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Help: The tuff cab is peeling off! |
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Angelow 
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Joined: 17 March 2010 Location: italy Status: Offline Points: 199 |
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 Topic: Help: The tuff cab is peeling off!Posted: 11 July 2018 at 2:42pm |
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I made some divers with the paint sold by bluearan, (jar with the old black and white graphics) and they scratch very easily (I also tried to mix the paint with vinyl glue.) Is my mistake? Do I need to pass a good base? Do you recommend warnex? I can not however find the purple f1 available shipped in Italy .. I know only thomann who sees it but only black and white
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studio45
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Joined: 16 October 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3864 |
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 2:58pm |
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Tuff Cab needs a well-sanded surface, free from any grease, wax or oil. It won't stick to polyester resin car body filler, so if you've got large areas of that you may need to use a primer. If you think there may be oil or grease soaked into the wood, try washing with detergent and then drying thoroughly, then sanding again. If the boxes were previously finished with wax or oil, you need to get all that completely off before applying Tuff Cab.
You should probably just strip it all back to bare wood and start again. If there is a lot of finish to remove, I have had good success using a handheld electric planer, carefully, taking off 0.75mm per pass - it's a lot quicker than sanding, and less messy/smelly than a heat gun.
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Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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Angelow
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 3:06pm |
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is a phenolic multilayer, maybe it was better not to sand it and leave it rough?
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bass*en*mass
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Joined: 03 September 2009 Location: "unknown" Status: Offline Points: 4009 |
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 7:34pm |
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using "phenolic multilayer" asks for trouble/issues.. use birch ply, prepared for painting as studio45 described!
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studio45
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Joined: 16 October 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3864 |
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 7:55pm |
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Right, so it's essentially plastic on the outside - Tuff Cab is never going to stick to that. It's a water based paint and needs a surface that absorbs water so it can form a bond. Phenolic resin does not absorb water.
Warnex *might* work better, being solvent-based, but I've never used it so not sure. Phenolic resin is also impervious to most solvents, at least any that are used in paint formulations. From the WISA page about their phenolic faced plywood: "Can I paint phenolic film faced plywood? We do not recommend this as it requires special paints and even then we cannot guarantee the paint will last." So it looks like you are stuck with the plain brown finish..... |
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Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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bass*en*mass
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 7:59pm |
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standard warnex is water based too..
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studio45
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 8:39pm |
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What am I thinking of then....Trimite. That's the solventy one.
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Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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bass*en*mass
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 9:31pm |
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even 2part/polyurethane will have issues sticking to phenol properly.. its just saving on the wrong end imo..
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Angelow
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 9:33pm |
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รจ l'unico legno duro che trovo nella mia parte, e se uso un primer
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Jo bg
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 9:44pm |
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I would get in touch with some dub sounds in your area , or other spekaerbuilders, and kindly ask where they source the birch ply...
Or simply pick the phone and call all the wood sellers you can find. Can't believe everybody is using phenolic ply.
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Angelow
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 9:48pm |
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but I can not redo 24 cabinet
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bass*en*mass
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Posted: 11 July 2018 at 9:57pm |
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welcome to the real world and its issues..
you have saved a couple of quid on material that leads to more issues.. ;) |
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