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12v powered mini studio

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libero View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote libero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: 12v powered mini studio
    Posted: 05 October 2011 at 1:07am
Hi,

Just figuring out what's the best way of putting together my studio on wheels.

I need to power 2 passive studio speakers NS10 in the back of my van that is equipped as a studio, the speakers are 65W 8ohm and I didn't really want to invert the 12v to run them from a home-like amplifier. I was actually thinking on using a car amplifier, but they all run at 4ohms. Ideally I wanted to match impedance, but apparently no car amplifiers at 8ohm exist on earth.
Wondering if a 100W/4ohm amplifier that I saw in a shop near here would harm/cause problems.

Looking forward to suggestions!

Libero
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Saturnus View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Saturnus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2011 at 9:15am

It wouldn't matter. The higher the impedance the easier it is for the amp to drive. Any amp in world can drive both 4 and 8 ohm speakers, it's only if you go lower than 4 ohms it becomes problematic for some amps as it has to deliver more current than it's designed for.

So in short, higher impedance, no problem. 

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slaz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2011 at 9:15am
Any car amplifier will work into 8R load OK .... just at reduced power o/p.

If you want it for monitoring, make sure you get a good quality one .... brands like Kenwood, Alpine, Vibe are the ones to go for. Watch out for crap like "Automatic bass boost" etc. (if present, make sure it's at least switchable). Also bear in mind the bullsh*t factor when looking at power rating ratings. If it has 500W plastered over the box, its probably about 200 real watts.

I use a Vibe Litebox 2-channel .... rated at "500W" in the marketing, but into 2 x 8R loads it would yield about 60-70W (real watts) per channel. In fact you could do alot worse than use that one for your purpose.
I can vouch for it sounding clean and sweet .....

You'll probably want to rig up a small switch between REM and +ve to use as on/off switch. Otherwise standard connections .... 2 x RCA in (adjustable sensitivity) and bare wire out to speakers.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemisphere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2011 at 9:30am
Some REALLY dishonest models (theloudest.com amps for example) will state even higher still - some of theirs are rated around 3000w and put out around 10% of that in real watts.. when it doubt, check Google before buying any amp and see what people say on forums etc.
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slaz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2011 at 9:39am
Originally posted by Hemisphere Hemisphere wrote:

Some REALLY dishonest models (theloudest.com amps for example) will state even higher still - some of theirs are rated around 3000w and put out around 10% of that in real watts.. when it doubt, check Google before buying any amp and see what people say on forums etc.


Yup. The better manufacturers indulge in the marketing/bullsh*t watts too, but a bit less extreme usually. Some of the more extreme bullsh*t companies .... yeah you can knock a zero off the headline rating.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote libero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2011 at 6:37pm
Oh my,

I am so grateful for the quick and exhaustive response received from every single one of you.
Wondering if you could have a look at these two models that I am undecided between:
This is small, 2 channels/15W, and the specs say 10W when on 8ohm (don't really need so much power, but isn't it bad to underpower from the amplifier anyway?).
http://www.shop.solar-wind.co.uk/acatalog/energy_efficient_audio_amplifiers_speakers.html#aEDC_2dTCLASSv2_2d15W
And this one:
http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/product_m-in-phase-ipa1041_p-23407.htm
It's a 4 channel 75W/4ohm with a low pass and a high pass:
The merchant has recommended it so that I could drive the Yamaha speakers and the small 3.5" (4ohm) speakers of the front cabin at the same time. I should LP the Yamahas so to add all the bass that is missing.
Is this last one wise to buy?

Thanks to all again!

Libero
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rich_gale Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2011 at 6:57pm
select a decent car amp and it will surpass most 'studio' power amps.  things like the mmats lm2125, oldschool phoenix gold, rockford etc.  

try and keep everything in laptop format, running from a car laptop psu and you can avoid all inverter rubbish.  
REFLEX ALL THE WAY.... (however, im playing with horns again...) That ok Mister Valiant? :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Saturnus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 October 2011 at 7:01pm

Wow. That has got to be the most expensive T-amp I've ever seen.

But let's take one step back and see what you really need. Yamaha NS10 are near-field monitors so you don't need more than a couple of watts, 10W is more than enough to drive them.

Let also look at what the NS10 is designed for. It's commonly know to be the worst commercial speaker ever made and is used extensively in studios to simulate how the mix sounds on a boombox  or other ultra low sound quality product. And it does that job very well by having a huge peak at 1.5KHz, nothing over 15KHz and very lacking bass with very little dynamics. All in all, a horrible speaker but that's what it's designed to simulate.

With that in mind a low cost car amp would probably suit it very well so that the sound quality gets even worse but it would be a shame. I'd recommend buying an amp that you could also drive quality near filed monitors later when you invest in such so something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Class-T-Amp-Integrate-Amplifier-Tripath-TA2024-TA-2024-/180729772839?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DDLSL%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%252BDDSIC%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D200567614930%252B200567614930%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3266216071966691549

It's basically the same as you linked to but just at a much better price. You can get them even cheaper but this is a quality product that in sound quality will be sufficient for even critical listening when you get proper monitors.



Edited by Saturnus - 05 October 2011 at 7:03pm
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libero View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote libero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 October 2011 at 10:17am
Hi,

Excellent, thanks all! I just wanted to make sure that the amp wouldn't struggle, being of a much smaller size, as many people recommended to me. What do you think about this?

Libero
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petegt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 October 2011 at 12:30am
+1 pretty much all amps will happily run at 8 ohms. 

Im currently running some tannoy system 800's passives on a Rainbow iPaul 2.400 car amp and is just as good as most studio amps.

I have looked into the tripath amps and while they look tempting I have never been convinced with how much clean power they will put out because highest rms ratings are measured at 10% thd
Tannoy system 800 monitors
2 Bill fitzmaurice autotubas
Minidsp + Lem 2.420 amp
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