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GS3 to led

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Category: Other Chat
Forum Name: Lighting Talk
Forum Description: All your lampy, laser and 'other' special FX needs....
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=97027
Printed Date: 19 April 2024 at 5:43am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: GS3 to led
Posted By: Steve20131
Subject: GS3 to led
Date Posted: 04 November 2016 at 1:30pm

A few parts for the 500w GS3 conversion including a fiat punto radiator.  May take some time,  will post pics as it goes 



Replies:
Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 12 February 2018 at 8:32am
This is one of the golden scan 2's.  Now 300w led.  As it's so cool I may upgrade to 4-500w,  a well designed heatsink will fit in there and still be way cooler than halide.  A lux meter is on the way...


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 12 February 2018 at 8:35am
I may remove the collimator lens to see if more light can be concentrated through the gate


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 12 February 2018 at 8:45am
Base temp after 15 minuites.  Well below what I expected.  If I can get a 500w chip with 3-400 thermal watts dissipation down to that temp I will be well pleased.  Full 100,000 hours minimum which is the aim.  Pro light (apparent 1200 hid replacement) puts out 4000 lumens (not lux) at 5m/15 degrees so if I can equal that I'll be happy.  Especially without using water cooling.  Although secretly I would expect to thrash that, even with ordinary glass lenses 



Posted By: Bams
Date Posted: 12 February 2018 at 9:27am
Nice ! good to see people still care for (in my opinion) THE fixture which defined lighting for the rave scene (the strobeflowe comes to mind but never really took off over here at the mainland). is this purely a "because I can" idea or are you converting an complete shed of goldenscans? now older fixtures are so cheap it seems like the first option. 


Posted By: James Tengo
Date Posted: 12 February 2018 at 9:28am
How sharp are your gobos? Bright is one thing, even beam and crisp gobos are another...


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 12 February 2018 at 11:00am
Yes,  but thats done by the front focus lens and even beam is a problem for smaller point source hid bulbs,  larger sources have the opposite problem however far easier to deal with..


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 12 February 2018 at 11:30am
I suppose it's because I can,  I refuse to pay hard earned money for a 2000hr bulb!  Especially when times wasted making up chases etc.  

Theres not quite a shedload,  just 4 gs2's and a HPE.  I'll add more pics when the hpe 500w is done


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 16 February 2018 at 3:55pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 16 February 2018 at 3:58pm
Finding large cob heatsinks for less than $250 is quite difficult pluss they wont fit the enclosures.  This is 6mm plate and server coolers,  theres two more 150mm ones for the other side (with the led on).  I may also replace the outer case fans for lighter 12v ones the cast ac ones are heavy


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 16 February 2018 at 4:06pm
Pro lights 'luma' uses water cooling.  I did consider but it's about the same price and I don't trust water being around.  Also if the internal pump goes you cannot see it

..if the internal fans stop at least the draw from the external ones is enough to prevent faliure.  I suppose with moving heads weight is a factor..


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 February 2018 at 8:30pm
It's taken nearly a year and a half to get this far?
(Not knocking it)

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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 18 February 2018 at 9:21am
Dont worry,  doing it properly always takes longer


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 20 February 2018 at 8:23pm
,


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 20 February 2018 at 8:24pm
Now has led power supply


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 20 February 2018 at 8:25pm
,


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 20 February 2018 at 8:27pm
Lining up heatsink baseplate just temporarily..


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 20 February 2018 at 8:33pm
I had put the smaller step down transformer in the bin but it turns out the boards are ac,  otherwise I would have replaced with smps,  uh oh so had to figure out where all the wires went...

....hey first time and no bangs :o)


Posted By: djeddie
Date Posted: 21 February 2018 at 6:50pm
Originally posted by Steve20131 Steve20131 wrote:

..hey first time and no bangs :o)


Always a bonus!

Just a quick question... where are you sourcing the LED's?


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Chas n Dave : it's like Drum and Bass but with beards.             E=mc² ±3dB


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 22 February 2018 at 10:04pm
Aliexpress or ebay,  whichever is cheaper.  There may be uk suppliers too such as rs...  Remember to get the smps power supplies that have voltage adjust (most do).  I find that by reducing the power a little bit only a tiny amount of light is sacrificed for 20-30 degrees less base temp.  I think on the next fixture I will fix a tool to the adjuster so it can be easily accessed..


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 22 February 2018 at 10:48pm
The two i bought came with spare pots. If yours did perhaps you could remote mount that?


Posted By: djeddie
Date Posted: 23 February 2018 at 7:21pm
Originally posted by Steve20131 Steve20131 wrote:

Aliexpress or ebay,  whichever is cheaper.  There may be uk suppliers too such as rs...  Remember to get the smps power supplies that have voltage adjust (most do).  I find that by reducing the power a little bit only a tiny amount of light is sacrificed for 20-30 degrees less base temp.  I think on the next fixture I will fix a tool to the adjuster so it can be easily accessed..

Thumbs Up Thank you!


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Chas n Dave : it's like Drum and Bass but with beards.             E=mc² ±3dB


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 23 February 2018 at 8:49pm
These ones came without pots but if future ones do its a handy idea.  Having the led's on low light is handy for setting up the focus range,  it's blinding without even directly viewing


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 2:48pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 2:49pm
They really need a thermometer for hotter ambient temps


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 2:50pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 2:51pm
All done,  was rather tricky.  The sensor just needs milling into the heatsink close to the aluminium base as possible


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 2:53pm
I have also used some wire wool on the chrome fan covers,  they came up really well....


Posted By: IainB
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 3:43pm
Im inspired, have 6 mini scans here that need a good going through (WAY too many projects on my hands atm)


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 5:13pm
Well dome that man!! I love you have thrown yourself into this and just kept hacking away until you got where you needed to be. I hope the end result is all you believe it will be... and keep us all posted we love pics of the fun you're having

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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 8:13pm
Thanks guys.  It is fun and rewarding,  I'll try and take pics but I often forget in between bits


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 8:17pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 8:17pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 8:19pm
The second photo I took with the flash on as it doesnt come out as it looks.  The edges are clean and I'm pleased.  This is the 300w (575 replacement) 


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 8:20pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 8:29pm
After 40 mins it settled on 54.6 on full brightness.  The sensor is mounted right on the led aluminium base. The led die (part where electrons cross) is approx 70 degrees,  way below the 150 degree maximum.  The 100,000 hour lifetime spec is typically when the aluminium base is kept below 85 so it should last forever




Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 24 February 2018 at 8:30pm
Had to be done in the house as it wouldnt go above 23 degrees outside...


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 25 February 2018 at 9:48pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 25 February 2018 at 9:49pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 25 February 2018 at 9:51pm
Prism rotating wheel.  Cleaned and ran oil through until it ran clear.  Also did the same with other gobo holders and focus assembly.  May not be the clay paky recommended lubricant however,  3 in 1..

Not as fussy as I would like for all jobs but alot tidyier than before.  Also used epoxy neatly on prisms, removed the over enthusiastic use of silicone sealant that had been used in the past..


Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 26 February 2018 at 11:10am
Keep up the good work steve.

Following this thread with interest as i imagine lots of others are too.

Jon


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 26 February 2018 at 8:09pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 26 February 2018 at 8:09pm
All clean and back together


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 26 February 2018 at 8:10pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 26 February 2018 at 8:11pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 26 February 2018 at 8:12pm
The only colour I could find was grey for the grills,  although they are a bit too far gone,  rust and damage wise




Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 26 February 2018 at 8:19pm
The picture above is the gs2,  the camera doesnt show but edges are clean & the focus will go from 180 feet down to 4

Can't really test more until the lux meter gets here and I can see where the best places for the lenses to be (Led right against collimator,  just inside focus point or at focal point)...

Also waiting for 60 degree lens,  might catch more light..


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 February 2018 at 12:31pm
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Switching-Power-Supply-350W-60V-output-60VDC-input-90-132VAC-180-264VAC-Nema34/162414107815?hash=item25d0a29ca7:g:wgkAAOSw6aVUoglR" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Switching-Power-Supply-350W-60V-output-60VDC-input-90-132VAC-180-264VAC-Nema34/162414107815?hash=item25d0a29ca7:g:wgkAAOSw6aVUoglR

May try this supply for the next 500w.  Do some lux tests,  I think it may be surprising efficiency wise..


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 28 February 2018 at 7:31pm

Technician at work,  do not disturb.   Highly organised stuff


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 28 February 2018 at 7:34pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 28 February 2018 at 7:35pm
I decided for the next fixture to completely dismantle it.  It wasnt much more time and I can get to all the parts much easier and paint everything..


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 28 February 2018 at 7:36pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 28 February 2018 at 7:36pm






Posted By: RoadRunnersDust
Date Posted: 28 February 2018 at 11:05pm
following

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www.guildfordcablecompany.co.uk" rel="nofollow - www.guildfordcablecompany.co.uk


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 01 March 2018 at 10:46am


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 01 March 2018 at 1:51pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 01 March 2018 at 7:28pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 01 March 2018 at 7:31pm
Tested all the channels on the Jands and all work perfectly and the mirror.  I wasn't sure about this one,  it did need a wire soldering back on.  Also glued terminal block on top of the drop down transformer ready for more fans and smps...


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 01 March 2018 at 7:32pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 01 March 2018 at 7:35pm
I have decided to upgrade all remaining GS2's to 500w led and depending on tests use smaller psu's...



Posted By: IainB
Date Posted: 01 March 2018 at 8:19pm
Fancy doing my minis after Wink


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 01 March 2018 at 8:38pm
Ha if I have time,  I may be back to work soon then they will get shelved again..will see.   If it's just mini's 150w led will suffice.  You can use deep cool cpu coolers for those. 

Do you have a spare one so you can strip one down in the house and still have a set?


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 02 March 2018 at 3:03pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 02 March 2018 at 3:07pm
Parts of the next scanner.  This one did control the colour wheel a bit funny and I noticed some of the caps are blown.  You cant see well from the photo. I've ordered a bunch 1000uV 25v so will replace them,  see how it goes  


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 03 March 2018 at 8:17pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 03 March 2018 at 8:26pm
60 degree lenses came today.  Though cheap from china I'm impressed with the finish also their meniscus,  concave on the rear which is very good,  will lose less light and give a cleaner focus than plano-convex.  Though that's not what I ordered...


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 03 March 2018 at 8:27pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 03 March 2018 at 8:29pm
This one has an experimental 200w led so may just use this unit for colour changer,  see how it compares with the 5's or sell it


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 03 March 2018 at 8:33pm
The nearer section looks shinier,  it was so cold that I had to thin the paint down and it came out glossy.  Still alot better than before.  It was a salvage from a shed.  Although the outside was all rusty the pcb's inside were like new :o)



Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 04 March 2018 at 8:10am
Hi guys, have to work for a while now but when I get back should have enough parts here to get the 500w fired up.  Also the lux meter will be here,  do some real life photometrics...


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 04 March 2018 at 8:32am
I've ordered one of these ::


Its a tir lens big enough for the 500w led.  I'm unsure if it has any aberration in the light bad enough to make gobo problems,  from spec sheets it's apparent there are incident angles but from an efficiency standpoint it's definitely worth a try.  Maybe someone with optic experience will know...


Posted By: IainB
Date Posted: 06 March 2018 at 9:33pm
Originally posted by Steve20131 Steve20131 wrote:

Do you have a spare one so you can strip one down in the house and still have a set?

Missed this... I have 6 of them, they dont go out as I have other smaller scanners that currently suffice. For my 'master plan' im working towards I aim to run 4 (having 2 spare) but having them LED will massively help with power consumption. I can find my way around...but at the moment totally in the dark about what I need to progress


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 11 March 2018 at 9:17am
Hi when I get a chance I'll go through it and check around. I remember a guy converted some mini scans years ago very well. He used a home cnc to make a made to measure heatsink. Think it was just 100w chip..


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 11 March 2018 at 9:19am
For the scans I've also ordered another 500w chip but in warm white. I want to see any difference. (4000k). The lumens is still plenty


Posted By: IainB
Date Posted: 12 March 2018 at 1:09pm
Originally posted by Steve20131 Steve20131 wrote:

Hi when I get a chance I'll go through it and check around. I remember a guy converted some mini scans years ago very well. He used a home cnc to make a made to measure heatsink. Think it was just 100w chip..
 
I know who you are talking about, Ive jumped on his post over on the BlueRoom Wink feeling a bit more comfortable about this now, though still WAY too many projects that im not making progress on!


Posted By: monkeypuzzle
Date Posted: 13 March 2018 at 10:48pm
This thread is amazing, you are doing a sterling job there and making me really regret selling my Stage Scans all those years ago, full cmy with an LED chip would be really interesting to see. I do remember talking to someone that had a mate with a shipping container full of old Claypaky scans... I think it was out in Spain or Portugal though.

Actually, maybe I could do this to my Trackspots...... need to work out how to make the dimmer work as its electronic on them...


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blah blah blah blah blah......


Posted By: monkeypuzzle
Date Posted: 13 March 2018 at 10:51pm
Also, be interesting to know how much these things now weigh, never fun wrangling one at the top of a set of Zargees.

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blah blah blah blah blah......


Posted By: James Tengo
Date Posted: 14 March 2018 at 2:19am
Spigot and frotty or gtfo


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 14 March 2018 at 4:04am
Originally posted by James Tengo James Tengo wrote:

Spigot and frotty or gtfo



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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: monkeypuzzle
Date Posted: 14 March 2018 at 12:33pm
Ha, I'd put those memories into a dark place along with single hand dragging one up a set of zargees on to the roof of Pontins for some Smirnoff branding at Southport Soul as the rain smashed down. Got to be lighter than that with an LED in them. Gosh I miss scanners, nothing beats the red and blue dichro gobos and there's never been a flat line or tunnel like the GS ones....

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blah blah blah blah blah......


Posted By: monkeypuzzle
Date Posted: 16 March 2018 at 6:50pm
Steve, can you recommend an adhesive to stick LEDs to a heatsink? Something with a bit more solidity than just thermal compound?

Cheers.


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blah blah blah blah blah......


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 16 March 2018 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by monkeypuzzle monkeypuzzle wrote:

Steve, can you recommend an adhesive to stick LEDs to a heatsink? Something with a bit more solidity than just thermal compound?

Cheers.

Screws.... tapped.


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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: monkeypuzzle
Date Posted: 17 March 2018 at 1:57pm
No screw mounts on the LEDs. I've been set an interesting challenge of pulling apart some DB4 Mk1's and converting to individual cells. Pretty sure I can get it to work, just unsure if it'll need forced cooling for the heatsink and how far I can extend the drive current out of the block to the external cells. Cutting the heatsink to four tonight, I'll be pulling the dies off the drive board when I find my solder mop, just need a sturdy solid setting transfer compound.

Sorry for the hijack, will start a thread if this goes anywhere.




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blah blah blah blah blah......


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 17 March 2018 at 5:11pm


Mount them like this 1st...



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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: monkeypuzzle
Date Posted: 17 March 2018 at 7:28pm
I'm not getting boards made up with tracks on initially as this is just a test and I don't currently have the facilities. I plan on using a sheet of PCB with holes cut in the same spaces with the non copper side face up as a spacer to give the gap that they currently have. I've cracked them off of the heatsink so i can split that up, once I've found a solid setting adhesive (like the one that is on the heatsink now) I can get this moving on and hard wire them to a flying lead with a 4 pin xlr and a socket sitting in the block where the lens was.




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blah blah blah blah blah......


Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 18 March 2018 at 2:13am
https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-5g/dp/B0009IQ1BU" rel="nofollow - https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-5g/dp/B0009IQ1BU



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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 26 March 2018 at 8:35pm
Hi,  sorry for late replies.  I drilled the baseplates through and used m2 bolts and copper grease/aluminium paste.  Alumimium does'nt last that long if you tap it and have to remove them a few times while you work on it.  Lux meter has come so can do some tests soon...

Good to see you all working on stuff keeping old units going



Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 26 March 2018 at 8:38pm
Originally posted by IainB IainB wrote:

Originally posted by Steve20131 Steve20131 wrote:

Hi when I get a chance I'll go through it and check around. I remember a guy converted some mini scans years ago very well. He used a home cnc to make a made to measure heatsink. Think it was just 100w chip..
 
I know who you are talking about, Ive jumped on his post over on the BlueRoom Wink feeling a bit more comfortable about this now, though still WAY too many projects that im not making progress on!

I know,  I've sold an old project car to get these out the way...


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:25pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:26pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:27pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:29pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:29pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:37pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:46pm
This is a 200w cold white chip.  The first colours and open white are in low power mode (last forever mode) the last white is full 200w.

Initially I was very dissapointed but after some head scratching I realised that the light meter went x10 / x100 automatically, and it was in x100 mode,  so heres the results
 
Low power
0 distance 7520   Lux
5m  1880   Lux

High power
0 distance  11280 Lux
5m 2820   Lux

The last photo shows the meter in x100 does'nt register ambient light


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:48pm


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 3:51pm
These lights as far as I know have the standard lens.  I'd personally be very happy with 300w and to me makes them very useable however I will try for 350-500w.  Alot of heatsink design to do first....and welding goggles to set the lenses up


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 4:30pm
All new caps.  They're all different heights because I though it made it more vintage looking

And the brown wires were already done when I got it.  All the channels work perfectly now except the colour which hesitates


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 5:11pm
I think maybe another few lumens could be grabbed on that fixture by using a bigger primary lens and having it a little further away from the led.  I figure for the 4/500 watt units with a 5" plano-convex lens 6200 lux (5m) would be a good expectation,  and little to be improved on


Posted By: Steve20131
Date Posted: 27 March 2018 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by monkeypuzzle monkeypuzzle wrote:

Ha, I'd put those memories into a dark place along with single hand dragging one up a set of zargees on to the roof of Pontins for some Smirnoff branding at Southport Soul as the rain smashed down. Got to be lighter than that with an LED in them. Gosh I miss scanners, nothing beats the red and blue dichro gobos and there's never been a flat line or tunnel like the GS ones....

Will do some weigh in's...would'nt want to be karting a 1200 up on my own!!



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