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Tee nuts and m6 bolts

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Sypa View Drop Down
Young Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sypa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Tee nuts and m6 bolts
    Posted: 04 August 2015 at 12:07pm
So been switching a lot of drivers lately and having massive problems with the bolts and t nuts all the time. I dont know the exact english word for what happens, in short the bolts start spinning in place and then with the whole t nut . Is this supposed to happen LOL , i suppose its really bad quality materials of the tnut and m6s which make the windings easily damage .
Any links/guides for quality m6 and t-nuts in which these things wont happen? At least not as often.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote h0m35t4r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 12:15pm
Applying a little glue when they are installed usually helps to stop them from spinning
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanielIt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 12:24pm
I never used any glue for the t-nuts on my speakers.I usually drill the hole a bit smaller than the t-nut then knock it in place with a big hammer.I had one once that damaged the winding because i forced the bolt spining it in place,than it wony come off,insisting i had it turning in place damaging the entire wood arround it,luckly i managed to cut down the bolt and remove it.
Measure twice...cut once.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote snowflake Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 12:27pm
tee-nuts are inherently crap. they can fall out and go cross-threaded. use a coach bolt and hex-nut so you always have access to the business side of the fixing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sypa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 12:29pm
Yes they wont spin in place when you screw them on,if you succeed screwing them on that is. But when you go to unscrew you feel that moment when the winding damages and the screw is done. Its annoying as hell and it happens way too often.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote odc04r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 12:30pm
They can be a bit crap.

When installing make sure you do them up very tight with a chunky washer and a bolt before attaching any drivers while you can still get to them easily. An impact driver is not a bad idea here. Some glue might help but generally you won't need it. Don't drill the hole too wide, if anything you want it a very tight fit so the wood grips the t-nut shaft too.

Use hurricane nuts, or threaded inserts with a spot of epoxy. Basically anything except spiked t-nuts which love to fall out backwards and then spin.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sypa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 12:35pm
Actually lately used some hurricane nuts,they didnt fall out of the back like t nuts but still the m6 got its windings screwed LOL and ended up spinning in place. What materials are not prone to this? Titanium,stainless steel? Only kind i can buy in my town is the kinda blue-ish type of metal.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shagnasty Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 2:00pm
I use standard M6-tee nuts, pulled in the air impactor and a 100x50x8mm steel plate to pull them in, once they are in 2 3x12mm woodscrew per Tee nut go in the little V shaped bits.
 
I then blow an m6 tap thru each nut to clear them out nicely, throw a bit of decent greaseinto each one and use normal hex head M6 bolts with a flat washer next to the driver and spring washer on top of that, Rog always says use allen head bolts, personally I find a 10mm socket in a baby rachet fits in place better than an Allen key or a hex bit in a rachet..
 
Also, quite obviously, have a set of 20mm M6 bolts/screw that go in the hole during painting/spraying as using Trimite as thread lok is never going to help!!
 
I keep meaning make some little shoulder bolts that have a wing nut on the back just for this job...
 
Also on my "to do" list is Tee-nut type plate with just 4 screw holes in the back so I can gripfill the babies in and not have to pull them in with an impactor as the screws would seat them....
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cravings Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 2:15pm
i have found they're more troublesome in mdf than ply.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mini-mad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 2:38pm
...everything is more troublesome in mdf. Its sawdust thats been powered and then gluded back together. If is a fixture, no problem, if your always moving it or undoing and redoing it DONT use mdf. I have a sub in the bedroom thats mdf.. weighs a ton and never moves, MDF is PERFECT for this sort of thing.

If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote odc04r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 3:00pm
Originally posted by Sypa Sypa wrote:

Actually lately used some hurricane nuts,they didnt fall out of the back like t nuts but still the m6 got its windings screwed LOL and ended up spinning in place. What materials are not prone to this? Titanium,stainless steel? Only kind i can buy in my town is the kinda blue-ish type of metal.


Sounds like you want to maybe drill the holes a little smaller so the wood grips the nut all round and really *really* get the fixing in the wood tight before you put any drivers in at all.

Like said use a chunky washer (or steel plate) and drive in a bolt to tighten it with an impact driver. If you don't have one then use an allen key and a bit of pipe to get proper torque on it.

They fall out cos if you do them only hand tight, well that's how tight you put the bolts in too. So when you undo them you get a 50/50 chance of the bolt undoing or the whole lot coming out. And even if the bolt comes out, you're still going to loosen the nut a little.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote studio45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 August 2015 at 3:13pm
I use a 6.5mm hole for a 6mm tee nut. Since I started doing that (instead of 8mm) I've had much less trouble with them falling out. 
One thing I have noticed is some problems using an A3 stainless steel bolt in a BZP (bright zinc plated) tee nut. The stainless seems to be much harder on the surface than the BZP and sometimes they bind up on the way *out* which is super annoying. I think the bolt is grinding little flakes of zinc plating off the tee nut, galling them up and then they lock the threads. Oil or grease helps with this to a degree, but if I could find stainless tee nuts at a decent price I'd be happier.
Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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