Mitre Joint Help |
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vertx
Young Croc Joined: 14 March 2012 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 578 |
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Posted: 21 July 2016 at 10:24am |
I have my ply cut to size but need some tips on cutting the below angles with a circular saw for this cabinet. Any pointers? I'm going to have a crack this weekend if I can work out the angles properly, just not sure the easiest way to approach it!
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snowflake
Old Croc Joined: 29 December 2004 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 3118 |
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22.5
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bee
Old Croc Joined: 14 June 2011 Location: Middlesex Status: Offline Points: 4553 |
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looks like all angle are as Snowflake said 22.5 degree cuts...
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https://www.elements-audio.com
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herke
Registered User Joined: 04 November 2009 Location: Huddersfield Status: Offline Points: 171 |
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A tricky job with a circ saw! needs to be bang on accurate. Im interested to see how you get on.
If you don't have one already get a digital bevel gauge from ebay. even .5 of a degree out will compound Edited by herke - 21 July 2016 at 11:05pm |
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bee
Old Croc Joined: 14 June 2011 Location: Middlesex Status: Offline Points: 4553 |
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simple with a guide rail setup...
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https://www.elements-audio.com
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vertx
Young Croc Joined: 14 March 2012 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 578 |
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Yep, my saw has a guide rail. Failing that I've used a clamped straight edge before too with this saw.
I'll report back if I have any success with this cab. Planning to put the Volt RVCXD3153 in it and use either a standard pole mount or some sort of U-bracket to mount it on. |
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Mikkel
Young Croc Joined: 17 May 2013 Location: Huddersfield Status: Offline Points: 549 |
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If your painting the cab id just leave top bottom and sides at 90* and cut corners pieces at 45*.
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vertx
Young Croc Joined: 14 March 2012 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 578 |
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Put this one on hold after a day of chasing my tail. Leaving the top/bottom/sides at 90 degrees would have been the way to go maybe
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ceharden
The 10,000 Points Club Joined: 05 June 2005 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 11776 |
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Having some panels cut at 90 and some at 45deg won't work because the edges of the panels will then be different dimensions. Assuming you have 15mm ply, the straight cut edges will be 15mm, the 45deg ones will be 21.2mmm.
What I would recommend is maybe making up a bit of a jig that will hold the panels and the saw guide in the right positions. If you can't measure 22.5deg accurately on the saw, experiment on some scrap, adjusting until two pieces fit together with exactly 45deg angle. Have you cut the back panel? If so, you can use it to offer the first couple of panels up and check they're the right size/angle, then repeat on the rest. Doing mitres like this is slightly harder to do with a handheld circular saw rather than a bench saw but certainly very do-able, especially with a guide rail.
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vertx
Young Croc Joined: 14 March 2012 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 578 |
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Had the angles within .5 deg with the saw but my problem was that the guide rail could only be so close to the blade before they touched. So every cut I would have lost 1mm to .5mm.
By the end of the 8 panels I'd lost a few mm total width per panel and the octagon was then a different size with different angles! I have the baffle and back panel as just square cut outs. |
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ceharden
The 10,000 Points Club Joined: 05 June 2005 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 11776 |
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I guess the lesson to learn for future is not to cut mitred panels to size first, leave them oversize so you've got something to work with.
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