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Boominator MINI (development thread) |
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Malco 
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Joined: 12 January 2007 Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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 Posted: 24 October 2014 at 12:14pm |
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Also selling 4 new Aurasound NS525s with grills
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mikusLV
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Joined: 01 November 2014 Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: 01 November 2014 at 3:36am |
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Hi!
Take my hat off for Saturnus. I want to search the items online and make calculations about the cost (price+shipping) to Latvia. It would be good to update (lot of newbies would benefit, because cost of this is the first filter) the ITEM LIST (available in shops - new): boominator MINI - 1) Speakers: a) Tweeters: Dayton ND16FA-6 b) Woofers: Aura NS6-255-8A (available?) Shops-> Saturnus: "Blue Aran, Intertechnik, Canopysound, Ljudia, DiscoNetto, HiFiKit (not listed any particular order)" Batteries: LiFePo4 12V? Ampifliers: Crossover filters: Wood: 9mm birch ply This really would help me (and others I hope) to set the puzzle together.
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Tsyphon
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Joined: 06 November 2014 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 06 November 2014 at 5:40pm |
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@mikusLV, this might help from a few pages back.
........... I have started creating a list of things I will need to start my journey to building a mini. I have scoured this thread and alot of the original thread. I'm wondering what other resistors and capacitors are needed besides than those in the x-o. If I recall there needs to be a fuse on the positive pole of the battery rated at 10a, and I believe there is another capacitor needed somewhere to prevent cutting during the bass spikes at high volumes. I also can't remember which thread and how deep I found a few wiring diagrams for the entire completed mini. Also, for anyone else in the US, I just did a lot of searching for x-o parts and the drivers, with different suppliers and shipping calculated, and Accusafe shipped with x-o parts + all 8 drivers + maxamp is just as much as other options if not cheaper than the alternatives. Actually seems cheaper since you're gonna get the maxamp from Accusafe anyways, saving on shipping from multiple places, even if you can get the tweeters for less continental. Edited by Tsyphon - 06 November 2014 at 5:43pm |
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lutkeveld
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Joined: 23 September 2013 Location: The Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 517 |
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Posted: 06 November 2014 at 5:46pm |
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If you are going to use a lithium based battery you won´t need a fuse because it´s already intergrated in the PCM/BMS.
If you are going to use a lead based battery you will need one. I´d recommend a 5A PTC, but a regular fuse will also work. You won´t need more capacitors than those of the XO.
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Saturnus
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Joined: 13 July 2010 Location: Copenhagen Status: Offline Points: 2025 |
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Posted: 06 November 2014 at 6:22pm |
Yup. It's only mind set problem. We've done it for years the other way. Also note that when you buy from outside the EU, you may be able to get the sales tax (VAT) refunded. That varies from country to country in the EU but in the Netherlands where Accusafe is based it's 21%. I don't know the specific conditions for a refund, or even if there is a refund or the sales tax is just set to 0%. The specific conditions should be known to the retailer though.
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WesleyK
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Joined: 24 December 2012 Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Posted: 06 November 2014 at 10:26pm |
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Yep, we dont charge VAT to customers outside the EU. The store should automatically change the prices if you're from outside the EU, or if it didnt it should when you create an account with a country outside the EU set.
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Tsyphon
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Joined: 06 November 2014 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 07 November 2014 at 1:18pm |
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It corrected for no VAT when I entered info to get my estimated shipping cost.
Edited by Tsyphon - 07 November 2014 at 1:18pm |
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Palomino
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Joined: 26 June 2013 Location: Chicago Status: Offline Points: 80 |
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Posted: 07 November 2014 at 1:39pm |
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Just as a follow-up, the LifePO4 battery I had built from BatterySpace is far and away the best battery solution. I think my battery quest is over. This was not cheap, especially considering what you can build them for, but I wish I had gone this route from the start. I spent nearly as much trying out 3 less expensive solutions.
I had them build it with a balancing board and use a LifePO04 charger. Lasts forever. Light. Fits easily. No hassles. Just expensive. I also upgraded to the correct capacitor on the woofer (NS6 build) and it was a significant step up. I haven't been able to play the completed NS6 version against my older 525 version, but I am pretty confident its a big step up in SQ. I definitely feel the Dayton tweeters are much more refined sounding than the Jamos. I'm interested in seeing if the bass plays lower.
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Saturnus
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Joined: 13 July 2010 Location: Copenhagen Status: Offline Points: 2025 |
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Posted: 07 November 2014 at 2:20pm |
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I often say that buying cheap most often ends up costing many times more in the long run. Batteryspace is a long time favorite of mine as they deliver outstanding products and service. I don't use them anymore because there's now European retailers that are equally good (but just as expensive) and then there's the whole international shipping of lithium batteries hassle. Airlines haven't yet realised that lithium based batteries aren't all bombs waiting to happen.
Edited by Saturnus - 07 November 2014 at 2:24pm |
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mikusLV
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Joined: 01 November 2014 Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: 08 November 2014 at 12:13am |
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Thanks a million!
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Tsyphon
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Joined: 06 November 2014 Location: Dallas, Texas Status: Offline Points: 8 |
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Posted: 10 November 2014 at 7:18am |
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Does anyone have a link to a Vista (64bit pref) version of SketchUp? The version I found on Softpedia is 13.0.3689, but it's an older version and cannot open the Mini V2 sketch up linked above a few posts. SketchUp has officially dropped support for Vista so their site doesn't lead to anything useful.
Oh and I remember someone on the main Boominator thread made a large cutting diagram for the original Boominator, did anyone ever make one for the V2 mini? EDIT: I have a construction question as well. I understand it would be best to use a dado joint for the center brace. I have seen people using finger joints for the connections on the faces, but I think I want to maintain a clean look. My grandfather has a large shed with a bunch of woodworking tools, however I am inexperienced and will have to ask my father for help. Any suggestions for joints on the faces?  As a top down view. In addition, would it be recommended to continue the center bracing and the electronic compartments dados into the top and bottom boards, or is this overkill? I don't know what's necessary for strength and what is added complexity with minimal efficiency. Edited by Tsyphon - 12 November 2014 at 10:57am |
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Aterren
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Joined: 14 July 2013 Status: Offline Points: 151 |
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Posted: 12 November 2014 at 12:23pm |
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I would say that as you have drawn the construction it is more difficult than needed but we do this for fun, not simplicity so go for it if you want to! I would find it challenging to get everything to line up perfectly as you have drawn it. Fractions of a mm difference in the location of the dado, for example, will affect the miter.   I built mine with dados for the top and sides (like you have shown for the front inner layer) and dividers. This worked out well. I also substituted a single piece of 12mm ply for the front. This was set into the 6mm box. Next time I will make the 6mm box a bit narrower and will rebate the 12mm baffle to partially sit in the box. This will allow me to put the edge treatments on the 12mm baffle rather than the 6mm top and sides. It will also make it easier to glue up the front panel. 
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lutkeveld wrote: