THAM 12 - 12mm plywood?
Printed From: Speakerplans.com
Category: General
Forum Name: 12v Powered Systems
Forum Description: From Mini-rigs to ICE, all your low voltage audio needs here...
URL: https://forum.speakerplans.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=98488
Printed Date: 16 April 2024 at 10:54pm
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Topic: THAM 12 - 12mm plywood?
Posted By: XentriK Sound
Subject: THAM 12 - 12mm plywood?
Date Posted: 11 May 2017 at 2:39pm
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Finally got round to buying plywood for the tham 12's and couldn't find any 15mm so went for 12mm... don't suppose anyone's previously done the same and could give me pointers on how to modify the plans to get it to work? *It's only for a 12v battery powered system so won't be having anything heavy stacked ontop* |
Replies:
Posted By: cookie-dj
Date Posted: 11 May 2017 at 8:45pm
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I have a pair of Tham 12 and I would seriously suggest at least 15mm, these things can move some air for their size and a heavier and more substantial material would be preferred. Maybe you could look at adding further bracing where you can if 12mm is a must. ------------- You can't polish a turd! |
Posted By: bitSmasher
Date Posted: 11 May 2017 at 10:04pm
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Lots of bracing, especially around the throat/mouth ------------- https://www.instagram.com/batteryacidsoundsystem/ |
Posted By: Shortrope
Date Posted: 12 May 2017 at 6:38am
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The hardest part about building with 12mm is the joints. I've made non speaker stuff with it and found using a 3.5mm screw with the right size pilot was ok. You need to be very accurate in getting your screw in the very centre of the ply edge, it's very easy to split or bulge the ply. Battened joints on the exterior edges would be a good call too. Unless of course you rebate everything. ------------- My Tinnitus is coming along nicely!! |
Posted By: mini-mad
Date Posted: 12 May 2017 at 1:52pm
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Why not add some sort of beading or small 5mm x 5mm length of timber and use it to make batons along all the mouth and around as much as you can to increase surface area around joints and double all other bracing... bass cabs will "pulse" if not braced or made of to thinner wood. ------------- If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down. |
Posted By: XentriK Sound
Date Posted: 12 May 2017 at 2:34pm
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Thanks for all of your replies :) I'm going to put double the bracing throughout. Perhaps one 1/3 of the width and the other 2/3? Or should i just put them up against each other? (sorry if that doesn't make sense, im not sure how to explain it any other way) I was thinking of putting small L shaped brackets throughout but batons would be much more effective. |
Posted By: studio45
Date Posted: 12 May 2017 at 2:48pm
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Yes, do 2 braces per horn section spaced evenly as you say. Corner reflectors are a good idea too, they add strength in the corners of the box and smooth out the horn path. Use a pencil and compass off the edge of the nearest panel to work out where and how big to make them, you want to block off excess space in the corner while maintaining continuous expansion. ------------- Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA |
Posted By: magnus h
Date Posted: 19 May 2017 at 9:59pm
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XentriK Sound, which driver are you planning to use? I am thinking about doing a lightweight 12 mm version like you, and with a neodymium driver. |
Posted By: XentriK Sound
Date Posted: 22 May 2017 at 2:03pm
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Oberton 12b450 ------------- Devon Based Soundsystem. https://www.facebook.com/XentriKSoundEvents/ |
Posted By: mobiele eenheid
Date Posted: 22 May 2017 at 6:40pm
I once made a similar cabinet out of 12 mm for 12V and up to a couple hundred Watts I wouldn't mind it at all. Once you crank it much over 500 W I would prefer using 15 mm. If you use bracing like the pic below, I would keep it as it is (personally would skip the holes in the bracing): Best regards Johan |
Posted By: cookie-dj
Date Posted: 22 May 2017 at 7:29pm
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If you use PD drivers don't do what I did with the PD123C01 driver in mine. Allow an extra 3mm as its VERY tight in there. Literally had no space either side of mine. ------------- You can't polish a turd! |
Posted By: SouthwestCNC
Date Posted: 25 May 2017 at 3:22pm
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To make the area of each segment the same don't you need to make the box thinner to account for the thinner ply? bit tricky to go thinner as very tight already with the tham12. Or I suppose you are just upscaling the throat slightly so the change wont be massive but that does require you to centre the 12mm parts over where there is 15mm in the plans for consistent scaling. |
Posted By: JonB67
Date Posted: 25 May 2017 at 11:03pm
| You mean to essentially keep the internal dimensions the same southwest? |
Posted By: SouthwestCNC
Date Posted: 26 May 2017 at 9:28am
| Yes and no, You cant keep the dimensions the same. If you were going to use 18mm you would be de scaling the horn flare, But simply you can widen the internal width between side panels so that the area of the start and end of each segment remains the same as in 15mm. Not possible with 12mm as you cant really go thinner, well not easily with this design as it will probably conflict with the driver (worth checking tho). So other option is to accept you will have scaled up the horn flare making sure that the scaling that is taking place takes place consistently, I.e top,bottom, back and all internals centred of where there would have otherwise been 15mm. (Excluding the side panels only, you can put those the same internal distance apart as the 15mm plans to minimize the scale factor) Scaling will effect the horn loading, by how much I couldn't say. |
Posted By: SouthwestCNC
Date Posted: 26 May 2017 at 9:28am
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