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Powered PA speaker retrofit/rebuild
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Prizefighter View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 July 2017 at 12:34am
A few years ago I bought a cheap powered PA speaker from a yard sale and recently started thinking about re-building the cabinet just for fun, reusing the components (likely with a new 1" horn flare). Here's what I'll be working with:


- 800 watt amp w/ two inputs
- 15" driver
- 1" neo compression driver (appears to use a horn flare molded with the plastic cabinet shell)

I have no delusions of this being worth the time and effort; I'm simply interested in doing this for fun (what a concept!). Has anyone attempted something like this before with satisfactory results? My ultimate goal is to get more experience with my new table saw and designing custom boxes with a vintage wood/hi-fi aesthetic, making better use of an otherwise unremarkable speaker that's just taking up space in my basement.

The speaker's plastic shell appears to have cracked at the top, but doesn't seem to affect the sound that much. I haven't taken it apart yet (recently lent it to a friend for a wedding), but I assume there's some sort of sealed driver enclosure on the inside (likely molded plastic; doubt it's wood). Whatever the case, I figure the damaged cabinet is a good enough excuse to try something new and fun without too much investment.

Again, I know full well there are much better ways to build a powered 2-way cabinet, but I'm not interested in building an active system; just looking for a fun project as a good excuse to make some dust and maybe learn a new thing or two. If anyone has any tips, suggestions or examples they'd like to share, that would be a fun way to get the creative juices flowing!
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Points: 2199 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote imageoven Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2017 at 1:31am
A single active speaker is handy as a dj or stage monitor so I would be looking at a cab design that gives multiple mounting angles.asymetric sides gives you two or more options. This will give you plenty of practice cutting accurate mitres too.
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Use a radial horn(not constant directivity) as the ts115 is a radial type horn. If you use a constant directivity horn the top end will roll off considerably unless you use EQ.

I have no idea what you mean about a seperate enclosure inside? It is one big plastic box. Nothing more.

The amp has built in EQ etc to suit what's in it now and the horn/box tuning etc. At best try something like a basic similar sized radial horn(not a small horn either as it needs the loading, the tweeter driver is TINY) and try to get an approximately similar box volume and tuning and make a solid ply monitor or something.

If not find a plastic welder who can repair the cab and save yourself a lot of effort.
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Points: 59 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prizefighter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2017 at 1:46am
Originally posted by imageoven imageoven wrote:

A single active speaker is handy as a dj or stage monitor so I would be looking at a cab design that gives multiple mounting angles.asymetric sides gives you two or more options. This will give you plenty of practice cutting accurate mitres too.

Great idea! I hadn't even thought of using it as a DJ monitor, but since I plan on making it a similar aesthetic to my stack this makes perfect sense. This has given me plenty of new ideas for how to design the enclosure. Thanks!
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Points: 59 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prizefighter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2017 at 1:56am
Originally posted by LunchieTey LunchieTey wrote:

Use a radial horn(not constant directivity) as the ts115 is a radial type horn. If you use a constant directivity horn the top end will roll off considerably unless you use EQ.

I have no idea what you mean about a seperate enclosure inside? It is one big plastic box. Nothing more.

The amp has built in EQ etc to suit what's in it now and the horn/box tuning etc. At best try something like a basic similar sized radial horn(not a small horn either as it needs the loading, the tweeter driver is TINY) and try to get an approximately similar box volume and tuning and make a solid ply monitor or something.

If not find a plastic welder who can repair the cab and save yourself a lot of effort.

Thanks for your advice on keeping the horn flare radial; I hadn't considered that yet. Good info!

After taking an initial look at the cabinet, I do see it's just one big plastic box, as you said. I don't know what I was expecting, but after reading so much about properly-braced 18mm Baltic Birch, the idea of a lightweight plastic enclosure just seemed, well, like something that wouldn't quite cut it as a PA cabinet, haha.

Despite the crack at the top of the enclosure, I really couldn't determine what impact that had on the tuning and response, but now that I think about it, that crack may have even been there when I first bought it. 

Now all I need to get started is a 10"+ long Phillips head screwdriver bit to disassemble this sucker; off to the hardware store now!
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Points: 934 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LunchieTey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2017 at 12:08pm
Oh yeah, i had to do the exact same trip for a long screwdriver when pulling apart a set of Ts112s a whils back.

Amp had blown it turned out. Just out of warranty too.
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Points: 59 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Prizefighter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2017 at 6:55pm
I got the cabinet disassembled so I can start getting a general sense of internal volume and port tuning dimensions. As expected, the HF driver is tiny but should still work with a properly matched radial horn.

I have to say I was impressed with the sturdiness of the cabinet construction/bracing despite being just molded plastic. All wiring is quick disconnect so it will be nice not having to re-wire/solder when putting the components back in.

Now I need to get my design together. Ideally I'd like to rear mount the woofer behind a grill and spacer for a vintage look, but I'll need to figure out the best way to do that considering I also need to include a sealed chamber for the amp (I hadn't considered that before but it's pretty obvious to me now).

I hope to get some work done this weekend and will try to share some progress photos along the way.
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