DIY Reconing Precision Devices PD.154 - yes or no? |
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Isonoe
Registered User Joined: 08 February 2015 Location: Vienna, Austria Status: Offline Points: 29 |
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Posted: 13 April 2018 at 2:50pm |
Hi,
one of our PD154 drivers died recently. We have the option to buy new (245 €) or get a reconing kit (90 € - https://www.thomann.de/at/precision_devices_pd154rk_recone_kit.htm?ref=search_prv_0) We have no former experience with reconing. How difficult is reconing generally? And with that specific kit where it comes already with the main parts assembled? We heard that reconing often is leading to new failure, is that true and better buy new? Also, which glue is recommended? It doesn't seem that the kit contains it. If we'd do it we would follow a couple of youtube tutorials we found so far: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6CCrLz-Zts https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6b6tq-1TNr4 (very funny, on a sidenote) Appreciate your feedback.
Edited by Isonoe - 13 April 2018 at 2:58pm |
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Hemisphere
Old Croc Joined: 21 April 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2272 |
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Tutorials are available online so you can try and assess the difficulty yourself by watching those, and maybe take some old scrap drivers if you have any laying around, and see if you can familiarise yourself with the processes, parts and precision involved using those scrap parts as a reference.
People do 'amateur' recones all the time with good results, but one person's amateur may be another person's professional.
If you're not comfortable with reconing yourself, there are professionals who will do it for you, and it'll still work out at less than the cost of a new driver, so that's another option to think about. |
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studio45
Old Croc Joined: 16 October 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3863 |
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It's not that hard and a valuable skill to learn.
No. 1 important thing is to make sure you get *all* the old glue off. New glue won't stick to old glue. If the paint comes off with it, that's not a problem. If you have to get the heat gun, chisels and sandpaper out, that's also sometimes necessary. It's got to be down to bare metal everywhere the new glue will go. But first, make absolutely sure there is nothing left in the magnetic gap. Hold it upside down, blow it out with air-duster and then clean the surfaces with inside-out masking tape, inspect carefully with a bright light. Do that before you attack the glue, and then put tape over it so nothing else falls in.
I always use Evo-Stik contact adhesive, which if you follow the instructions and are careful with your applicator, produces a very strong bond. You can also use thick cyanoacrylate, but obviously that stuff sticks a bit more quickly than contact so you've got a smaller time window to get the kit nicely centred and comfortable in the frame. Finally don't forget the shims - they come with the kit, you need to use all of them, and get them evenly spaced in the gap. And, of course, don't accidentally get any glue on them otherwise you won't get them out. |
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Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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markie
Old Croc Joined: 31 October 2005 Location: Sunny Liskeard. Status: Offline Points: 4570 |
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It 'aint rocket science. Follow the instructions carefully, take your time and the driver will be as good as new.
Some manufacturers make you attach the voice coil to the cone, but it looks as though the PD ones are already fitted, so no problem there.
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If it's got wheels or tits it's gonna cost a fortune
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mini-mad
Old Croc Joined: 13 July 2012 Location: london Status: Offline Points: 6903 |
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Nice tips!... sounds like you have found a few ways not to do it before you mastered it yourself!
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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.
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Bams
Young Croc Joined: 08 April 2009 Status: Offline Points: 622 |
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calm does the trick. All above is true but it might take more time as you might think. And the glue: indeed not even one bit of the old should remain, i found out the hard way.
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Risc_Terilia
Young Croc Joined: 15 December 2007 Status: Offline Points: 689 |
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I reconed a pair of PD154s as my first time. Just go very slowly (think days not hours) and be meticulous with cleaning.
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Dub Specialist Sound
Old Croc Joined: 15 November 2013 Location: Smethwick Status: Offline Points: 4873 |
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If kit is pre asembled pretty easy ,if not gets a bit more trickier
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Musical Roots Reggae Vibration is Life! for music is sound...sound is vibration...vibration is energy... and energy begets life. Therein lies my passion!...MUSIC IS LIFE...
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Hemisphere
Old Croc Joined: 21 April 2008 Status: Offline Points: 2272 |
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If it's gonna take days then the money saving goes out the window really doesn't it? If your time's worth more than that, a professional recone is still a decent alternative to buying a new driver.
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Risc_Terilia
Young Croc Joined: 15 December 2007 Status: Offline Points: 689 |
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Depends on the value you place in learning a skill. Also if you were going to go down the pub with your mates and you actually stay in a recone a driver then the money saying comes back in the window
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norty303
Old Croc Joined: 18 August 2004 Location: Eastbourne Status: Offline Points: 8806 |
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An eminent and anonymous person sent me a recone guide that I posted as a sticky when I was still admin some years ago. Should be around somewhere I think...
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norty303
Old Croc Joined: 18 August 2004 Location: Eastbourne Status: Offline Points: 8806 |
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Like, right at the top of General....
P.S. I seem to recall the old PD kits came with VC and cone separate, which makes it a little more tricky. I jumped in and did my first recons with some Beyma, which were good quality kits with everything included and good instructions. https://forum.speakerplans.com/a-recone-guide_topic29715.html |
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My laser stuff: Frikkin Lasers
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