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18ps100 in a g sub?

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twosteps View Drop Down
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    Posted: 27 February 2025 at 9:00pm
Howdy, I'm about to start building my first boxes and I've settled on g subs. I'm familiar with the recommended drivers, however when looking for alternatives available in the US a couple people had mentioned the b&c 18ps100. 
Between price, availability, and reduced weight this would be ideal for me. However I've found varying t/s values for the 18ps100 online, and honestly not sure exactly how to compare them.

Wondering if anyone has experience with this or could provide some insight on viability?

Cheers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ceharden Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 February 2025 at 9:47pm
In general terms yes, the 18PS100 will work in a GSub.  I've seen them used in similar boxes with good results.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote twosteps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2025 at 2:15am
Originally posted by ceharden ceharden wrote:

In general terms yes, the 18PS100 will work in a GSub.  I've seen them used in similar boxes with good results.

right on, thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote godathunder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2025 at 10:13am
Originally posted by twosteps twosteps wrote:

However I've found varying t/s values for the 18ps100 online, and honestly not sure exactly how to compare them.
Cheers


I'd have thought the parameters on B&Cs own website are the most reliable source. You could always contact them if something seems amiss.

https://www.bcspeakers.com/en/products/lf-driver/18-0/8/18ps100-8
LOUDER THAN LOUD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMorison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 February 2025 at 1:55pm
Note that some manufacturers have updated TS parameters within the lifespan of a given model.
This can be due to things like improved measurement techniques, or manufacturing improvements that don't cause big enough changes to justify calling it a new model. That could be something like improved adhesives with better heat tolerance, allowing higher power ratings for example.

so, if buying new drivers, then the current manufacturers specs should be reliable.

If buying older second hand units to save on cost, pay attention to how old they are and try and find TS specs that reflect their age.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote twosteps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2025 at 12:57am
Originally posted by DMorison DMorison wrote:

Note that some manufacturers have updated TS parameters within the lifespan of a given model.
This can be due to things like improved measurement techniques, or manufacturing improvements that don't cause big enough changes to justify calling it a new model. That could be something like improved adhesives with better heat tolerance, allowing higher power ratings for example.

so, if buying new drivers, then the current manufacturers specs should be reliable.

If buying older second hand units to save on cost, pay attention to how old they are and try and find TS specs that reflect their age.
oh shoot good to know! and unfortunately i'm in LA so theres almost no second-hand drivers/cabinets ever available. so i'd be buying new drivers and having to learn how to woodwork building these cabinets =D

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FOO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2025 at 8:21am
Just go with the specs on manufacturer's site. 
 It's not uncommon to see different specs around, mainly because people insert the wrong specs. 

Anyways, have you considered B&C's own designs? SUB18 and SUB218?
Super simple designs to build and made for 18PS100 and a couple of other B&C drivers.
Can't go wrong with them. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote twosteps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 March 2025 at 5:01pm
yeah i've considered the sub218 but it seems the specs are for 1 inch ply, and i think that'd increase weight more than i'd like, and the g sub dimensions fit the stack i have planned better as well. 
thanks for the input though im probably going to just get some pd186/3 shipped from thomann if i go with the g sub.  

i also just found some martin ws218x clone boxes available near me, but the guy is asking an arm and a leg for them. even so, might save myself some build hassle and just try to snag those and put some 18tbx's in there. 
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