Tee nuts and m6 bolts |
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Sypa
Young Croc Joined: 21 February 2013 Location: Croatia Status: Offline Points: 921 |
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Posted: 04 August 2015 at 12:07pm |
So been switching a lot of drivers lately and having massive problems with the bolts and t nuts all the time. I dont know the exact english word for what happens, in short the bolts start spinning in place and then with the whole t nut . Is this supposed to happen , i suppose its really bad quality materials of the tnut and m6s which make the windings easily damage .
Any links/guides for quality m6 and t-nuts in which these things wont happen? At least not as often. |
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h0m35t4r
Registered User Joined: 21 July 2015 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 12 |
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Applying a little glue when they are installed usually helps to stop them from spinning
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DanielIt
Registered User Joined: 11 September 2013 Location: Italy. Status: Offline Points: 273 |
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I never used any glue for the t-nuts on my speakers.I usually drill the hole a bit smaller than the t-nut then knock it in place with a big hammer.I had one once that damaged the winding because i forced the bolt spining it in place,than it wony come off,insisting i had it turning in place damaging the entire wood arround it,luckly i managed to cut down the bolt and remove it.
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Measure twice...cut once.
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snowflake
Old Croc Joined: 29 December 2004 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 3122 |
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tee-nuts are inherently crap. they can fall out and go cross-threaded. use a coach bolt and hex-nut so you always have access to the business side of the fixing.
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Sypa
Young Croc Joined: 21 February 2013 Location: Croatia Status: Offline Points: 921 |
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Yes they wont spin in place when you screw them on,if you succeed screwing them on that is. But when you go to unscrew you feel that moment when the winding damages and the screw is done. Its annoying as hell and it happens way too often.
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odc04r
Old Croc Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Sarfampton Status: Offline Points: 5482 |
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They can be a bit crap.
When installing make sure you do them up very tight with a chunky washer and a bolt before attaching any drivers while you can still get to them easily. An impact driver is not a bad idea here. Some glue might help but generally you won't need it. Don't drill the hole too wide, if anything you want it a very tight fit so the wood grips the t-nut shaft too. Use hurricane nuts, or threaded inserts with a spot of epoxy. Basically anything except spiked t-nuts which love to fall out backwards and then spin. |
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Sypa
Young Croc Joined: 21 February 2013 Location: Croatia Status: Offline Points: 921 |
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Actually lately used some hurricane nuts,they didnt fall out of the back like t nuts but still the m6 got its windings screwed and ended up spinning in place. What materials are not prone to this? Titanium,stainless steel? Only kind i can buy in my town is the kinda blue-ish type of metal.
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shagnasty
Old Croc Joined: 30 July 2007 Location: Guildford, UK Status: Offline Points: 7685 |
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I use standard M6-tee nuts, pulled in the air impactor and a 100x50x8mm steel plate to pull them in, once they are in 2 3x12mm woodscrew per Tee nut go in the little V shaped bits.
I then blow an m6 tap thru each nut to clear them out nicely, throw a bit of decent greaseinto each one and use normal hex head M6 bolts with a flat washer next to the driver and spring washer on top of that, Rog always says use allen head bolts, personally I find a 10mm socket in a baby rachet fits in place better than an Allen key or a hex bit in a rachet.. Also, quite obviously, have a set of 20mm M6 bolts/screw that go in the hole during painting/spraying as using Trimite as thread lok is never going to help!! I keep meaning make some little shoulder bolts that have a wing nut on the back just for this job... Also on my "to do" list is Tee-nut type plate with just 4 screw holes in the back so I can gripfill the babies in and not have to pull them in with an impactor as the screws would seat them.... |
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cravings
Old Croc Joined: 30 January 2007 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 7442 |
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i have found they're more troublesome in mdf than ply.
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mini-mad
Old Croc Joined: 13 July 2012 Location: london Status: Offline Points: 6903 |
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...everything is more troublesome in mdf. Its sawdust thats been powered and then gluded back together. If is a fixture, no problem, if your always moving it or undoing and redoing it DONT use mdf. I have a sub in the bedroom thats mdf.. weighs a ton and never moves, MDF is PERFECT for this sort of thing.
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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.
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odc04r
Old Croc Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Sarfampton Status: Offline Points: 5482 |
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Sounds like you want to maybe drill the holes a little smaller so the wood grips the nut all round and really *really* get the fixing in the wood tight before you put any drivers in at all. Like said use a chunky washer (or steel plate) and drive in a bolt to tighten it with an impact driver. If you don't have one then use an allen key and a bit of pipe to get proper torque on it. They fall out cos if you do them only hand tight, well that's how tight you put the bolts in too. So when you undo them you get a 50/50 chance of the bolt undoing or the whole lot coming out. And even if the bolt comes out, you're still going to loosen the nut a little. |
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studio45
Old Croc Joined: 16 October 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3864 |
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I use a 6.5mm hole for a 6mm tee nut. Since I started doing that (instead of 8mm) I've had much less trouble with them falling out.
One thing I have noticed is some problems using an A3 stainless steel bolt in a BZP (bright zinc plated) tee nut. The stainless seems to be much harder on the surface than the BZP and sometimes they bind up on the way *out* which is super annoying. I think the bolt is grinding little flakes of zinc plating off the tee nut, galling them up and then they lock the threads. Oil or grease helps with this to a degree, but if I could find stainless tee nuts at a decent price I'd be happier.
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