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Blowing Void V1400s? Heatsinks? (Sta v1 , Stasy 8)

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junoprobelaunch View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote junoprobelaunch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Blowing Void V1400s? Heatsinks? (Sta v1 , Stasy 8)
    Posted: 20 May 2022 at 3:32pm
Hello :)
 
Currently running a small rig comprised of 2 x Stasy 8s and 2 x MX600s but have had a couple mates blow their V1400s stupidly easily and this seems to be the reputation for the driver... 

Longterm I'm going to replace them with Fatial Pro 1600s but have an important event scheduled before this will be possible, where can I get some heatsinks for them and how much does this help ? 

Any advice or info from similar setups or experience will be GREATLY appreciated as with this setup if i blow the V1400s my entire rig will have no bass lol

Many thanks

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Tinnitus Rex View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tinnitus Rex Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2022 at 4:38pm
Its not a speakers fault if you make it hot. Heatsinks do not stop it being over powered by the amplifier ... dont over power your speakers ,they will be louder if they are cold (heat creates power compression) .Your just burning off amp power as heat with no extra speaker volume and trashing your coils. The only thing Void is your warranty.
 Or just add two extra Stasys as heatsinks Smile


Edited by Tinnitus Rex - 20 May 2022 at 5:20pm
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toastyghost View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote toastyghost Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 2022 at 5:38pm
The heat sink on the Void boxes doesn’t really do a lot because there’s a big air gap between the coil and the panel. Air is an insulator. The Psyco X was the only box where it was coupled to the pole piece.

Either way, the rear chamber is sealed on those bins and the Real Power (not apparent power) for most modern 18” over a *long* period of low crest factor signal is 600-700W.

Here’s the Klippel thermal data for one of the best 8 ohm nominal, 1600W AES standard 18” on the planet:


The Delta Tv for this driver is logged as 79.5 K. The Real Electrical Power (Limit) is 202 W and the P Nom is 333 W. This is much higher than most drivers made before the mid 2010s. Before anyone says the specs are therefore lying, they aren’t. The AES test is done physically, and it passes that.

This is the heating constant, and it is higher than the Ferrite magnet version of the same driver too. Pay attention to the time scale on the x-axis - you are not applying constant low crest factor signal for >400 seconds at a time in a gig, no matter what the music. You may however approach that period through the course of a 6-hour event.


Your friends have just overdriven the box lo term - possibly because their HPF, peak and RMA limiters are set wrong, causing thermal runaway due to compression of the peak to average signal ratio.

If you don’t have a DSP amplifier or external unit with a dedicated thermal limiter - separate to the RMS and peak ones - then you need to split the difference and really pay attention to the levels. Especially if you’re not bringing enough subs for the gig. That includes an assessment of running time, signal type, and expected output levels. Which are very different for band shows with breaks between acts and DJ shows that run for several days…

Edited by toastyghost - 20 May 2022 at 5:54pm
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