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24V Bluetooth Speaker

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Jebimasta View Drop Down
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    Posted: 07 September 2018 at 9:30am
Happy Friday folks!

Please allow me to introduce my effort at making a portable bluetooth speaker :)


Design intent:

40Hz-18Khz+
Possibly 90dB
Tang Band W5-1138SM and two Faital Pro 3Fe22 - all neo. 
30 hours of battery life @ 86dB - in human terms I think you'd have to speak loud over it.
Under 4kg
410x170x192mm
Bluetooth 4.2
NFC
Powered and slow charge from regular 5V USB-C
24V power and reasonable charge from 2.1mm DC connector, probably need a 60-50W supply.
Battery meter on back.

I've used parts from ebay/amazon for the electronics and sort of butchered them together into some form of passable circuit.

I'm most of the way through the build and will post some more pics later this evening.

Besides from the CAD and a bit of WINISD, I don't know what I'm doing.
The electronics are a bit of a stab in the dark and it's by no means a cheap or efficient way of doing things, but it does work! not sure about the charging yet though.

Let me know what you think and I'd love some feedback once I show the nitty gritty fudge that's running the thing.


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imageoven View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2018 at 12:29pm
I would recess the knobs or you'll knock them off eventually. 
Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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studio45 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote studio45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2018 at 3:09pm
Right on bro! What amp are you using?
Studio45 - Box Builder Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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Jebimasta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jebimasta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2018 at 6:11pm
The amp is a 2.1 jobbo from china: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01EJNY4MI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Can't really comment on the sound quality, perhaps a bit more noise audible than I'd like when it's not playing anything, but sounds alright otherwise.

I'm really impressed with the tang band, that thing is great for a small box! it's about 7l net internal.

Some more photos of the development so far:

The prototype box and it's first portable version (EmbarrassedLOL):


CNC cut parts and assembly:


Drivers installed:


Some Switch wiring. The buttons are LED illuminated, power button was straight forward but the other one is for the bluetooth receiver. I've piggybacked the surface mount components to bring the functionality to the switch panel, but the current from the board isn't enough to illuminate the LED so I'm having to use a transistor switch to turn on power from the 24v source. 


The switch and input panels are laser cut stainless and laser marked too. two different suppliers though so the registration isn't great. aux input is a switched connector that the bluetooth receiver runs through.


I plan on gluing the baffle and back panels on in the end, but for now I've used a neoprene gasket and I turned up some stainless pins that I can partially insert and it holds it all together in a way I can take apart easily. when it's glued I'll bash the pins in flush.


The black square beneath the buttons is a piece of Alcantara that has the NFC chip underneath.
I was planning on pressing/debossing/branding the NFC logo into it, but not really sure how that's going to work at the moment.

I always aim high and find myself running up against my own impatience and ability, stuffs getting a bit worn and torn already, I managed to blow up the bluetooth receiver when wiring something up. I thought I could take off the 3.7v battery that came with the receiver and wire in 3.7v from the battery via a buck board. Something fried though.

I might attempt to draw up the planned circuit in a sketch of some form, then you'll all see what a clusterfuck it actually is LOL.

As for the knobs, It's intended to be a kitchen speaker, not too bothered about taking it places at the moment.

Cheers






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Jebimasta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jebimasta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2018 at 6:32pm
This is the rough layout, in not so technical terms:


I'm actually not so sure about the battery charging bit... I've used a lab power supply set to CC/CV mode and it charged fine. I'm guessing a boost board that does the same thing will also work. I'm assuming it will work as a normal power supply when the speaker is plugged in and on/working. How it interacts with a full battery is a mystery to me hahah.

I know lots of other people have done this before, wonder how they did it?


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imageoven View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 September 2018 at 11:23pm
Some good stuff here!

What is the wood and how is the finish on the cut edge?

I'm working on a non speaker project at the moment using poplar ply and the difference compared to birch ply is huge - I'm having to do a lot of filling into the cut edge and it's meant I'm having to paint rather than have a natural finish.
Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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slaz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2018 at 8:45am
I suspect most of these kind of cheapie 2.1 amp modules do NOT have any HP filtering on the 2 mid/top outputs (i.e. those outputs get full-range signal !). Eck.

I'd check that if I were you ....
REMEMBER....POLITICIANS AND DIAPERS SHOULD BE CHANGED OFTEN AND FOR THE SAME REASON
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Jebimasta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jebimasta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2018 at 8:54am
I'm not 100% on the wood, I asked for 12mm birch from the CNC guys, looks good mostly, you can see some filling. The problem I had was with a 12mm thick sheet 12mm wide it chips easily, there were a few small holes that went right through that I've had to fill. Machined edges are a bit rough.

I may have been duped but the price was good and it's manageable.

Now it's glued up I'm actually concerned about the surface finish inside the port, could be a little rough still, I'll have to get a file in there.



Edited by Jebimasta - 08 September 2018 at 8:56am
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I-shen Soundboy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote I-shen Soundboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2018 at 11:15am
12mm it may be, birch-faced perhaps, but that core looks like compressed  wood-chip to me.

The proper stuff has equal-thickness (1.4mm) layers of birch from Russia  or the Baltic states.

The CNC guys probably did you a favour using the cheaper stuff, your design calls for a lot of wood to achieve the multiple cutouts.  


Edited by I-shen Soundboy - 08 September 2018 at 11:27am
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Jebimasta View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jebimasta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2018 at 3:05pm
Originally posted by slaz slaz wrote:

I suspect most of these kind of cheapie 2.1 amp modules do NOT have any HP filtering on the 2 mid/top outputs (i.e. those outputs get full-range signal !). Eck.

I'd check that if I were you ....

That's a good point! it's all in chinese and I couldn't initially tell what the potentiometers did. I was fiddling for a while before I figured it out. how would I check? Wire the tang band to either left or right and run a bass frequency through it? 
In my MDF box I didn't have the mid tops in their own chambers and so when I saw them move a lot I'd thought it was just the 5" driver moving them. I guess they could be attempting to play the bass too!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jebimasta Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2018 at 3:07pm
Originally posted by I-shen Soundboy I-shen Soundboy wrote:

12mm it may be, birch-faced perhaps, but that core looks like compressed  wood-chip to me.

The proper stuff has equal-thickness (1.4mm) layers of birch from Russia  or the Baltic states.

The CNC guys probably did you a favour using the cheaper stuff, your design calls for a lot of wood to achieve the multiple cutouts.  

Yeah now you mention it I had some birch ply from my last build and it's much more uniform.

like I said... the price was good hah! it used over half a sheet in the end I think
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote I-shen Soundboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 September 2018 at 8:46pm
Hmm, I could (and have) made 15" reflex subs from half a sheet, and could probably have made a kitchen speaker from the offcuts.  

With the relatively cubic design, v2.0 could be knocked up with a bit of standard cabimetmaking.  If you're a huge fan of the ply endgrain, it's possible to buy sheets of 'fineline' plywood (all pre-sawn and glued together). Obviously doesn't have the strength of normal ply, but good enough for a box side.
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