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Rusted magnet recone

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Risc_Terilia View Drop Down
Young Croc
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    Posted: 18 February 2017 at 5:56pm
I've got a PD154 that i'm trying to recone but there's oxidation to the magnet (even looks to be inside the voicecoil gap), will this cause it to fail again immediately or at all?




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Risc_Terilia View Drop Down
Young Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Risc_Terilia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2017 at 5:01pm
We'll I've filled the vociecoil gap with vinegar now so there's no going back 
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70,s hero View Drop Down
Young Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70,s hero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2017 at 7:38pm
use some very fine wet and dry paper wrapped around a thin piece of pastic and clean out he gap, vinegar will just corode it more, oxallic acid in the form of rust remover will clear surface rust but be aware... if you leave any material within the magnetic gap then it may well cause the speaker to fail and very quickly, you need to be able to see that there is nothing at all in the gap, I have used double sided sticky tape to insert in to the gap and then move it around the circumference, do this several times, any metal based material will be stuck to the surface due to the magnet and so it is important to doubke check it is completely clear.
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MattStolton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MattStolton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2017 at 7:59pm
Get the vinegar, and anything else acidic out. Wash/dilute with water....

Dry it thoroughly, but don't heat excessively, as at some high temperature, you will lose all magnetism.
Cool hairdryer, not oven.

Bit of Wd40 can do wonders to prevent further oxidation, but you want nothing left in voice coil gap. Equally, anywhere you want glue to work, you do not want silicone residue from wd40, as it is slippy, so glue won't stick.

Banging in acid to slight oxidation of the zinc/chrome plating is about as bad as you could have done. It will have chewed at the plating, and attacked the metal under it.
Matt Stolton - Technical Director (!!!) - Wilding Sound Ltd
"Sparkius metiretur vestra" - "Meter Your Mains"
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valve head777 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote valve head777 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2017 at 8:06pm
Would a little spray of zinc etch primer be worth trying? Only issue i see maybe heat damaging it, but if corrosion is bad maybe a last ditch chance.
Also, use a bicarbinate solution to neutralize the acid.

Edited by valve head777 - 19 February 2017 at 8:08pm
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ceharden View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ceharden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2017 at 9:11pm
Corrosion doesn't actually look that bad in the original picture.  I'd have just cleaned the gap out to remove any loose material and left it alone.
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Risc_Terilia View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Risc_Terilia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 February 2017 at 10:05pm
Originally posted by MattStolton MattStolton wrote:

Banging in acid to slight oxidation of the zinc/chrome plating is about as bad as you could have done. It will have chewed at the plating, and attacked the metal under it.

Well if that's what it takes to get people to reply...
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nickyburnell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickyburnell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 February 2017 at 3:57pm
Done plenty rusty hf250 with wet and dry and wd40. Always worked.
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