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soldering socapex

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soundguymatt View Drop Down
Young Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote soundguymatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: soldering socapex
    Posted: 26 April 2016 at 11:36pm
So i'm about to make some Socapex for the fest season, and i'm planning on going down the solder route. 

Does anyone have advice for me, tips, tricks, warnings ect... 
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Matt
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ceharden View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ceharden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2016 at 12:28am
A very good, high power, temperature controlled soldering iron.  When working with big connectors and cable, you want to get the heat in quickly and the joint made as quickly as possible to avoid damage to the insulation.
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imageoven View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2016 at 8:57am
Use connectors with built in secondary insulation (basicly a plastic tube inside the shell) and use clear heat shrink over each individual conductor connection . Much easier to check connections are still good. Alternatley connect CPC to (all parts of) metal shell, but this is not usualy catered for by connector design.
Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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soundguymatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote soundguymatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2016 at 12:27pm
Thanks for the tips guys, 

Originally posted by ceharden ceharden wrote:

A very good, high power, temperature controlled soldering iron.  When working with big connectors and cable, you want to get the heat in quickly and the joint made as quickly as possible to avoid damage to the insulation.

What sort or wattage should I be looking for? I have a 10, 25 and 30w, but i guessed none of these would be enough. I've used a 45w Iron before for doing some speakon, would that be a suitable wattage? 

Originally posted by imageoven imageoven wrote:

Use connectors with built in secondary insulation (basicly a plastic tube inside the shell) and use clear heat shrink over each individual conductor connection . Much easier to check connections are still good. Alternatley connect CPC to (all parts of) metal shell, but this is not usualy catered for by connector design.

Good thinking with the secondary insulation - I will look for thoes connectors. And the clear heatsrink over each connection is a great idea also. 
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Matt
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imageoven View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2016 at 2:57pm
An example:

http://www.ac-et.com/lighting/products/cable_and_connectors/multipin_connectors_147/TMMLP19LMS.asp
Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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James Tengo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote James Tengo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2016 at 3:04pm
If using soccas for motor controllers DO NOT connect the CPC to the shell! The central earth pins SHOULD NOT be linked, in older days it was common to use a washer of the appropriate size to bridge the "earth pins" in the centre of the connector so you could get away with using 13/14 core cable, or linking pairs of earth pins and using 15 core cable. If one of these is used with an Outboard brand motor controller you will blow it up...

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soundguymatt View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote soundguymatt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2016 at 4:53pm
Originally posted by James Tengo James Tengo wrote:

If using soccas for motor controllers DO NOT connect the CPC to the shell! The central earth pins SHOULD NOT be linked, in older days it was common to use a washer of the appropriate size to bridge the "earth pins" in the centre of the connector so you could get away with using 13/14 core cable, or linking pairs of earth pins and using 15 core cable. If one of these is used with an Outboard brand motor controller you will blow it up...


Yeah i'm aware that they should be 1-1, so 18 core cable and all wired up (but not the center pin). 

i've never seen that trick - and i hope i never do. 
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Matt
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ceharden View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ceharden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 April 2016 at 10:14pm
45W might be ok but make sure you've got a decent sized tip.  Half the problem is trying to heat up a connection with a soldering iron tip much smaller than the thing you're trying to solder.

Personally I use a 100W iron for everything!

Just browsing eBay and for moderate money you can get things like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CSI-PREMIER75W-Digital-Temperature-Controlled-Solder-Station-75W-Soldering-Iron-/222038248958?hash=item33b282cdfe:g:t-IAAOSw2VJVfzht

And I would use a tip like this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-4mm-Single-Flat-40-Bevel-Solder-Tip-KD-M-4C-/221183476929?hash=item337f9004c1

It's chunky but allows you to get the heat in easily.

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