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Boominator MINI (development thread)

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Tsyphon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tsyphon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 2:26pm
So by "set into the 6mm box" I'm assuming you mean the front and back 12mm baffles are recessed and that you made the 6mm outside boards all longer to compensate, which is how you maintained the 45 degree chamfer around the edges.  What do you mean by narrower and rebating the 12mm baffle? Or do I have it wrong and the former approach I described is what you are saying you will do next time??? I looked at that picture on the main forum and assumed that was how you did it.

By edge treatments do you mean the outer black areas wouldn't be encompassing the red baffles, or do you mean the joints when you say edge treatments?

I really like the recessed look of the baffles into the rustoleum black, very clean.  Did you find the aluminum plate difficult to recess and account for, since in the other thread you said it is actually bigger than the electronics compartment?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aterren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 6:45pm
Hopefully the sketches below clarify what I mean by (set in) and what I plan next time.
By edge treatment I am referring to the 45 degree angle.  It was challenging to do in the 6 mm because my dados were not stopped.  That meant I had to fill in 4 spots on each side of the electronics compartment.    I can still add the 45 using the new baffle approach (below).  This will likely mean the whole baffle, including the 45, will be red.  It is a bit different look and the edge of the aluminum plates would be exposed on the top and bottom.  Today they are captured between the 6mm pieces.
 
Why go with the new approach?   First, I would like to be able to pre-finish the front baffle.  I tried that on the mini I just finished and it didn't work out too well.  It is very hard to do the final assembly without any glue squeeze out or damaging the finished surface during clamp up.  The new design helps with the glue problem and I am switching paints (2 part post-catalyzed lacquer) that will be much harder and more durable than the enamel.  This will let me use acetone to clean any epoxy that does squeeze out.   These issues required that I sanding the baffle down, masking the speakers and the black off and repaint the orange after assembly.   It worked well, but I hate masking.  
 
Regarding the aluminum plate I used a dado blade (a router table would work too) to cut a 3" wide recess, the same depth as the plate.   This was done before assembly and you can see it has been done for a few new baffles in one of the pictures on the other site.   Then I made a somewhat deeper cut in the middle over the electronics compartment..  Once assembled I cut through the deeper trough to expose the electronics bay.  
 
Keep the questions coming.  I'll answer them as best I can.
 




Edited by Aterren - 12 November 2014 at 7:14pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aterren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 7:17pm
You can see the recess for the plate in this photo

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 7:23pm
With a little modification of the design (inner dimensions stay the same) you can mimic a rabbet joint with 6mm wood. It makes assembly really easy without difficult cutting techniques. The only 'difficult' part is aligning the inner with the outer baffle, which isn't difficult at all. I can draw it if anyone is interested.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aterren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 7:54pm
@lutkeveld - do you know how much stuffing you used in your micro?   I used ~45 grams per channel.   In some offline conversations I understand you may have played around with the quantity a bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aterren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 7:55pm
Originally posted by lutkeveld lutkeveld wrote:

I can draw it if anyone is interested.
 
Sure!  I always like to see how others approach a problem :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 8:06pm
Correct. I used wadding instead of speaker stuffing at first, which was way too dense. You couldn't even compress it to 50% of its original size. After having somewhat disappointing 'deep' bass, only kickbass, I thought that it might be the wadding that was causing it (which was the case).

When I received real speaker dampening foam/stuffing I did some testing and I prefered it stuffed very very lightly. Fill it completely in but don't compress it. Your mileage may vary.

Meanwhile I'm waiting on my parts for my Micro V2. The PCM won't arrive, ordered it more than a month ago. Hoping to get a refund soon so I can order a new one.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lutkeveld Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 8:27pm
I will use this construction method for my micro v2:
This way you can push everything against the inner baffle. Do you see what I mean? You only need to extend the front baffle to the full length and width. Then make the top+bottom and sides smaller to make it fit. 


Edited by lutkeveld - 12 November 2014 at 8:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aterren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 10:12pm
Thanks for the sketch

Effectively that is the same as my next build sketch above except I am making the front out of 1 piece and cutting the recess along the edges. This is quite trivial on my router table.   I will also recess / dado the center brace in the top and bottom and sides By running each board down the router table fence twice, rotated 180 degrees. This assures the slot will be centered, and it only takes a moment to do with my equipment.

Edited by Aterren - 13 November 2014 at 2:33am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Saturnus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 November 2014 at 11:26pm
You don't really need to do either. The design itself ensures the structural strength even if butt jointed. But if you have the time then why not. I also like to do things properly even if not strictly needed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aterren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2014 at 2:37am
@Saturnus - No one will debate that point with you.  You certainly don't need to take these extra steps.   For me, and with the tools I have available to me, the net extra time is minimal.  Certainly it is more processing but the glue up is easier.   The trade off is worth while given my goal is to build a few for gifts at a very high level of finish quality.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tsyphon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 November 2014 at 1:07pm
Good to know Saturnus, especially if I end up not having the tools or I am uncertain of my skill after a bit of practice.

And thanks for the pics Aterren. I gotta say, I love the shine of the baffle paint on the woofer roundovers.
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