24V Bluetooth Speaker

Can't really comment on the sound quality, perhaps a bit more noise audible than I'd like when it's not playing anything, but sounds alright otherwise.

I'm really impressed with the tang band, that thing is great for a small box! it's about 7l net internal.

Some more photos of the development so far:

The prototype box and it's first portable version ():

CNC cut parts and assembly:

Drivers installed:

Some Switch wiring. The buttons are LED illuminated, power button was straight forward but the other one is for the bluetooth receiver. I've piggybacked the surface mount components to bring the functionality to the switch panel, but the current from the board isn't enough to illuminate the LED so I'm having to use a transistor switch to turn on power from the 24v source. 

The switch and input panels are laser cut stainless and laser marked too. two different suppliers though so the registration isn't great. aux input is a switched connector that the bluetooth receiver runs through.

I plan on gluing the baffle and back panels on in the end, but for now I've used a neoprene gasket and I turned up some stainless pins that I can partially insert and it holds it all together in a way I can take apart easily. when it's glued I'll bash the pins in flush.

The black square beneath the buttons is a piece of Alcantara that has the NFC chip underneath.

I was planning on pressing/debossing/branding the NFC logo into it, but not really sure how that's going to work at the moment.

I always aim high and find myself running up against my own impatience and ability, stuffs getting a bit worn and torn already, I managed to blow up the bluetooth receiver when wiring something up. I thought I could take off the 3.7v battery that came with the receiver and wire in 3.7v from the battery via a buck board. Something fried though.

I might attempt to draw up the planned circuit in a sketch of some form, then you'll all see what a clusterfuck it actually is .

As for the knobs, It's intended to be a kitchen speaker, not too bothered about taking it places at the moment.

Cheers

Some good stuff here!

What is the wood and how is the finish on the cut edge?

I'm working on a non speaker project at the moment using poplar ply and the difference compared to birch ply is huge - I'm having to do a lot of filling into the cut edge and it's meant I'm having to paint rather than have a natural finish.

I may have been duped but the price was good and it's manageable.

Now it's glued up I'm actually concerned about the surface finish inside the port, could be a little rough still, I'll have to get a file in there.

That's a good point! it's all in chinese and I couldn't initially tell what the potentiometers did. I was fiddling for a while before I figured it out. how would I check? Wire the tang band to either left or right and run a bass frequency through it? 

In my MDF box I didn't have the mid tops in their own chambers and so when I saw them move a lot I'd thought it was just the 5" driver moving them. I guess they could be attempting to play the bass too!

With the relatively cubic design, v2.0 could be knocked up with a bit of standard cabimetmaking.  If you're a huge fan of the ply endgrain, it's possible to buy sheets of 'fineline' plywood (all pre-sawn and glued together). Obviously doesn't have the strength of normal ply, but good enough for a box side.