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putting castors on subwoofer |
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waurma
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Joined: 01 January 2012 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 88 |
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Topic: putting castors on subwooferPosted: 17 February 2012 at 12:21am |
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quick question, thinking about putting a set of castors on a martin em201 to bring it on the road, any advice/tips for doing it?
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Goodvibetribe
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Joined: 06 December 2011 Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Posted: 17 February 2012 at 1:00am |
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Well if your putting them on something like a Martin product, make sure you've thought about it very hard as it could be expensive if it goes wrong. I would personally avoid it, if martin felt they were required they would have put them on. If you do put them on though, Only use high quality, heavy duty castors, Put them on the back and use bolts not screws. |
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Drop Bass not bombs
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waurma
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Joined: 01 January 2012 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 88 |
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Posted: 17 February 2012 at 1:05am |
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would I be better off just using a wheel board? its just the em201 is designed for instals rather than going on the road hence, no handles!
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AlfieDring
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Posted: 17 February 2012 at 7:38pm |
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If you want to do it....
1) Take driver out/anything else that might be blocking your view like wadding or cabling 2) Choose the locations and orientations of your castors so as not to hit anything you shouldn't 3) Select suitable bolts (hex head are good, socket/allen ok too) and T-nuts. Also use a lockwasher on outside between castor and bolt head. Bolts must be at least long enough to engage all of the thread in the T-nut and not be too much longer. 4) Hold castor in place and spot through the mount holes with a Brad Point drill bit of matching size. 5) Drill clearance holes for the bolts at marked spots. Drill them straight! Drill them slowly! When you get close to finished (and the point has emerged on the inside) stop and finish them off from inside (space allowing) this prevents tear out. If there's not enough space just drill very slowly with little pressure. These holes should be an EASY fit for the bolt I.E. the bolt should drop into the hole and NOT bite/thread into the wood, only into the T-nut. Generally this hole will be same diameter as T-nut's cylinder part. 6) fit your T-nuts using a big washer and with clean lubed threads on the bolts. 7) finally fit your castors, Bolt them on as tight as you can, consider using threadlocker or (my favorite) just grease the threads and use a serrated lockwasher. 8) run it up, play low level infrasub into the box and listen for air leaks around your castors, if any then fix them. 9) Done! If you follow all that i can't see it effecting the resale value badly or going wrong really? |
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Vert
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Joined: 30 March 2011 Location: Leicester Status: Offline Points: 211 |
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Posted: 17 February 2012 at 7:49pm |
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+1 on a wheel board
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waurma
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Posted: 18 February 2012 at 6:37pm |
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wheel board might be the option...
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AlfieDring
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Posted: 18 February 2012 at 8:51pm |
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If you do make a wheel board the 9 point plan above is still a good way to attach your castors :P If you then decide the wheels are great but lifting it on and off is a PITA then you'll already have the hardware to add castors to the bin, have had a practice run, and only be down the price of a bit of ply
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dylan-penguinmedia
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Joined: 14 April 2011 Location: Brighton Status: Offline Points: 766 |
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Posted: 18 February 2012 at 10:12pm |
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Sensible plan, this.... ^^^^^^^ |
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penguinmediasolutions.com
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