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Budget Soundsystem with Turbosound
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Futendra View Drop Down
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Joined: 28 April 2016
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Points: 276 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Futendra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 February 2017 at 4:13pm
Originally posted by Darkstar Darkstar wrote:

I'd go with a lab copy of an FP14000 instead of double berry amps if I were you. It's double the cost (actually slightly lower) but the amount of headroom you'd get over the bottleneck the berry amps will give you is well worth it.

I have 4 RCF G401's and they are very sturdy drivers, the berry amps give barely enough imo.
You might want to have a read at http://forum.speakerplans.com/behringer-inuke-nu6000-vs-kam-kxd7200-bench-tested_topic69202.html to understand what I'm talking about



The iNUKE NU6000DSP costs 359 euros. So that's really cheap. They're 2x 2200 watts RMS at 4 Ohm.

I think budget-wise it will be better to get those first, and maybe later replace them. (We need something to start doing benefit parties!)


Originally posted by Mark James Mark James wrote:

if you have 2 16ohm drivers on the comps then just one per side is fine just need a bigger amp tbh a 4 channel would handle the tens on two of the channels ie a pair of tens on each
and the other 2 should handle the comps so just need something to do the 15s and the 18s i guess


I don't quite understand this. Can you explain this more clearly?


Edited by Futendra - 24 February 2017 at 4:14pm
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Originally posted by midas midas wrote:

We have 4 tms3's, ours are the mk1's with JBL 2 inch, Fane 10's and 15's.

We run one QSC2002 on the 4 2 inch, one QSC3003 on the 8 10's and a CA18 on the 15's.

In my opinion great boxes. They keep up with 6 double 18's.

Can you tell me what connector is on there? Can't quite figure out if it's AP6 or EP6.

Would it be possible to mod them to have NL8 connectors? Or would that be a waste?
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Originally posted by Futendra Futendra wrote:

The iNUKE NU6000DSP costs http://schema.org/Offer" style="background-color: rgb(251, 251, 253);">359 euros. So that's really cheap. They're http://schema.org/Offer" style="background-color: rgb(251, 251, 253);">http://schema.org/Offer">2x 2200 watts RMS at 4 Ohm.
They pretend to be, but they're not!
We tried to drive 4 pd186 in gsubs (2 drivers a side, 4 ohms) they were clearly underpowered
Did you read the thread Darkstar mentionned? user experience weights way more than constructor specs (especially on the cheap end of the market)
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Originally posted by JBK JBK wrote:

Originally posted by Futendra Futendra wrote:

The iNUKE NU6000DSP costs http://schema.org/Offer" style="background-color: rgb(251, 251, 253);">359 euros. So that's really cheap. They're http://schema.org/Offer" style="background-color: rgb(251, 251, 253);">http://schema.org/Offer">2x 2200 watts RMS at 4 Ohm.
They pretend to be, but they're not!
We tried to drive 4 pd186 in gsubs (2 drivers a side, 4 ohms) they were clearly underpowered
Did you read the thread Darkstar mentionned? user experience weights way more than constructor specs (especially on the cheap end of the market)


According to the topic they can easily handle 1700 Watt output on 2 channels. I wouldn't need much more than that to power 4 RCF LF18G401's, would I?

Edit: Only now realise the topic is about the iNuke NU6000. I would be powering the TMS3's with the iNuke NU4-6000, and the 8 186 horns with 2 iNuke NU6000DSP.


Edited by Futendra - 24 February 2017 at 7:06pm
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They are EP6 and we use them.

Would be simple enough to swap to NL8.

In bass no one can hear you scream!
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What is the best way to distribute power to everything?


Edited by Futendra - 24 February 2017 at 10:36pm
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Also something very practical: How do I go from 1 mono crossover out to 4 amp inputs? Do I need something like the Behringer MX882 Ultralink Pro?


Edited by Futendra - 25 February 2017 at 3:05am
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you never need an active splitter at line level (I've chained 20+ amp racks of the output of an FDS-360) , just passive y splits will be fine, but bear in mind most amps have parallel mono mode so you just feed ch.A and flick the switch and same signal appears on ch.B
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Originally posted by shagnasty shagnasty wrote:

you never need an active splitter at line level (I've chained 20+ amp racks of the output of an FDS-360) , just passive y splits will be fine, but bear in mind most amps have parallel mono mode so you just feed ch.A and flick the switch and same signal appears on ch.B

So I have to connect multiple Y splitters to each other? Sounds like it will affect the quality.
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most amps have an input and a link for each channel. you can just link the out to the next amp you want linked. same as a y-split really.. parallel links.
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Originally posted by cravings cravings wrote:

most amps have an input and a link for each channel. you can just link the out to the next amp you want linked. same as a y-split really.. parallel links.

The iNuke NU6000DSP doesn't have this. I have 1 mono output that would have to go to 4 inputs.
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Originally posted by Futendra Futendra wrote:

Originally posted by shagnasty shagnasty wrote:

you never need an active splitter at line level (I've chained 20+ amp racks of the output of an FDS-360) , just passive y splits will be fine, but bear in mind most amps have parallel mono mode so you just feed ch.A and flick the switch and same signal appears on ch.B

So I have to connect multiple Y splitters to each other? Sounds like it will affect the quality.

how big a system are you planning? for 6 stacks of Flash you connect no amp channels together.

Anyone that says splitting line level balanced signals driving amps (assuming less than 20 amps) passively effect quality is a TOTAL cretin.

How do you thing our D&B users get on, never seen a rack of active splits to jump between their amps and they daisy chain a lot more than on a normal DSP > Amps Cabs rig.
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