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What exactly does H+H- mean on 3 way crossover?

Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: General
Forum Name: General Forum
Forum Description: Open Discussion / Questions
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=98081
Printed Date: 19 April 2024 at 7:43am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: What exactly does H+H- mean on 3 way crossover?
Posted By: nicr
Subject: What exactly does H+H- mean on 3 way crossover?
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 12:54am


I bought 2 new 3 way crossovers for my speaker set. I wired the woofer to the W+ W - of the crossover as well as the tweeter to the T+ T- and the mid range to the H+ H-.(the pos and neg terminals on the crossover are in this order, HH,TT,WW). The woofer and tweeter sound perfect and are loud in volume, the 10" woofer im using as a midrange is very low and faint in volume(but sounded far louder when wired to Midrange of my older crossover). What does H H mean on a 3 way crossover?, is it for midrange or ? I did a test and wired the tweeter to the H H, and the volume was also very low and faint but loud on T T, anyone have an idea why? What does H H stand for? Cant find answer on google search. Heres the specs for the crossovers-3-way passive crossover 8 ohm Woofer Frequency: 20Hz-500HzMidrange - 500HZ-4.5KHZTweeter - 4.5KHZ-20KHZ600 watts RMS/1200 watts peak each














Replies:
Posted By: Conanski
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 2:08am
Need pictures of both sides of the crossover.


Posted By: nicr
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 2:49am



Posted By: nicr
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 3:03am




^Above is the crossover. Cant find pix of back and dont have camera. I wonder if this new crossover is defective or the H H terminal is 3/4 burnt out? Or is that the way H H is supposed to sound-its very low in volume and faint when mid or tweeter is wired to it and wat does h h stand for? if anyone has an idea, thanks.








Posted By: nicr
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 3:51am
edit....


Posted By: wayward91
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 9:08am
stick the mid driver on it for testing and figure it out ? less likely to damage it . No idea , perhaps means something in another language ? ... If you read them upside down it could almost read M L H ?


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 9:34am
Yes, swap mid and top (tweeter to H and mid to T) and see what happens.




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Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: nicr
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 2:31pm




Originally posted by Earplug Earplug wrote:

Yes, swap mid and top (tweeter to H and mid to T) and see what happens.
Yes i switched mid range with tweeter(wired mid range to T+T- and tweeter to H+H-) and the mid range sounds much louder and tweeters very low in volume, this proves its not my midrange speaker but the H H thats sending very low volume. The h h of this crossover may be faulty or 3/4 burnt out. AND by the pix and specs of this crossover pair, are they 8 ohms each or 4 ohms? and is it 6 db or 12 db?


Posted By: 4D
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 3:32pm
Not sure if this is helpful but the U.K convention colour coding for wiring signal from crossover to amp racks is

Red = Low
Yellow =Low Mid
Green = High Mid
Blue = High


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DMZ. "The bass was intense. Girls were literally running up to stand next to the subs"


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 4:39pm
Originally posted by nicr nicr wrote:





Originally posted by Earplug Earplug wrote:

Yes, swap mid and top (tweeter to H and mid to T) and see what happens.
Yes i switched mid range with tweeter(wired mid range to T+T- and tweeter to H+H-) and the mid range sounds much louder and tweeters very low in volume, this proves its not my midrange speaker but the H H thats sending very low volume. The h h of this crossover may be faulty or 3/4 burnt out. AND by the pix and specs of this crossover pair, are they 8 ohms each or 4 ohms? and is it 6 db or 12 db?


What about the frequencies? Can you notice the different bands? Do they sound right? Maybe you should just send the xover back and get your money back.




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Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: nicr
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 5:06pm


Originally posted by 4D 4D wrote:

Not sure if this is helpful but the U.K convention colour coding for wiring signal from crossover to amp racks is 
Red = Low Yellow =Low Mid Green = High Mid Blue = High 
The blue wire as picture of crossovers show is wired to H, which is supposed to be mid, but as you pointed out blue is for highs. I did contact seller and he said H H is for high midrange, T T is for tweeter. The freqs for W and T sound perfect, for H it sounds good on mid range but very faint, H wired to tweeter sounds slightly higher pitched than when tweeter is wired to T but very faint. TO MAKE MATTERS WORSE the white retangular item on crossovers get extremely hot like its ready to burn. It must be faulty, time to ask for a refund. 




Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 5:54pm
"TO MAKE MATTERS WORSE the white retangular item on crossovers get extremely hot like its ready to burn. It must be faulty, time to ask for a refund. "

That is a 20W ceramic resistor and will get hot under normal use, but yes, no point messing around, just get a refund.





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Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: APW
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 7:16pm
I've just found that crossover on ebay....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PASSIVE-3-WAY-CAR-HOME-AUDIO-CROSSOVER-EMB-PROFESSIONAL-CX-10-2400W-MAX-PAIR-/231828072722

Features:

    Two EMB Professional 4 or 8 ohm crossovers
    Frequency ranges:
    Woofer Frequency: 20Hz-500Hz
    Midrange - 500HZ-4.5KHZ
    Tweeter - 4.5KHZ-20KHZ
    600 watts RMS/1200 watts peak each 2400 Peak for Pair


600watts RMS LOL



Posted By: AJordan
Date Posted: 17 March 2017 at 11:02pm
I would hazzard a guess that it actually says L M H as mentioned already. If you connect H to a midrange driver it would sound fainter as there will be less power being sent to the highs. I would connect your woofer to L........ or T as it reads. Your mid to M............or w. And your high to H. See how it sounds then.


Posted By: nicr
Date Posted: 18 March 2017 at 1:27am



Originally posted by Earplug Earplug wrote:

"TO MAKE MATTERS WORSE the white retangular item on crossovers get extremely hot like its ready to burn.It must be faulty"That is a 20W ceramic resistor and will get hot under normal use, but yes, no point messing around, just get a refund.
The white resistors get extremely hot to the touch(will cause a burn to finger if held for certain short time) smelling a bit after 20 or 30 minutes of play. Is this normal or will they burn out soon? I imagine they will or wont and you did mention its normal for resisters to get hot. Theres very little when H is wired to woofer. The terminals are H T W and are not shown as backwards. And im embarressed to say, im actually using 2 10" woofers as the mid ranges. When they were wired to my older crossovers, they were very loud to the point i had to lower the mid of the eq, but sound very faint on H of new crossover. 






Posted By: nicr
Date Posted: 18 March 2017 at 2:03am
So my final qu is, how hot can resistors on crossovers become? Is it normal for them to be extremely hot while playing hours a day, every day for months, years or will the crossover burn out in the matter of how long? How hot is too hot? I have to decide to return them or keep them, thanks.  









Posted By: odc04r
Date Posted: 18 March 2017 at 10:36am
Depends on the part and its spec, they could happily work at 50-60C for quite a while before failing, but it probably won't be the resistor itself that fails. It'll be the PCB burning and charring, or it might get so hit it desolders, or it might be a combo of that and vibration. And another problem is that its resistance will change as it gets hot, how much I couldn't exactly say.

But it shouldn't really get that hot, I think something is wrong somewhere.


Posted By: madboffin
Date Posted: 18 March 2017 at 3:13pm
Quote I think something is wrong somewhere.


Yes, the claimed power rating of that crossover board.

50 Watts max, home stereo system...



Posted By: odc04r
Date Posted: 18 March 2017 at 6:58pm
Possibly a very valid point!


Posted By: nicr
Date Posted: 18 March 2017 at 7:20pm



Originally posted by madboffin madboffin wrote:

"I think something is wrong somewhere." Yes, the claimed power rating of that crossover board.50 Watts max, home stereo system...
Im using a 500 watt receiver and i used the new crossovers for only 50 minutes total and the resistors got so hot, actually the resistor of 2nd crossover got even hotter than other crossover that the black rubber on the coil melted a bit and on back of 2nd crossover looks like a slight burn. Any chance these crossovers are 4 ohms and not 8 ohms by looking at the picture and specs on page 1 of this thread or maby they cant handle a 500 receiver? My older 8 ohm crossover had for 15 years and still no problem with it sounds louder than new crossover, i wonder if new crossover is 4ohms? Thanks for replies.































Posted By: odc04r
Date Posted: 19 March 2017 at 9:53am
The xovre being 4 or 8 ohm should not affect anything getting hot, it just affects where the crossover points will approximately be in combination with your drivers in the final system. Whether a 4 or 8 ohm board, the components ideally contribute zero resistance in series with a driver in its passband.

Whether 50W or 500W, if the board is getting that hot you have miswired it or it is faulty.


Posted By: Earplug
Date Posted: 19 March 2017 at 1:51pm
Or 500W amp driving a badly designed 50W (hifi) xover.   Ouch




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Earplugs Are For Wimps!


Posted By: odc04r
Date Posted: 20 March 2017 at 10:01am
Originally posted by Earplug Earplug wrote:

Or 500W amp driving a badly designed 50W (hifi) xover.   Ouch




It's not beyond impossible. I'm thinking along the lines of the only function a resistor should have in an xover like that would be padding, and then I'd only expect to see that on the tweeter being as it is such a simple design. Not a lot of power there in comparison to the rest.

I think we can agree it is pretty cheap stuff though, be much better off going active or investing in some properly specc'd components. Buy cheap and buy twice...



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