long it took and how far it penetrated. That will give you a comparison as to it permeability. I wouldn't be at all supprised if the difference was over 50%.

Jo Bee me work with dem glue day in day out , this kind of glue will never go past the first ply , unless we use really cheap plywood, if you want something that goes thru the first ply use normal white wood glue and thin it down abit with water , I've been a carpenter for over 20yrs me knows what me talk about ,
let's not make any sales promotions for stuff that don't work the way one seems,to think ,
https://www.craftsy.com/blog/2015/03/types-of-wood-glue/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dub Specialist Sound Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 April 2017 at 11:54pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SouthwestCNC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2017 at 12:02am
Originally posted by Dub Specialist Sound Dub Specialist Sound wrote:

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/images/articles/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf


There's loads of glue strength tests. None of them are consistent with completely different results. some having an agenda toward pushing a certain product. And none are done with ply so all irrelevant really.

If it passes a drop test happy days.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SouthwestCNC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2017 at 12:08am
Ive got a pu glued mt121 an apprentice made a mess of, I'll make a video lifting it to a good height with the forks tomorrow and dropping it and upload it here.
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WILLZTHRILLZ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote WILLZTHRILLZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2017 at 1:26am
I hope the apprentice won't be standing underneath it lol.
We all  have to learn somewhere. 
Unfortunatley , this country has no more manufacturing ability and kids have no chance of much of a future in traditonal engineering.
More is the pity coz skills  are being lost in one or two generations.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagnasty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2017 at 2:25am
Originally posted by snowflake snowflake wrote:

expanding glue requires you to clamp the joint (even clamping at right pressure) for several hours. PVA you just wack a couple of screws in and the glue pulls the joint together rather than pushing it apart.

joints that glue multiple plys to each other was discussed a few weeks ago.

couple of years ago there's some threads about laminating ply and mdf with flexible sealant, bitumen and other methods of damping panel ringing.

TBH, PU glue has near to no kinectic potential for joint seperartion, I PU and pin a lot of builds, screws are really optional, if you have he time PVA is great, but TBH, is not as strong a PU in shock, Pu cures faster, makes a ridiculously strong bond and if you set your joint correctly (if you need gap fill use Gripfill and HUGE clamps) it only expands to release excess glue.

I would only use the gun product on house bashing, the Joiners Mate screw fix sell is good as it gets, if it cures in the pot, don't keep your glue in  pond!

I machine very tight, the gun PU is too viscous and holds faces apart, generally just DIY spec IMHO (I used on a flat pack kitchen, great, but I would say my leads trunk have better tolerance than that!)

Back on topic, leave your caulking gun on the shelf, make nice parts and buy a small tub of joiners mate....

I don't have lot of experience with it (like only 70L plus used) but it is cheap, works, and works welll..




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SouthwestCNC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SouthwestCNC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2017 at 9:21am
Originally posted by WILLZTHRILLZ WILLZTHRILLZ wrote:

I hope the apprentice won't be standing underneath it lol.
We all  have to learn somewhere. 
Unfortunatley , this country has no more manufacturing ability and kids have no chance of much of a future in traditonal engineering.
More is the pity coz skills  are being lost in one or two generations.
Will


Lol, I wish id though of that before I let him go. Yeah no attention to detail and always in a hurry to get home with no commitment. Now have a 50year old joiner because young lads just don't cut it.
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snowflake View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowflake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2017 at 10:23am
Originally posted by Dub Specialist Sound Dub Specialist Sound wrote:

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/images/articles/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf


I use the Titebond stuff that won that test. It's got a nice nozzle that allows easy application to the edge of boards and it doesn't get blocked with old glue.

the gorilla glue they tested is possibly the worst PU glue I have tried - it foams too much and is very weak.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SouthwestCNC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 April 2017 at 12:21pm
Which titebond tho? In other tests tight bond 1 & 3 scores the same as pva. Only titebond 2 that is any better than your standard pva.. Apparently.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70,s hero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 April 2017 at 10:40am
Some one left a 5ltr of PVA in my van this week with the lid not screwed on, I would post a pic but its too embarassing, I guess PVA and PU have thier advantages, personally I use PU but a good test is how easy both of them can be pulled off your hair on your skin when set.


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kevinmcdonough View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevinmcdonough Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 April 2017 at 12:33pm
Originally posted by snowflake snowflake wrote:

Originally posted by Dub Specialist Sound Dub Specialist Sound wrote:

http://www.oldbrownglue.com/images/articles/HowStrongisYourGlue_FWW.pdf


I use the Titebond stuff that won that test. It's got a nice nozzle that allows easy application to the edge of boards and it doesn't get blocked with old glue.

the gorilla glue they tested is possibly the worst PU glue I have tried - it foams too much and is very weak.

Yeah totally agree with this, quite a few years ago I built a load of cabs with gorilla glue and it was terrible (and I realise gorilla glue may not be representative of all pu glues, other brands may be better),  and after seeing that same report changed to titebond III - night and day. 

Cabs have held up amazingly well not a single issue, and as said the long thin "slit" nozzle it has is perfect for running glue along the edges to be fixed. I wouldn't use anything else now. 

K


Edited by kevinmcdonough - 16 April 2017 at 12:52pm
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