1850 Horn Build pics

 

I will make a jig making and guide, to make it easier to explain.

 

Yes i am still building cabinets for at least another year.

 

will update these pics as soon as i geta chance

 

i dont think there is a break even point to using a jig- basically if u want the strongest cab possible use a jig.

I have noticed a massive difference from rebated joints and regular butt joints.

 

Im pretty sure my router jig is 30mm- but i will measure it 2moro when im back at the unit.

 

Your more than welcome on the work done on the Xtro's- They are fully rebated also. they are alot of work but are worth it.

 

To my knowledge there is only 10 Xtros in the Uk and all 10 have been built by myself-

if you rebate, what happened with the labhorns then?

 

Hope I'm not being too presumtious seeing as this is my first post.  I generally ask questions, not offer advice.....but I have some experience with these boxes so humbly offer my opinion. I have built a very large number of T30s, and would HIGHLY recommend building the double driver model. I would also wait for the new 3012 driver due after the new year. The single driver T30 is a waste of time, seriously. The kind folks on the BFM forum mean well.....but they simply don't understand the SPL demands and sound requirements of DJ specific systems. Sure, maybe for wedding DJs and the like, but not for dance specific events. I have A/Bed my T30 with both single driver T30s and 4015 T36s and there is no question - for size, heft, and sound, the dually T30 is the king. I have built over 12.

 

I currently run 6 double T30s with 3 HD215s on top and this is a pretty potent combination for roots based music - roots, dubstep, dancehall, reggae-breaks. The Tubas do not like much above 90hz, so it would be wise to have a top cab that can reach low or do like I did and use a kick bin...I run my HDs from 70-150hz, where Otop12s take over.

 

As for quick building - the most important peice in the BFM build is the baffle. Take the time to make a MDF template complete with driver holes and use that EVERY time you make a baffle. If you double brace the cabinet you will have a very sturdy build. My cabs are built from 10 ply Birch braced every 9 inches and I regularly have people dancing on my cabs. Rebating is not necessary, though obviously a pro touch. My cabs are a couple years old now and have survived three years of Burningman as well as numerous other events without breaking. Use PL and a brad nailer.

 

I hope some of that is useful to you!