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Behringer inuke NU6000 vs KAM KXD7200 bench tested

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 July 2016 at 12:23pm
1.16kW into 8 Ohms, 1.80kW into 4 Ohms for Bass duty

Is this mean that this amp deliver 3.6kW in bridge mode/8 ohm all day long?

ufff, maybe I make stupid question because this amp is not bridgable? But someone write that this can be done via remote connect software?

Hi Jason,

What wiki are you talking about? The only one that I know of is the X32 Wiki. I just checked and no one has registered there awaiting approval.

Regarding your initial question, I did some digging and this amp can be configured in bridge mode. You need to use the iNuke Remote Connect app to change the amp to that mode. According to the manual (page 7), when in bridge mode both outputs are identical. In other words you would simply have to connect your sub to one of the speakon jacks. Wiring would be the 1+ and 1- for either jack.

I'm sorry you wasted a lot of time. But it only took me about 10 minutes to download the app, change it to bridge mode, look at the graphical path, and read the manual. 

Paul


Edited by foler - 08 July 2016 at 12:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jammin75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 July 2016 at 1:07pm
i have inuke 6000 dsp and use the software i havent seen the bridge mode Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 July 2016 at 1:10pm
Probably wrong information
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote APW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 July 2016 at 1:48pm
Isn't the 6000 essentially two 3000s on a single pcb and each configured in a permanent bridge?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fatfreddiescat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 July 2016 at 2:54pm
Originally posted by APW APW wrote:

Isn't the 6000 essentially two 3000s on a single pcb and each configured in a permanent bridge?

I think your right there and that all the inukes use the same power amp IC's or at least the inuke 3000 up.

Inuke 3000 - 1 IC per channel (2 Ohm min)
Inuke 6000 - 2 IC's per channel in bridge mode (4 Ohm min)
Inuke 4-6000 - 1 IC per channel x 4, bridgeable (2 Ohm min, 4Ohm min in bridge mode)
Inuke 12000 - 4 IC's per channel bridged in pairs to make 4 channels which are then run in parallel to make 2 channels (2 Ohm min)
All IC's in the 3000 and up use same power rail voltage? my guess is that the inukes below the 3000 just use a lower rail voltage/smaller psu, same IC.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheif_Stringer_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2016 at 9:09pm
Is one of these amps capable of running 2 18sound 21NLW9601 @ 4 ohms, 1800w AES, 3600w program power (recommended power of amp per channel without clipping to drive these, im happy to use abit less), playing 30-90hz.

I understand there will be better options but these are cheap, i need two of them and i dont have much money.

Or would i be better off getting 2 t.amp TSA 4-1300s running two channels @ 2 x 4000W (8 ohm) using 8 ohm drivers?

When an amp says 2 x 3000w is that clipping or before?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bmholbro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2016 at 11:45pm
Hi Chief--I think you would be fine running the NU6000 with your dual cabinets. Your subs can handle much more than my Yamaha clubs do, but I barely tick the amp at all when I run fairly large parties. I also know some folks that use these on their SRX's cabinets.  I don't think you'd be displeased with the output you would get from these. 

I have the DSP model and have a mode with the cross set at 90 hz and a limit setting on each channel.  I've never tripped the breaker on the unit as noted in the original bench test as a potential issue in extreme cases.  My application is almost always mid sized club venues doing house/techno, so I'm not as reliant on sustained bass as other types of EDM.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheif_Stringer_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2016 at 12:20am
Originally posted by bmholbro bmholbro wrote:

Hi Chief--I think you would be fine running the NU6000 with your dual cabinets. Your subs can handle much more than my Yamaha clubs do, but I barely tick the amp at all when I run fairly large parties. I also know some folks that use these on their SRX's cabinets.  I don't think you'd be displeased with the output you would get from these. 

I have the DSP model and have a mode with the cross set at 90 hz and a limit setting on each channel.  I've never tripped the breaker on the unit as noted in the original bench test as a potential issue in extreme cases.  My application is almost always mid sized club venues doing house/techno, so I'm not as reliant on sustained bass as other types of EDM.  



Thanks bud, sure theres better amps for the job but like i said money is an issue atm, ill keep researching but take your comment into consideration, ill likely end up getting these,

thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2016 at 9:05am
Originally posted by Cheif_Stringer_ Cheif_Stringer_ wrote:

Is one of these amps capable of running 2 18sound 21NLW9601 @ 4 ohms, 1800w AES, 3600w program power (recommended power of amp per channel without clipping to drive these, im happy to use abit less), playing 30-90hz.

I understand there will be better options but these are cheap, i need two of them and i dont have much money.

Or would i be better off getting 2 t.amp TSA 4-1300s running two channels @ 2 x 4000W (8 ohm) using 8 ohm drivers?

When an amp says 2 x 3000w is that clipping or before?
inuke 6000 have 2x2000w/4ohm or 2x1200w/8ohm.
your 18sound 21NLW9601 have big moving mass and you need power to move this cones. you need 4kw per driver if you want work without clip or to much heat in amp. Also amp damping factor on impedance must be 500 or more because more moving mass more speaker send load to amp.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shaneukcouk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 December 2018 at 9:08pm
Not one to resurrect an old thread but thought I would post on the thread that made me buy the inuke 6000DSP's in the first place! 

Having used these now for around 4 years but never the same amp for longer than 2-3 years.  I have always used them in pairs run dual mono mode with each side of the desk feeding each amp using a Y Splitter so i can control volume using the front knobs of each channel. Channel b is sub 40hz - 100hz and channel A 100hz upwards. They drive Martin audio S15+ and F10+ 8 ohm loads each channel. The bass cabs are run with the limiters not reduced  so get about 1150w each, the tops have the limiter engaged to half power so they get around 500w per top cab. 

 These get used 2 or 3 times a week and transported around quite a bit. 

Here is my view:
 
- Amazing value, amazing DSP nothing comes close in this price range, very lightweight too which replaced Crown K2's i was using. 

- They have failed in different ways, the oldest one with a 2013 date code  went bang a year or so back and blew out tracks on the board next to the output transistors. I replaced the output transistors with the exact substitutes as it was out of warranty patched the tracks it worked for a few months then happened again (worth a try) its now a parts amp. 

- The HF boost people talk about due to lack of output feedback is very apparent especially when you go to switch this amp out for something else after using it for so long and being used to how it sounds on tops. I think it totally depends on what HF driver you are using and its impedance curve at a given frequency. If the impedance is high the amps boost of HF will be high?  The graphs from the test made on this thread do not show this in audible range  but there is a definite boost after 6khz upwards to my ears which is very pronounced and exactly what you don't want when really pushing levels on mid-top boxes. One of the amps went down one night I switched to putting both tops creating a 4 Ohm load on the other , this sounded much much better but of course only mono so not ideal!  

- I also notice that running 2 subs from one side of the amp at 4 ohms seems to sound more 'solid' than running at 8 ohms on separate nu6000dsp amps with everything setup identical. if anything I would describe the sound difference as slight phase difference in the kick area band. What could cause this and what technical explanation could one give? It should sound slightly better since the power supply is loaded down less splitting the load of subs between amps? 

- No one should ever take just one of these amps to a gig they WILL fail it is only a matter of a time, 2 I have had fail on startup so the first thing I do is power them up then continue setting everything else up. The second most recent failure of one was sent back and the repair done was Diodes, this amp wouldn't start every time going into protect 95% of attempts to start it. 

- The latest failure on one less than a year old is more something I cannot pin point, the amp was on with no signal running and volume controls at zero it starts outputting what can be described as tv static/white noise through both channels at full volume (and I mean FULL volume)  , as I rushed to switch the amp off I noticed that the screen for the DSP was off but the rest of the amp LED's were on (orange rings)  It has not done this since but now leaves me worrying if its going to do it again when idling after setting up and I happen to be not there to switch it off burning out drivers in the process. 

Looking at the new NX range they may have fixed the HF issue (although boards look the same) but everything else looks like the same amp. For this reason I will be looking elsewhere for replacing them. I have always had a spare ready to swap when one fails but its clear that they fail too often and the white noise issue is just crazy and embarrassing so a deal breaker. 

You cannot expect too much at this price point but the crowns are in the garage and still work after 18 years! You definitely get what you pay for! I have a lot of other Birhringer kit so am not berry bashing but hope someone finds this helpful in deciding if they should go for one or the newer NX.    


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