Bendy ply. hd15 curve

prolly easier to start again as ur gonna have a tough time trying to bend it,especially if u have to do a few curves to get the thickness u need.

It's really a lot easier than everyone thinks. 

As long as you get the plywood cut the right way round, you just bend the first sheet into position.  It will naturally form a smooth curve, just as a soap bubble forms a sphere...  Glue and tack it into place and then laminate more layers over the top.

When we built ours we cut the ply to be just short of the back of the box and then clamped it down by clamping to the back of the box.  The excess was cut off once it had dried...

PVA works as well as anything for glueing.

Some people have used curved battens on the sides to use as formers which they screwed the ply into, but we never needed to.

dom's method will work fine, but the advantage of using formers (both curves along the sides and a batten at the bottom front) is that you can wack on two or more sheets at a time. just glue them up, screw them all to the bottom batten, then apply weight to them over the curve until they're lying flat, and wack a few screws down each side. work from the bottom with the weight and screws and you won't get any ripple in the curve. its all kinda obvious once you start doing it.
the problem is this is all only really possible if you get the ply cut the right way.
if you've got the grain running along the curve, you'll probably need steam to bend it round and you can only do one laminate at a time. its certainly possible, i did our first 2 hds this way, but its pretty time consuming, and if your times worth anything to you then its probably cheaper to buy some new ply. especially once you factor in the costs of broken kettles.... ;)

are the drivers out of customs yet btw mate?

ashnono wrote: Did you use a batton at the top or/and bottom to fix the 4mm too?

Just make the batten that you screw the removable panel onto so it doubles up as a batten to screw the bottom of the curved section to...

[QUOTE=moss] will the curved section be strong/stable enough with the grain running in the same direction? 

On my scoops I slightly modified Rog's design by having the curved ply running all the way to the front of the cab,therefore leaving out the x-brace.I was suprised how tough it was (4mm Ply) even when I had only applied 2 sheets on the curve at quite a long length and I did not use curved formers.(wish I did,It would have been a lot easier!).So 4-6 sheets will be 'solid as a rock'(as Sizzla says)

cheers man!!