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Does my initial rig make sense?

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BatteryLow View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 January 2023 at 2:08pm
Hi! First time poster here.

I want to build a rig on the trunk of my car, mostly to party outside of the car (music to outside of the car).

I want to install the speakers on a easily transportable plywood board (open design), so I can take it from my car to my home and plug it to a 220v amplifier that is going to give me maximum RMS potential.

I was considering the next components:

- 2x 1" tweeters (stereo)
- 2x 10" mids (stereo)
- 1x 15" sub (mono)
- Renegade RXA1500 Amplifier (RMS at 4 Ω: 4 x 60 + 1 x 200 W)
- Stetsom STX2848 DSP (to separate my input to a 3 way output so I can plug it to the amp, am I right?)


1: As I understand it, I connect a music source to the input of the DSP, xover and route the ways into stereo high, stereo mid, and mono sub and then connect those outputs to my amp inputs right?

2: I want to use 8 ohm speakers, so I can use them not only for my car but for regular 220v freeparty aplications, that means the maximum potency I can take from that amp is half the rated for 4 ohm right?

3: In the future, I want to tune the system properly with REW and a mic, and to redesign it to properly fit the trunk characteristics, right now, I only want to know if all these items work together to throw them to my trunk and just make sound xD

4: Aproximately, the 2x twetters would sum 100w RMS, the 2x mids up to 600w RMS and the sub up to 700w RMS at most (haven't choose the drivers yet, waiting to know if overall this setup is workable). This means the 5 speakers sum up to like 1400w RMS, but the amplifier I want to start with is rated to up to 160w at 8ohm or so, I don't mind 160w is the maximum for my car, I just want to know that this decision is not going to burn any piece.

Can someone tell me if this overall approach is OK? Thank you guys
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Conanski View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Conanski Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2023 at 1:30am
That should work fine. 
Don't get too hung up on the power ratings of any driver except the sub, it's always going to be the one that needs the most power and the mids and highs just need enough to keep up with it... which will usually be a fraction of the power.
That said you might consider buying 4ohm subs and mids just to make them easier to power, most pro amps will easily drive that load. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BatteryLow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2023 at 2:44pm
Thanks for the reply. At the moment i'm non stop watching youtube videos about wiring and those things.

Do you thing the next driver selection make sense? What parameters should I look for matching different drivers in the same setup?

Fane Sovereign 15-600 LF
https://images.static-thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/specs/228240.pdf

Fane Sovereign 10-300/2
https://images.static-thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/specs/555925.pdf

B&C DE 10-8 Ohm
https://images.static-thomann.de/pics/atg/atgdata/document/specs/281406.pdf
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote slaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2023 at 9:31pm
Few comments ...

1) That amplifier is a class AB job - which is fine if you're able to power it from something other than a free-standing battery (in which case that battery will run out of juice very quickly). If you're OK to run the engine (I assume combustion engine) all the time for your party - it should do fine.

Personally I'd go for a full-range class D job - e.g. Pioneer series - I think they do a 5ch version of those.

2) I'd say the 2 x 10" are a bit unecessary for mids - the 1 x 15" won't keep up. A single 10" should be fine - could be run from 2 bridged channels (assuming 8 ohm driver). Otherwise something like 2 x 6" should also be good. The B&C tweeter is a compression driver that expects to be mounted on a horn - you ready for that ? It'll occupy alot of front panel real estate unless you use a smallish one - but that in turn will need a higher than usual Xover frequency - mebbe 2.5k - 3k - which in turn means you'd be better off with 2 x 6" than 1 x 10".
Mounted on a horn, that tweeter will have high efficiency - which means it'll only need small power.

3) What do you know about that Stetson DSP/Xover ? Never heard of it before - looks kinda interesting to me :-) Not madly keen on ordering from Brazil though.

REMEMBER....POLITICIANS AND DIAPERS SHOULD BE CHANGED OFTEN AND FOR THE SAME REASON
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BatteryLow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 January 2023 at 11:58pm
1. I'm perfect running it with the engine ON, I'm choosing a 5 channel amplifier to power everything for the sake of simplicity and cost for a first build, the 5 channel is class D for the sub.

2. Why won't the 15" keep up with the 10"? Do you mean it would be better with a 18"? I'm fine if I have to drive more power to the 15" or drive down the 10"s. I know the amp cannot drive them to their max rated capacity but I'm ok with total power being something close to 160w or so.

I'm choosing 10" and 15" instead of 6" and 10" looking for a more bass bodied music.

I'm horn ready baby and the tweeters would be crossed from 2.2-2.5 khz, maybe the 15" would be xovered up to 180hz or so, the rest for the 10"s was the plan.

3. I don't know much, I'm a total noob non stop reading about all these things right now, I want this DSP to divide my audio source to 3 ways with some control in the xovers and EQs.

I hope tomorrow I can take a photo of my trunk and a drawing of what I have in mind
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