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PD186's over excursion and hot of Proline 3000

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tcourtneyvincent View Drop Down
Young Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tcourtneyvincent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2014 at 11:03pm
Originally posted by odc04r odc04r wrote:

Few things here you might be confusing.

If drivers are getting hot it is due to the average sustained power. With kick bass you are not getting as much physical excursion as lower frequencies (depending on music played of course but this is likely as a general rule). If the drivers are better cooled by larger excursion (driving more air through the voice coil) then you can see why they might get hot as you have the worst of a situation. Being hot is not necessarily a problem, but you will hit diminishing returns as your coils warm up due to power compression (the coils get more resistive). If they are too hot to touch without burning skin you may want to back off a little, but they are probably ok. Just let them cool down before you start moving them.

Just because your amplifiers are not clipping, does not mean you can't pop a driver due to physical excursion. That depends totally on the driver, the enclosure, the music you play, and the voltage of the signal being applied to the driver.

Ok great thanks, that makes sense. Seems like i need to just be less timid.

I dont understand your last paragraph though. If the peak the amp can provide is 1k per bin, then how can a driver that "supposedly" rated at 2.8k peak exceed it mechanical limit with only 1k especial only being fed 75hz and up... 
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tcourtneyvincent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tcourtneyvincent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2014 at 11:06pm
Originally posted by Andy Kos Andy Kos wrote:

Slight blackening of enamel can be cumulative over year and years of use. There is no way to detect this when you buy a second hand speaker, it just means the driver has been pushed hard on a regular basis, but not quite hard enough to kill it. All it needs is something to finish the job and it will die..
 

Ok thanks, i see why people generally try to go for new drivers or recones!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy Kos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2014 at 11:08pm
Power is very complicated, a driver's power rating is determined by following a specific procedure, with a certain bandwidth of signal, in certain circumstances.

AES rating has a certain crest factor, and it only has to handle the power rating for 2 hours.

Thing is, in real life, you dont play music that has the same bandwidth limited pink noise with a specific crest factor in a 650 litre enclosure, and not many gigs last only 2 hours. The heat builds up over time, so a 5-6 hour gig...

So the published power ratings are a guideline, and arent 'real-life' they just help determine roughly how big a power amp you can put on it.


Edited by Andy Kos - 26 November 2014 at 11:15pm
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tcourtneyvincent View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tcourtneyvincent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2014 at 11:12pm
Originally posted by bitSmasher bitSmasher wrote:

Originally posted by tcourtneyvincent tcourtneyvincent wrote:

We run them 75hz - 180hz so no chance of over excursion there
Are you limiting properly?
Just because an amp has measured at x Watts continuous, doesn't stop it putting out much more than that in a spike

Yep all limited
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy Kos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2014 at 11:12pm
Originally posted by tcourtneyvincent tcourtneyvincent wrote:

Originally posted by Andy Kos Andy Kos wrote:

Slight blackening of enamel can be cumulative over year and years of use. There is no way to detect this when you buy a second hand speaker, it just means the driver has been pushed hard on a regular basis, but not quite hard enough to kill it. All it needs is something to finish the job and it will die..
 

Ok thanks, i see why people generally try to go for new drivers or recones!

I had a set of second hand Nexo PS15s, about 4-5 years old when I got them, and I used them for about another 4-5 years, always limited using the TD Controller and sensible power.

At the end of that time I came to sell them, one of the PS15s had just started to fail with a very slight rub detetcable. The voice coil enamel had simply over time just deteriorated - the coil former was not burnt or distorted, it was purely that the driver had been driven to just within its limits on a regular basis for a long time, slowly but surely destroying the coil.

Most of the time, a second hand driver thats been used sensibly will be absolutely fine. I think you have just been a bit unlucky.

One thing about buying new, at least you know that if you destroy it, it's definitely your fault, and not the fault of the person who owned it before you!




Edited by Andy Kos - 27 November 2014 at 10:05am
just a guy with a warehouse and a few speakers... www.bluearan.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tcourtneyvincent Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 November 2014 at 11:16pm
Originally posted by Andy Kos Andy Kos wrote:

Power is very complicated, a driver's power rating is determined by following a specific procedure, with a certain bandwidth of signal, in certain circumstances.

AES rating has a certain crest factor, and it only has to handle the power rating for 2 hours.

Thing is, in real life, you dont play music that has the same bandwidth limited pink noise with a specific crest factor in a 650 litre enclosure.

So the published power ratings are a guideline, and arent 'real-life' they just help determine roughly how big a power amp you can put on it.

Ok i understand that you cannot just go by facts and figures, its very easy to slip into going by what pieces of paper you read. I guess i under estimated the power this amp is delivering and the temp in which drivers can get to. thanks for your help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArthurG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2014 at 2:45am
Originally posted by Andy Kos Andy Kos wrote:

Its quite normal for drivers to get 'hot' to the touch. A modern driver, with fibreglass coil former and high temperature enamel on the copper wire should be able to cope with atleast 150 degrees celsius, probably more. A lot of that heat will get transferred to the magnet and chassis, so easily reach a temperature that you shouldnt be touching with bare skin.
Andy is right. 
For the enamel thing (also called insulation layer), their grade varies a lot. Crappy 105C (C = degrees Celsius) is used in consumer products like sound stations. HiFi stuff is usually 150C (degrees Celsius). Chinese pro grade is usually TIL based that can handle 180C. Then the good stuff used no by most Western Pro audio manufacturers in their standard range is Polyimide style that can handle 200-220C, depending on the formulation. Finally the mighty grade is IEC that I use on all my products and this one goes up to 250C.
Obviously, knowing that copper can work continuously at 350C, glues up to 400C and fiberglass formers up to 600C, enamel is always the first to burn , so their choice is crucial on the power rating figures. When everything else is equal (especially cooling), going from 180C grade enamel to 250C increases your power handling by more than 40% !!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy Kos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2014 at 9:31am
Interesting information there about the different enamels - I see a lot of burnt out drivers with the coil formers also burning and bubbling up, but you are suggesting up to 600C for the former? Are there different types of fibreglass former also?
just a guy with a warehouse and a few speakers... www.bluearan.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Earplug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2014 at 9:35am
DC on your amp output is not good. Have you checked how much 'a small amount' actually is? And depending on the kind of problem the amp may have, the DC could also vary/increase when being used. Simple to take a multimeter and check that. Any DC will cause a displacement on the speaker and so reduce it´s effective Xlim. That will definitely lead to a shorter life.




Edited by Earplug - 27 November 2014 at 9:36am
Earplugs Are For Wimps!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ArthurG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2014 at 12:25pm
Originally posted by Andy Kos Andy Kos wrote:

Interesting information there about the different enamels - I see a lot of burnt out drivers with the coil formers also burning and bubbling up, but you are suggesting up to 600C for the former? Are there different types of fibreglass former also?
absolutely, they are also many grade of fiberglass, from 300C to 600C temperature resistant. T600, the best grade can be bought from US and Japan.
Same for the glues, the ones suitable for voice coils go from 150C to 400C grade. 10 years ago, you could not get better adhesives than 300C. Technology evolves quickly...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote odc04r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2014 at 1:19pm
Originally posted by tcourtneyvincent tcourtneyvincent wrote:

Ok great thanks, that makes sense. Seems like i need to just be less timid.

I dont understand your last paragraph though. If the peak the amp can provide is 1k per bin, then how can a driver that "supposedly" rated at 2.8k peak exceed it mechanical limit with only 1k especial only being fed 75hz and up... 


What you have to remember is the amount a driver moves in a cabinet at a given frequency depends on how much it is loaded at that frequency. I.e. how much the air contained in the cabinet is acting as a spring pushing it back towards it's rest position.

If you design a reflex with a port tuning frequency of 40Hz, under that frequency the driver becomes unloaded. I.e. as you go under the port frequency then it behaves less like a resonating port and more like a giant air leak. In this case 1W at 20Hz is going to cause more excursion than 1W at 100Hz. But it is the same amount of power (or amplifier voltage swing into a constant load).

So this is why stating that a driver can take 1kW free air relates to only what the voicecoil can take thermally and is nothing more than a rule of thumb when it comes to puttign it in a box. The box changes the game completely. Stating 1kW is also not much help. What you really need to make any useful measurements is a frequency analysis of your source material power. Then you can start making more useful statements about how much power a given box/driver combo can take.

As always the real world is a lot more complex than the numbers marketing people like to put on things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lost eden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 November 2014 at 8:56pm
Originally posted by tcourtneyvincent tcourtneyvincent wrote:

We run them 75hz - 180hz so no chance of over excursion there.

If I've put the numbers into hornresp correctly there's an excursion peak at just over 100Hz, in addition to the one at around 60Hz, so there is still a chance of over excursion when playing 75 to 180Hz?
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