Here are some build pics of my new TH-18 sub's.

Side panels:

Nice internal view:

First one done:

Both done:

Paint job:

I assembled the cabs yesterday.

Doing measurements is on the agenda.

First I want to build two front loaded mid-highs (12/1.4).

And they can be felt real easy ,with just 490 Watt on them.

I've got a calibrated Behringer ECM8000 as a mic.

But not with the BMS.. In germany somebody used the RCF ND950 driver.

The RCF will save me allot of money, almost 600,-

They would do the job for the PM90 but there aren't many suitable horns.

The 2230 can be used down to 700 Hz, so it would be on the edge..

I dont have any experience with the 2230.

I do however with the 2236, its larger 60x40 brother.

(Big) 2'' CD horns are very rare in make, and probably one of the reasons why the PM90 uses the 1.4'' version instead of the 4592 (which is considerably cheaper).

Thanks for the reply! Both the 2236 and JBl 2380 are to wide for my application.

If the 2230 won't do the job, I will look further for a pair of 4594 (and I know they are hard to find )

u are welcome to drop by, and smaart your baby :)

That was my first though also, but time being limited I couldn't get it right.

Now I am really hoping to have some time for the mid/high's. 

At the moment the "to-do-list" is VEEEEERRRRRYYY long 

Getting some training at time and phase alignment is on of them! This goal of the project is to have a nice sounding system, and I am also confident that can be doable. Ofcourse I have to learn lots of things, but that is never a bad thing!

Thanks for the offer!  I will remember it.

The cabinets are almost done (but are already in use). In the future the plan is for some other grilles (TH-18's also). The bottom bolts will be replaced with black ones.

Hopefully I have time to get started with the measuring part, but that will take some time.

I am also started with the next project (something like the d&b c4 cabinets).

Did some measuring today, and for the first time it's not to bad.

12NW76:

1200 Hz, 12dB/Oct butterworth

0,500 ms delay (was a guess)

DE800

1200 Hz, 12dB/Oct butterworth

Under 300 Hz it's really bumpy, but is very dependent of the position in the room

And another pic with the phase response.

measurements took place in a small room, so the plots are not fantastic.

@gen0me

TH-18's are loaded with the 18SW115-8 and later on with the 4 Ohm version (because there is a QSC PL380 on the way ). Tops are loaded with; B&C 12NW76 and the DE800 on a ME90 horn. 

For now the mid/highs are run by two DAP TAS 2400 amps with a XP3060 for the processing.

And SMAART training is in the agenda (October).

 

Does anyone have a nice adress? I'm looking for honey cone cutouts (or round if not possible).

The plan is to have te same grill for the TH-18 and the mid/high.

Thanks for the link!

I also had some time to do a outside measurement, but couldn't do al the things I wanted to do..

They sound much better already, next step will be measuring them with the TH18's.

After that (will take some time)  a SMAART course by probably Timo Beckman.

It has tot have a small frontal area (as wide as the TH18) so 571x571 is the target.

I simulated it as a reflex cab, but I can imagine that there can be a bandpass effect?

Cab is tuned at 43 Hz, and I am planning to go with a push pull configuration.

Topview:

(line's are a little bit crooked because of the conversion by dropbox)

This is still a quick sketch and with this arrangement, it will be a little hard with fitting the drivers.

Maybe get rid of the two front parts that are 10 cm wide, then the slot will be a little bit shorter.

I also need a smaller cab for the smaller gigs, sure I can build a random cabinet, but it would be nice if the hole system could be used together. 

Just a single 15" reflex is still an option, tuned at 40 ish Hz or so.

It is definately not cheap, but it is a must for me .

I'm thinking of mounting the grill on the top woth some strong magnets or something. 

Any thoughts?

Grill TH18:

Main thing is that they have to be drawn in a CAD program of some sort (which just cost time).

Any tips or tricks?

I haven't tried this but I've seen recommendations on other fora to spray the glue on the foam first (not the grille), wait a minute or two so the glue is less liquid, then press it onto the grille.

Only thing I'm not sure about is the foam behind the grill. 

I see that many other brands use not the standard speaker foam (something like the stuff on D&B C4 and stuff).

Has anybody some suggestions?

I mean not the stuff like D&B C4, but something like meyer sound uses on lina.

Hard to tell but that looks more like a woven fibre rather than a foam - something like (a more upmarket version of) one of these: http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON129240&browsemode=category" rel="nofollow - http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=MON129240&browsemode=category or http://www.terralec.co.uk/covering__lining/nylon_fret_material/17060_p.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.terralec.co.uk/covering__lining/nylon_fret_material/17060_p.html or https://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_0715.htm" rel="nofollow - https://www.thomann.de/gb/adam_hall_0715.htm perhaps?

I got advised to use white wood glue, and apply it with a paint roller. But It won't stay on..

I used the "quick dry version" (had it laying around) but it doesn't' work.

Biggest problem with the standard glues for the foam, is that they heave leftovers that you can see through the frill, and that would be really unfortunately.

Does anyone have tips or tricks?

I'm very happy with the cabs yes! The only thing I would do differently the next time is the paint.

As said before (many times on forums) spraying gives the nicest effect (my opinion).

But that can be done in the future, when they need a new coat .

+1 

First is a new (more) compact cab, probably reflex.

At the moment I used Bison glue, looks allot like the scotchweld stuff. 

I applied the same as you said, but still keeps coming lose when I turn it up a little.

  

About to start a build of basically the same boxes -I'm going with the Faital Pro 18HW1070 drivers... Just a set of 2 to start.

Now I did it with a roller, but spraying gives a more professional finish.

Happy with the output? -How much power ya throwing at them? 

What drivers did you use? 

Are there any specific types used for this application?

So the current amprack is up for sale.

The current top cabinets will be replaced with new ones.

With larger internal volume, and more port area.

Also a beefier low/mid driver (probably MB12N405), high driver probably a ND950 (1.4) or maybe a BMS coax, on a HF950 horn.

They will be weighing more, but I hope to keep it under 27 Kg's.

I see a lot of those airles spraygun things, and I was wodering if this would work with warnex.

Or that I just buy a compressor with a spraying gun. The goal is to get the nice pro splatter finish.

The new cabs are almost finished, again cnc cutting which saves me a lot of time.

Low/mid will be the BMS 12N803, mid/high --> BMS 4594 on the RCF HF950.

Total weight of one cab would be +-25 kg (powered).

Also much bigger port area then the last build, almost 300% more.

I bought a secondhand "D&B C7" like system, it uses a hornloaded 15" and a BMS 4554 coaxialy mounted as mid/high. And Hybrid subs for the bass section, it's design looks like the acoustic line TSE sub, but is a bit bigger (they also go lower). 

I'm currently using two crown I-tech 4000's for the setup, they are both checked and services by crown, so I'm not afraid for failure.

i'm planning on using the DIY mid/highs for the summer (and probably a bit longer).

Also a pic of them with the new grill:

Why did I sell the TH18's? They did not really suit my needs, most of the gigs are not that big, and two smaller subs would suffice. Also when it gets bigger, the current setup would not be capable enough (now it is).

I currently started testing (and doing some measurements) with the new set up, I'm now confronted with a new problem  

Set up:

4X Hybrid sub

2X C7 like top

Today I did some testing and managed to do a few measurements (with REW).

Between 600 and 1kHz there is clearly some trouble, there are also about 3 phase wraps at that point.

I self think this problem is caused by the rather big horn on de compression driver (BMS 4554 and XR1464). Low-mid is covered by a BMS 15S320. At this pic there is some EQ on the setup, I was stupid enough to NOT save the other measurements, but they al have the same problem at the give frequency.

Distance from cabinet: 2m

Hight of measurement: ~1,70m (stacked on two subs)

I know this one pic is not really usefull to get some conclusions, but maybe somebody already encountered this problem.

Approximally 40m from a (busy road).

Easier and better if you only have a couple of cabs to do is: u pol raptor truck bed liner and buy the gun with it. Not cheap but then you only have to buy a compressor. No pot needed plus you get a two part solvent paint finish. 

This is a common problem with boxes that have coaxially mounted HF. Reflections from the HF horn back is what is causing those dips.

Solution is to either use different HF driver that you can cut lower (ideally at around 600Hz) or you can try and attach some sort of foam (sponge) at the back of the HF horn and lower the reflections.