Cab finish/paint

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   Hi Guys.
can anyone recommend a good quality stain/wax that leaves a good protective coating. 

I'm looking for something that leaves a similar finish to linseed oil. something that really brings out the grain of the ply. 

I had planned to use lindseed but on further research i found out that it doesnt dry very tough and being oil based, may actually encourage the growth of mildew in the wood.

or am i just dreaming and cab paint is the only suitable thing?

Thanks people 

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
BlackSad Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List New Member Joined: 05 August 2016 Status: Offline Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote BlackSad Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Cab finish/paint Posted: 24 February 2017 at 10:14pm
	Hi Guys. can anyone recommend a good quality stain/wax that leaves a good protective coating. I'm looking for something that leaves a similar finish to linseed oil. something that really brings out the grain of the ply. I had planned to use lindseed but on further research i found out that it doesnt dry very tough and being oil based, may actually encourage the growth of mildew in the wood. or am i just dreaming and cab paint is the only suitable thing? Thanks people

I-shen Soundboy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 21 December 2016 Location: Big Smoke Status: Offline Points: 375	Post Options Post Reply Quote I-shen Soundboy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 February 2017 at 12:42am
	Teak oil is perhaps a better alternative to boiled linseed, however neither does much for protecting the surface from knocks and dirt. If you want it uncoloured, I'd suggest you seal your sanded wood with shellac first, then either beeswax/French polish, or use a Ronseal type polyurethane varnish if you're ever going to use it. Woodstain, before or instead of shellac, can add colour from subtle tones to bright primary shades: Hannants have a good range, particularly their colours. Expect lots of sanding beforehand and between every coat of varnish. Use lot of coats of varnish. Buy an orbital sander. And more sandpaper. And a mask/extractor. And a very good brush. But it will look better. Edited by I-shen Soundboy - 25 February 2017 at 1:43am

BlackSad Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List New Member Joined: 05 August 2016 Status: Offline Points: 7	Post Options Post Reply Quote BlackSad Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 February 2017 at 7:01am
	Thanks I-Shen. I'll give it shot. Will throw up a pic when finished if i remember too.

eyeT Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 10 April 2016 Status: Offline Points: 71	Post Options Post Reply Quote eyeT Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 25 February 2017 at 10:53am
	I use this where I am, mainly as a protective coating but it looks good also https://www.asianpaints.com/product/wood-finishes.woodtech-melamyne.html a two part clear coat(varnish base & hardener). The first one or two coats soak straight into the wood bringing out the grain and making it very tough. With enough prep' and sanding between coats it will produce a very respectable finish. You can stain the wood first if needed. If you can find like this where you are it's a good option.

markie Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 31 October 2005 Location: Sunny Liskeard. Status: Offline Points: 4570	Post Options Post Reply Quote markie Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 March 2017 at 10:32am
	Have a look at this:- https://www.restexpress.co.uk/acatalog/Rustins_Plastic_Coating.html?gclid=CICk3bng0NICFYu6GwodRkgPVg It's a 2 part clear finish and very hard wearing. Also high build so doesn't require too many coats and each coat dries quite quickly. Using a combination of steel wool and the burnishing cream you can get any finish from matt to a high gloss (piano finish). You can use T-Cut if you run out of burnishing cream. Only down side is WATCH THE FUMES. Good quality ma sk required.
	If it's got wheels or tits it's gonna cost a fortune

I-shen Soundboy Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Registered User Joined: 21 December 2016 Location: Big Smoke Status: Offline Points: 375	Post Options Post Reply Quote I-shen Soundboy Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 March 2017 at 3:49pm
	Mmm, brushable two-pack, very nice find, thanks. Edited by I-shen Soundboy - 12 March 2017 at 3:51pm

colint Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 06 October 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 5227	Post Options Post Reply Quote colint Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 March 2017 at 9:09pm
	Never tried it on speakers but when I did the oak floor in my pub I used a water based sealer called Bonakemi we applied it with a sponge (it was a big floor) it's very easy to apply and set's really quick and you could beat it with a hammer and it didn't seem to mark it at all. not that cheap though at about 70 quid for a gallon but a gallon would last forever it goes a very long way. Edited by colint - 12 March 2017 at 9:10pm
	Never criticise another man until you've walked a mile in his shoes. Once you have, call him what you like, you're a mile away and you've got his shoes!