Assembly of Recone parts?

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   Im considering reconing a woofer myself.  Im pretty good at this sort of thing, and understand the importance of cleaning everything up, taping over vc gap during cleanup etc.  

my issue is with how you go about assembling each part of the recone kit(while keeping it all alighned).  some kits i see come as a single part (with the cone, vc, spider preglued together.  the kit i am looking at comes with all the parts seperate.  the only thing glued is the surround to the cone.  Can someone please list the standard method of assembly for a recone job (using a recone kit that comes in all the seperate parts).

i am amazed there is not one good youtube vid of the process....

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rich_gale Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 18 February 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2697	Post Options Post Reply Quote rich_gale Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Assembly of Recone parts? Posted: 02 December 2008 at 1:51am
	Im considering reconing a woofer myself. Im pretty good at this sort of thing, and understand the importance of cleaning everything up, taping over vc gap during cleanup etc. my issue is with how you go about assembling each part of the recone kit(while keeping it all alighned). some kits i see come as a single part (with the cone, vc, spider preglued together. the kit i am looking at comes with all the parts seperate. the only thing glued is the surround to the cone. Can someone please list the standard method of assembly for a recone job (using a recone kit that comes in all the seperate parts). i am amazed there is not one good youtube vid of the process....

Centauri Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 29 November 2004 Location: Newcastle Aus Status: Offline Points: 1792	Post Options Post Reply Quote Centauri Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 December 2008 at 2:25am
	With these kits I first assemble the spider to the voice coil loosely and glue the spider down to the frame first, using the standard centring shims in the voice coil. I then lower the cone over the voice coil (keeping the coil wires out of the way) and glue the cone surround to the frame whilst ensuring the cone is centred at the voice coil without tending to push it one way. I then glue the top gasket at this stage too. One of the most important things here is to make sure the voice coil itself is centred vertically with the top plate - it can be difficult to see this but it is critical. The shims should be tight enough to prevent the former falling down in the gap. After all this has dried, I then route the leadin wires through the cone and solder them to the voice coil leads and terminals. I then run a two-part epoxy around the join between the cone and voice coil - a little up and down movement on the cone will let some of the epoxy flow through to the edge of the spider. when the epoxy has dried, you should have a nicely centred assembly when you remove the shims. I also epoxy the join between the leadin wires and voice coil wires to the cone before gluing the dustcap. A little more involved, but easy enough to do - just takes a lot longer overall as there are more glue drying periods between steps. Edited by Centauri - 02 December 2008 at 2:28am

rich_gale Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 18 February 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2697	Post Options Post Reply Quote rich_gale Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 December 2008 at 11:18am
	thanks man. the movement of the cone to allow the epoxy to flow behind and to the edge of the spider is something i thought might have to be done. what sort of clearance can i expect between the cone hole diameter and the former? 1mm gap, or less?

Centauri Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 29 November 2004 Location: Newcastle Aus Status: Offline Points: 1792	Post Options Post Reply Quote Centauri Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 December 2008 at 12:25pm
	Inner cone clearance depends on the kit - some are quite snug whilst others (especially generic kits or components) can have quite a large gap to fill.

rich_gale Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 18 February 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2697	Post Options Post Reply Quote rich_gale Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 December 2008 at 10:21am
	cool. so im asuming it is crucial to have the hole end of the cone touching the spider(where it meets the former) so the spider stops the epoxy from oozing out the gap- and also to allow the epoxy to fix the cone to the spider. i worry that if the cone is at a certain point (with the tiniest gap between it and the spider) the internal edge of the spider might touch the cone and make a noise during use. will the epoxy (from moving the cone up and down during assembly) stop any chance of the cone and spider interfering with eachother? and also, do i want about a 10mil deep pool of epoxy around the former (with the cone holding it all in) - so if you were able to remove the cured epoxy it would be an epoxy ring of the same internal diameter as the former? ps. which araldite would you recommend for each part?

Centauri Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Old Croc Joined: 29 November 2004 Location: Newcastle Aus Status: Offline Points: 1792	Post Options Post Reply Quote Centauri Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 December 2008 at 11:04am
	In most cases the cone and spider would meet the former in the same place. You just have to keep a watch under the cone, when moving the cone up and down, to see that enough of the epoxy is coming through to the spider to make a reliable joint - the former, cone and spider should all end up being glued in one joint. I use Bostik 5-minute epoxy - don't much care for the Selley's stuff. For the surround / gasket / spider to frame joins, I use a Bostik multibond.