-= Show Off Your Woodworking=-

I know there are plenty of forums for those of us who think Norm' Abrahams is God. However, I am on this site, so I thought I would waste your time showing off my completely un-speaker related making of sawdust.

Part 1: The Set-up

Part 2: Jenga (128 off the sodding things)

Part 3: Trial Fit - Jenga bits get put into two rails, each with a dado cut in (just passed through the saw repeatedly, my saw blade has 3.4mm kerf, so you can guess how many passes....

Basically I got £100 of C16 70x45 stud work, and turned it into fire wood and rabbit hutch linings...

Part 4: This is where it gets clever, by leaving a jenga block over hangin its supporting rails by 20mm, you end up with a ready made shouldered tenon:

Part 5: Every good tenon, needs a mortice. Legs are tanelised 3"x3" by 1200mm deck posts, one post does 2 legs, but £10 each 

Part 6: Improvisation to solve problems:

How to keep dust, from routing, out of your beverage - cap off an aerosol

How to squeeze glue for jenga parts to rails, each rail 6' long, with a glue width of 45mm:

Both those ideas are patented, please contact me for license details.

Part 7: The Glue-up; White waterproof PVA for jenga to rails, but Gorilla glue for mortices. If I have made the mortices too deep, by a though or two, it expands to fill the gaps. To be honest, they were all a really good interference fit! But I would say that.....

The sharp eyed will have spotted that the two mortices actually "coincided", hence the glue bleed through. However, once glue had gone off, a quick chisel, and the second mortice was clear for its glue. Interlocking mortices, Norm would be proud....

Part 8: Bottom support

In the first one, I ran 2 more dados on the bottom rails, to take some stiles, to support the 12mm WBP ply base. On the second one, I just did a couple of simple pocket mortices, by hand!! Worked out quicker and more accurate with a chisel!

Part 9: Spray Shop:

2nd One, and I did eventually remember some drainage holes, and then to repaint them:

Wickes Shed stain, for those interested, White Spirit based, so penetrates nicely, and leaves a nice waxy finish, to repel rain.

Old and New, and you can see why I had to revise my 6 year old design:

Part 10: Lining

This was quite easy, got some PVC sheeting used as weed control/DPC below poured concrete slabs. Simply stapled into place.

I bought the leg end caps. They were a quid each, versus buying the router bit to do the same for about £40.

Part 11: The Money Shot

All in, for two, inc all wood, glue, staples, DPM and paint, change from £200. + labour 

First One:

And the other one,

I think Tham15 next, worst case would probably make good troughs for potatoes.....

burningbush wrote: I like the clamp on the glue bottle, can I apply for licenced use?

As its you, as long as it is not for financial gain! I just got really achey forearms from squeezing the fecking thing, and I had a clamp to hand....

godge wrote: Very nice,that's exactly what I've had in mind to build for the garden, although costs a lot in wood like you said it's still far cheaper than what you can buy off the shelf

As I was building, I was thinking of cheaper ways. Instead of my lengths of "jenga" for walls, just use sheet material, ply or something. If you wanted some "detail", just skim a V groove router bit every 75mm along it.

If you only used 12/15mm ply, you could easily get away with 1" rails, and then 2"x2" legs. Much cheaper.

I wanted chunky, and that C16/CLS timber is cheap, but surprisingly durable, and nice to finish. It also is partially rounded off on the corners, so adds a little detail, to an otherwise plain side.