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Drivers, Crossovers - how to choose??

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nickyburnell View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickyburnell Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2017 at 4:25pm
Originally posted by Meat Meat wrote:

Starting off at the end... #4 You don't pick the drivers at first.

You set the budget, work out what transport you have and what the power will be taken from, do you have somewhere big enough for storage (and how big are the doors to get in there!). You've stated the music type but where will your gigs be? Inside or outside makes a very big difference. You should also ask if you'll always be using the whole shebang or if you want to be able to run in a smaller way too.

If it's your first rig then you're best off not designing the whole thing from scratch and start with mainly tested designs as even using these you'll probably need to do a lot of learning.

In answer to your questions:
#1 It'll be 4 ways if you do it like you say. You can do this with a passive crossover in the tops but these are difficult to get right, and in that case you can use a 3 way active to link it all up but it'll still be 4 way.

#2 That's a pretty standard setup there but not the only way to go for sure. The more ways the more complexity to get it right.

#3 Again, it depends.

#4 second answer about the drivers... Download some of the free softwares that are out there and start plugging different drivers parameters from datasheets into some known designs. You'll soon see that some of them are very particular for certain types of boxes.


Such perfect advice, money withstanding.  How many of us have done it in reverse? Wow, look, 4 drivers for 300 quid. Bought, collected, sat at home with software and Internet trying to design something useful! LOL
It's everything, not everythink!
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Hemisphere View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hemisphere Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2017 at 5:15pm
Originally posted by Khyber Khyber wrote:

Bloody french ey have to change it all ;)
I know right? If it weren't for them we'd still be using proper units like furlongs and hogsheads.

Sub is going to be taking considerably more punishment than kicks. Think of cone area and excursion, plus larger cabinet size so there's more surface area to resonate. Honestly I think for kicks so long as you've got several braces directly connecting with the baffle you can get away with 18mm by itself. You can double baffle if you want to be uncompromising, but if you want to extend those standards to the sub that will need to be a fair bit thicker. 50mm is definitely overkill. The actual surface area of the baffle isn't that large since it's mostly cutout, and if what isn't cut out is also well braced you should be fine. 

Extremely thick baffles are sometimes used as a substitute for designs where bracing the baffle is impractical, but anything more than 36mm feels like it's for bragging rights more than practicality - small extra cost and weight for maximum perceived strength, but I reckon most designs with baffles like that have their weak spot elsewhere. That's really what you want to think about before going OTT on any one point - would this wood/weight be more effectively used in another area?



Edited by Hemisphere - 03 December 2017 at 5:22pm
Phase 1: Post on Speakerplans
Phase 2: ?????
Phase 3: Profit!
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Khyber View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Khyber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2017 at 6:09pm
My thoughts exactly. Ill stick to 12 and 18. There will be 8 braces attached to the baffle on both sub and kicks. So should be sound. Nearly finished drafting the braces then onto the ports. Changed them too only thing that is the same is the outer cab haha.
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Khyber View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Khyber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 December 2017 at 10:27pm
I figured this is probably the strongest way. There are quite a few examples of bracing like this on google. At least this way its just square and rectangle pieces mainly with holes routered out. As for the ports i will just put 1 rectangle one in the space in the center exposed with 2 separate grills over each driver, that way i can do something pretty with the port once i have figured the size and depth for tuning and not just a full grill covering the entire front :) What do you think?? i might just start a new progress thread in new projects and contain everything within there??



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