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Behringer Ultradrive Problems Poll |
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ermannofusini 
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Joined: 18 November 2019 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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 Posted: 24 November 2019 at 12:03am |
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Agree
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ermannofusini
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Joined: 18 November 2019 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 10 |
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Posted: 24 November 2019 at 12:04am |
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Usb or thunderbolt?
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stanley dj
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Joined: 19 July 2013 Location: Ireland Status: Offline Points: 150 |
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Posted: 27 December 2019 at 7:18pm |
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Dcx 2496 and deq 2496 are good machines but soonest u get one replace all capacitors in power supply. And sometimes u need redone ribbon cable they are rubish other way is sound good compare to more expensive units I was using it for years this units is also use in high end systems with little modifications on preamps
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platinumsteel
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Joined: 22 November 2016 Location: Trinidad&Tobago Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Posted: 04 March 2020 at 4:52pm |
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Hi guys...Is it possible anyone of you guys have a full dump for any version of the DCX 2496 the one with the Card Tray slot..I am trying to get mine up and running...When i power it on it just boots to a blank green screen..I had borrowed a friend's eeprom which was 1.18 version and plugged it in my unit and my unit booted up fine..so i know for sure it needs a eeprom with compat firmware on it..I had done that before i got my eeprom programmer..And my friend isn't in my country anymore so i can't get a dump from his....So hoping anyone of u guys might have one i can use to program it..I tried a few which i downloaded from behringer and other sites but none seem to cut it...
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APW
Young Croc 
Joined: 13 November 2012 Location: Kent, UK Status: Offline Points: 1107 |
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Posted: 04 March 2020 at 6:10pm |
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If you have one of the older units with the card slot DO NOT use firmware versions newer than V1.16, it will brick your unit. Newer units have a slightly different hardware configuration and the newer firmware is for the later hardware. |
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platinumsteel
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Joined: 22 November 2016 Location: Trinidad&Tobago Status: Offline Points: 5 |
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Posted: 04 March 2020 at 6:21pm |
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Thanks a lot for that information....Now seeing what u said coming to life...Cause am currently doing a lot of tests..and it seems to be true that the ones with the card slot are older and the ones without the slot are the newer firmware..But i borrowed some units and now also realize that some of the units that come with the slot also have newer hardware in them..i notice this by the coloring of the PCB..Apparently the newer hardware units have a brown color PCB..and the older units appear to have Green PCB..May be wrong....So it seems i might have to get a dump from a unit that has the same exact hardware like mine...This updating and flashing with these units are really inconsistent and weird...i believe there is a difference when updating using the software..And flashing the actual full dump using a programmer.Ah well the hunt continues...I have to figure this out..So if i come across anything new i will report back here..thanks a lot..
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teeth
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Joined: 05 July 2021 Status: Offline Points: 118 |
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Posted: 17 October 2021 at 10:36am |
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these get so much hate, but i really love mine. so useful and for the price, you can't beat it. i prefer the interface to something like an XCA to be honest.
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1ManSoundsystem
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Joined: 25 March 2019 Status: Offline Points: 20 |
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Posted: 11 hours 28 minutes ago at 3:53pm |
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i have 3 2 LE (2 inputs) and 1 PRO (3 inputs) at LE: the selector wheel got very inaccurate meaning, that if you turn it (it has small grid/raster) and u jump over 4 or 5 teeth, the on-screen selection changes just 1 digit. the faster you turn the wheel the less values change. in the end, i had to turn the wheel VERY slow and smooth to hit the desired values. i sent it in for repair, ~80eur since then it works allright. at PRO: some fool vaporized input A by fiddling around with his medieval shit.... i was drunk like a skunk, so i didnt notice that he was plugging countless plugs and sockets for no reason ! at some point, input A was dead, we found out after 15min looking for errors....didnt got it repaired, cost be about 150, that too much, i got in B and C left, thats allright. whenever we do a gig, i have 1 spare dcx with me...............u just never know
 Edited by 1ManSoundsystem - 11 hours 27 minutes ago at 3:54pm |
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Tinnitus Rex
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Joined: 31 October 2020 Status: Offline Points: 270 |
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Posted: 9 hours 6 minutes ago at 6:15pm |
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Damaged inputs to audio equipment? Laptops and other switching power supplies can cause 120v (half the 240v UK)to go up the input of whatever supplies the best ground for it, ( you will notice this if you have any nasty back"ground" noises that have been talked about here at length) Always use an isolating transformer between "it" and your system, or/and measure the voltage difference,with a multimeter, between the source (pin 1 ground xlr,or jack sleave) and your pin 1 ground before connecting. Beware, If someone is hot connecting a jack, the tip touches ground before it reaches its connection and VERY loud clicks indicate a massive ground voltage difference occuring for that moment.
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"couldn't we just like... use headphones?"
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