THAM10 for hifi questions.

Helllo everyone. I got asked by my cousin if i can build him a small subwoofer to go with his hifi( i would not call it hifi)system that he got at his house.He own 2 behringer speakers and the Behringer A500 amplifier,cant recall the model of the speakers for now.He lives in a 5 story building so told me he dont need so much power like an X1,just something to complement the low end of his monitors.I must say i heard 2 THAM12 loaded with PD123ER at a friend powered with inuke and they are incredible.My cousin have room in a corner for 1 small THAM10 and the budget is practically zero.I have an technics amplifier arround to give so i hope to power the monitors with it and the sub with hes amplifier in bridge mode.I got round today to simulate the cheapest drivers for it and i have as a candidate within his budget the Eminence Kappa Pro 10 or the cheapish The box 10 from Thomann. The recomended B&C speakers cost more than double but simms much better. My question is is it worh investing in a better driver or he might get away with a cheaper one.I  got told he will not get much over 250W at using the sub because will be used only for watchin movies. I will get working today to the box but will need to settle on the driver so i can make the baffle right.
All opinions are welcomed.
Thank you.

I wanted to go with something allready tested,as for the drivers i can source them only from thomann,no pretty 10 inch drivers for reflex cabs there,and cant go bigger because of tight space in that corner.What reflex drivers should i be looking for?

This is the best graph i can get using Eminence Kappa pro 10 as cheap alternative.


8 Ohm driver with 1W/1m. I can go with 300W without reaching xmas by the simulator. What you guys think?

If you are going to use a corner of a room for a Bass box, then have a serious look at the Klipsch corner horn speaker designs.

These use the corner of the room as their horn mouth!

Mik

Exceeding Xmax means voice coil has left "sweet spot" of mag field in gap. Xmech means it has hit the end of space to move in.

Basically the coil has left the mag field, so its moving outside of the control of what the coil's field is doing. So for 50W input it is accelerated forwards and backwards by the interaction of the coil with mag field. Above 50W, it is being decelerated by suspension, not emf. Leads to non linear movement of cone, which sounds "poor".

Much as I like the concept of TH designs, for your particular requirement, I would think a reflex design, maybe even using (SWEAR ALERT) a car lo-fi sub driver (/SWEAR ALERT) may get you down to the frequencies you are after. Efficiency is less of a concern, which is what horns, and TH offer.

In another life, where I wear burberry caps, and go "innit" a lot, I have been known to feck with car hi-fi a little.

Typically very stealthy, small, but feckin' loud. Innit Geezer.

For "subs" - really small heavy pieces of plastic with relatively huge magnets and long voice coils attached to them - I like JL Audio. The weight of the cones means they resonate low, and you can stick them in small boxes. Simply throw as many watts as you can at it, and away you go.

Not very clever engineering, but you can achieve some quite musical results, if you apply pro audio cab design. JL are one of the few that actually publish TS for their drivers. Except for the stupidly low sensitivity figures, they offer benefits elsewhere. Essentially down to the priorities of the compromises which is driver design.

I have a 5 channel alpine amp, strapped to a (sealed) box with 2 JL 10" drivers in it. 150W of amp drives them both, and more than loud enough. Other 4 channels of 50W each, drive a little JL concentric 4"+HF driver in rear doors, and JL 3.5"+Hf in the front knee pods. X-over at 130Hz ish, and rattled me along in my J Plate Alfa 33 P4 lovely jubbly. 500W (peak pmpo!!) achieved 120dB+, and didn't make the lights flash.