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Quick trick to stop turn on/off pops.

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studio45 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 01 June 2015 at 6:34pm
Hey up,
As I've mentioned, I've been working on ways to stop switching transients in my 12v amps. Since a lot of 12v systems end up running some part of the audio circuitry from a virtual ground rail, which jumps up to ~6v at power-on and drops to true 0v at power-off, there is often the problem of a large and potentially damaging transient being generated. A 6v swing is very big in terms of line-level signals.
Dealing with the power-on transient is easy - you just use a time-delayed relay circuit to either disconnect the signal or speakers, or hold the amp in "mute" mode for a couple of seconds while all the rails stabilise. However, at power-off, the relay never releases quickly enough to stop the transient getting through, as the power amp usually stays powered-up for a couple of seconds, from its own rail capacitors.
So, I considered using some kind of microprocessor to enact a power-up/power down sequence, making sure the power amp is the last thing on and the first thing off. However, this has several disadvantages - complexity, cost, development time for the code, loss of circuit breaker switching (12v would remain live inside the amp at all times, instead of the circuit being broken by a main power switch. If the uP goes nuts, anything could happen....) 
After some lateral thought, I realised there was an analogue solution, using only two extra components. And am now kicking myself for not thinking of it sooner.

Basically, you want the relay to release as fast as possible on power-off, but there's not much you can do about the release time of a relay. What you can achieve, however, is getting the audio circuitry to stay on for a fraction of a second to allow the relay to operate. To do this, you put a diode in the positive 12v line feeding the audio circuitry - and only in this line, not the power feeding the relay coil. Then, you add significant capacitance to the rails *after* this diode. I used 1500uF. Now, when the power switch is opened, this capacitor can only discharge into the following circuitry, not backwards through the diode. Thus, the relay experiences an abrupt loss of power and switches off as fast as it can. The audio circuit, meanwhile, stays powered up for half a second or so from the new capacitor. 

Et voila...no more thumps :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Saturnus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2015 at 1:08pm
Why not just use a for example 10V zener diode to fed the mute pull down. That would put the amp in mute long before the power capacitors are fully discharged and would probably also keep the amp muted long enough for the power supply to be reasonably stable.

Edited by Saturnus - 02 June 2015 at 1:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote studio45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2015 at 3:25pm
That's an interesting idea. However, I'm using a poorly documented board from Sure - it's a revision of their 2x300W TAS5630 board that has an additional pair of header pins labelled "SHDN" and "GND", not present on the original 2013 boards, which mute when shorted and activate the amp when left open. However, I'm not totally sure which chip pin the SHDN header is actually connected to (either /SD or /RESET, I think). None of the chip documentation, as far as I can see, confirms if either of those pins would be OK with having the 12v (well, 11-13.6v actually) battery voltage applied to it (which is also supplying the boost converter for +50V PVdd). It seems that the advised technique is to ground or float the pin, not pull it up. And since this mod is not mentioned in the manual, I'm flying blind.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Saturnus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2015 at 4:45pm
That's actually quite easy to answer. It has to be the RESET pin as the SD pin is an output that informs the microcontroller (if present) that the device is shutting down.

I'm almost positive Sure has named is SHDN because that's basically what it is. The chip is probably set up with the SD and RESET pins are connected directly together so any fault that requires a shutdown makes the SD pin go low and thereby pulls the RESET pin low which mutes the amp.

Remember, you can make any lower voltage you like with a 2 resistor voltage divider. Since one resistor is already needed to limit the current it just requires an extra resistor. As it's active pull down you'll also need a transistor. So basically a zener, a transistor, and 2 resistors. Although some refinements could be made.


Edited by Saturnus - 02 June 2015 at 4:57pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote studio45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2015 at 5:04pm
So the circuit would be.....

R1    ZD1
+50v---/\/\/\-----|<Z--------SHDN
  |       |
\ \
  R2   / /   R3
  \       \
  /      /
  |      |
0v------------------------------

where R1 and R2 are the voltage divider to drop the 50v to a reasonable value (3.3v? I think that's the internal logic voltage) and R3 is to pull SHDN low unless the Zener is conducting. Have I understood that right?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Saturnus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2015 at 5:22pm
+50V ------ Z1 ------ R1 ----- ----- R2 ------ GND
                              |                 |
                              |                 |
                               ---------------- T1
                                                |
                                                |
                                               SHDN

But this circuit is apparently built into the chip already. So maybe Sure inserted some RC timers that actually screws up the internal pop elimination. 


Edited by Saturnus - 02 June 2015 at 5:31pm
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