KAM Laserscan 1000RGB

People do not generally buy a sound system based on the price. They usually know how many people they want to be able to cover and the type of music they want to play.

Same with lasers. Start with how big a venue you want to be able to do and what sort of content you want to play. Do you just want to throw some beams around, or do you want to project complex graphics, abstracts, etc?


All of this will dictate how much money you might need to spend.

I will respond to your PM when i get a moment with some suggestions but you really need to look at specs in conjunction with each other.

A good rule of thumb when viewing RGB projectors is that the ratios of RGB should be 1:1:1.5 to 2. The 445nm blue is very deep so needs more power to balance, which is why you have 1.5 to 2x the ratio. Also, you can use more green than red up to about 50% as much again and still achieve a nice white balance.

Unfortunately blue is very cheap, so unscrupulous sellers bump overall power figures by putting in 2W of 445, then only 500mW of red and less than that of green (which is the most expensive currently if you go for direct injection diode at 520nm rather than the outgoing and more fragile DPSS heads at 532nm). That will be horribly unbalanced but give highest possible output figures.

Speak to Linna from Laserking she is a member on Photonlexicon got an LK-PD2 from her about 2 years ago, similar to the KAM laser and it's still working perfectly. She has got a new one the LK-PD3 even better than the KAM one I think it's about USD 500

Google for a colour spectrum chart. The nm figures are just the wavelength in nano metres.
At the ends of the visible spectrum the closer you are to UV or infrared, the less visible to the eye it is.
So 462 is brighter than 445 for the same power, just as 640 will be brighter than 650.

I would recommend the N series from Goldenstar. The D range is 'Disco' and the beam specs tend to be big and diverge quickly (look at the red, they say its got divergence greater than 3.5mrad in one axis, thats basically an uncorrected diode and bloody awful!).
The N series have tighter beams because they spend more on correction optics. And tighter beams with higher power density appear brighter (a bit like the difference between Turbo Flashlight and Floodlight boxes). You should also spec what they call 3D mounts as otherwise they come with fixed dichro mounts that are difficult to adjust (and you WILL need to adjust them).

For a half decent beam, look for divergence less than 1.5mrad, maybe up to 2 at a push. Really good lasers have divergence at 0.6mrad or so.

Their NRGB2000 looks ok, albeit over the £1k budget.

Edited by norty303 - 18 December 2014 at 3:51pm