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Why do my reflexes sound so...honky?

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dmr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 June 2016 at 10:07am
Originally posted by Teunos Teunos wrote:

Okay so please tell me i wont make another mistake here.
But i just quickly plugged your numbers into bassbox pro
Are you sure that graph you posted is tuned for 43Hz?
If i insert 180L, 43Hz, 4 ports of 9800 mm^2 it should be 21.0cm long, but it gives me the yellow graph.
If i insert 180L, 34Hz, 4 ports of 9800 mm^2 it should be 43.0cm long, but it gives me the red graph.
The red graph is very similar to yours.
No idea whats going on here, your params look correct, however looks like you might be running a slightly different bassbox version, i'm running 6.0.18. Even then I cant imagine it making that much of a difference.

Here are my input params for the graph above


When it stops raining for more than one second ill try and add some more bracing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Meat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 June 2016 at 1:14pm
I had the same thing with the quick and dirty 2x18 I built a couple of years ago out of 15mm ply (also a small box with low tuning). I fixed the sound by bracing the hell out of it. Without these measures it sounded horrible.

I glued and screwed extra wood on every panel where I could feel resonance when it was cranked. I also added additional 50mm x 50mm battens to the port. These measures added significant weight but it sounded much much better.


Don't test the champignon sound
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Crashpc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crashpc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 June 2016 at 5:31pm
Quote Ill have a go at this later and post up the results, I don't have any fancy equipment so its going to be pretty rudimentary.



It doesn´t need any fancy equipment, so to speak - two JACK 3,5mm connectors for your soundcards, a resistor (about 33-100Ohm) "crocs" to connect it to the speaker terminals, and free Arta software. If everything goes as should, setup would take 5 minutes, and there ya go... But of course, it might not be easy for everyone. One can even buy complete systems as Dayton (WT-3 I guess). If you do your own DIY boxes, it is well worth it.
Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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dmr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 June 2016 at 7:06pm
Originally posted by Crashpc Crashpc wrote:


It doesn´t need any fancy equipment, so to speak - two JACK 3,5mm connectors for your soundcards, a resistor (about 33-100Ohm) "crocs" to connect it to the speaker terminals, and free Arta software. If everything goes as should, setup would take 5 minutes
Not sure if i'm following you correctly, but you power the speaker from the line out signal (no power amp) and connect the line in across the resistor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crashpc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2016 at 2:53pm
dmr: for impedance measurements, yes! :-)
Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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dmr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2016 at 6:44pm
That software is pretty neat, here is what I got:


That peak is a 54Hz/207Ohms - I'm just a noob here but isn't that kinda high for a 43Hz tuned cab?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crashpc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2016 at 7:48pm
Little more signal would maybe help to straighten things up, but this is enaugh to make a picture of how it´s tuned. . It seems you have it tuned at 39-40Hz. That seems to be right. The problem with your enclosure is obviously elsewhere.

Now when you was able to do this, you could take the speaker out of the enclosure, carefully add (about 40g? of) weight to the speaker cone, and measure that one (while the first one set as overlay). Then it will count real TS parameters of your speaker. (menu item). It would provide you with better data for a simulation. If everything looks good even after all this, the problem could really be in the enclosure, or in the signal/power trace. The source, or the amplifier, or thin long cables etc. I remember well, when I used by 2 18"s bridged with QSC RMX 1850HD, using about 12+m long cables. It sounded like sh**z. Once I cut the wires to 2,8m lenght, the cone excursion went down, and the sound also tightened up!
Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pasi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2016 at 7:59pm
First of all, MDF is not airtight, so you might want to paint your cabinet first. I didn't notice any words about bracing, how that is done?

Also tuning on extremely low level seems to be around 40Hz as Crashpc said, but it will creep up quite a bit when you start giving it some power. Especially with those corner ports.

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dmr View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dmr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2016 at 9:17pm
Originally posted by Pasi Pasi wrote:

I didn't notice any words about bracing, how that is done?
Bracing is a bunch of triangles stuck to the corners midway down the panels - I'm gonna split each panel along its longest face and stick in a batten (running depthways) of something about 40mm high. Should be rigid enough?

I think i'm good for cabling, I used some pretty thick 4 core stuff (no idea of guage) which I had to seriously lube up to get the bugger in the NL4FX connector.

I tried using the added mass method for calculating the TS params and ended up with this strange result. The green trace is the impedance response of the driver in free air with 50g bag of rice sat on the cone.



Edited by dmr - 18 June 2016 at 9:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy Kos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2016 at 10:02pm
I would suggest more wadding, white polyester wadding is good, its possibly what you have in there isnt enough, and isnt quite right. I find that MDF cabs need more wadding, and all panels should be covered. I have a similar box, and I have every panel well covered, excluding the ports and immediately behind the ports, with 2 layers of polyester wadding.

If you have access to a measurement mic (there are cheap ones out there that will do the job) , there is plenty of free software out there that can do a basic analysis for you, REW (free) can do a waterfall response which might help show whats occurring.


just a guy with a warehouse and a few speakers... www.bluearan.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Pasi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 June 2016 at 11:26pm
For T-S parameters you need to measure first the driver in free air without added mass, and then with the added mass. Program calculates the parameters from the shift in resonance frequency with known mass. Not as accurate as some other options but gives you indications. Would be best done with constant current though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Crashpc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 June 2016 at 7:41am
As Pasi wrote, and I did too, but not obviosly enaugh, you need to get the driver out of the enclosure. I had some boxes tuned at 40-42-45Hz, and when it was done well, there was not problem about boomy sound, at all. So I wonder where is the problem. I would look at signal path, if the problem is not in the source, amplifier, etc...
Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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