Outdo B&C 21DS115 and upgrade to modular subs |
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Crashpc
Registered User Joined: 26 February 2008 Location: Czech Republic Status: Offline Points: 463 |
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Interesting approach. I will think about it. I like the snap-on part...
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Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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4AC
Young Croc Joined: 18 September 2010 Location: Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 521 |
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To my knowledge, most manufacturers use a 'catch plate' on the subwoofer itself:
And then use a regular latch on the wheelboard: There are plenty of other solutions, but this one is relatively easy to build. Also, the concept is proven to work fine. Maybe another tip: experiment with the position of the handles, and also the type. I personally very much like this type: https://www.penn-elcom.com/default.asp?PN=H1028&LG=EN Good luck |
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uǝɿɿɐʌǝ6ɯo sı ʇsʞǝʇ ǝzǝp
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Crashpc
Registered User Joined: 26 February 2008 Location: Czech Republic Status: Offline Points: 463 |
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Hey. Thanks for recommendation. I´m still little skeptical about the clip-on wheel solutions, as it requires additional tooling and such. That is exactly what could make me not want to move that box so often.
I re-modeled my original box so the 100mm wheels would now fit. And I will make a serious try on that. That would really solve everything (or I think it would), if it worked For the handles, the design is appealing. How does medium hand fit in there? |
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Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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rayrainx
Registered User Joined: 27 December 2016 Location: nigeria Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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please somebody advice me.. Are these line array plans a GO. or is it just a bunch of crap? Happens to be the only available line array plan on the internet I have seen on sale.
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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Youre posting in the wrong place. Start a new thread so it doesn't derail this one.
People can help you there. Edited by JonB67 - 03 January 2019 at 12:11pm |
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simo69
Old Croc Joined: 29 September 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1890 |
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HI Do you have the drawings for this 21" cabinet design - as I am after four cabinets?
Edited by simo69 - 03 January 2019 at 4:06pm |
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simo69
Old Croc Joined: 29 September 2005 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 1890 |
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Crashpc
Registered User Joined: 26 February 2008 Location: Czech Republic Status: Offline Points: 463 |
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Hey. I don´t really have plans for any of these. I don´t care that much about past developments. But here is drawing of the original box: Full size drawing: http://www.picfront.org/d/9QyD 620x640x780mm box, triangular ports 180x180mm ending 130mm before back wall. The speaker back flange is 45mm far from the front edge of the enclosure, giving it about 25mm clearance for cone excursion before hitting the grille. With sane usage, that is okay, but with lots of power, the cone actually could touch or hit the grille if you go crazy at it. I would recommend another ~5mm of clearance if you plan to run the sub really hot. 508mm is baffle cutout, 548mm is for second "front baffle wall" as it is doubled (yet only one wall is used to hold the speaker). It is built from 15mm high quality ply/birch. The grille holder obstructs the bassreflex port a little bit, but didn´t cause any trouble in real world usage. If you mind, you might add some bracing to the back wall (I used triangles cut from the front wall, making the entrance of the bassreflex ports). The raw tuning is about 33-34Hz I think, which is very usable for PA usage. You could make bassreflex ports 5-10cm shorter if you wanted maximum SPL and less low extension. The box is suited for 21SW152 and 21DS115. Maybe RCF 21N451 and 551. some fast Voids or 18Sounds. Not good for lower motor force drivers with less than normalized motor force of 200 ((Bl * Bl)/Re). This box really worked for me, output wise. Yet I need to dowsize and upgrade the ergonomics. Therefore, more compact box is in development. You can make out the rest, if you want that box I guess. It is straight forward. For the second, smaller and taller box with bassreflex ports on the bottom and back side, this is matter of ongoing evolution. There are no static plans yet, until I really solve the enclosure in real world. Until it handles and measures as expected. Only then I will release plans. Current plan changed a bit, for accomodating 100mm rear wheels for the box. The final box size should be 580x600x730mm, bassreflex port is 115mm high on the horizontal side, 105mm on the vertical side. Very little, but variable port area. Back side wood piece is 32cm "long". The newest plan with greater cut-out area for the wheels differs at this part, and the port is touch longer. Raw tuning should hang around 29-30Hz, then possibly pushed down to 28Hz with slight padding. For this box, only speakers with greatest motor force (over 300) are suited, because the enclosure is really small and demanding. Final box volume for the driver will be like 122-128l. I´m hesitant to recommend IPAL drivers for these boxes, as 15mm ply might finally be too weak for this kind of drivers, and also those speakers displace awfull amount of air with their cones, and would do the same via bassreflex ports. Those beasts require at least 50% of the cone area for bassreflex port, to work towards the maximum power rating without serious limitations. My compact boxes do not supply this kind of "resources" to the speaker, so only speakers made for mortals are usable in there. I.E.: 21DS115 and direct equivalents. I tried to simulate and compare the plan with 18" drivers, as 125l might sound too low for 21" driver. It is for ordinary conventional drivers, but with enough motor force, one will still profit from the efficiency and sensitivity of the large cone, and also total amount of cone displacement. The driver still drives the bassreflex port to the usable extent. In the first 135l box, there was cca 2,5db bump in the 30Hz region where the port is tuned. In steadily falling response curve towards low bass, it is welcome. So the driver still could drive the port easily. I am not afraid to cut the box for another 5-10l because of that, to make it super compact, versatile and easy to handle. I´m super busy with family now, so I expect to finish this compact development box not sooner than by the end of next week or the other one. BUT, I´m surprised by myself, that I´m rather holding onto these plans. I was very likely to build something smaller, using 18IPALs, but due to the demands of the driver, the box volume savings would be negligible, and price would rise, while performance bump would not really be there. So, 21DS115 for the win! //Edit: repaired some mistakes in my text... Edited by Crashpc - 03 January 2019 at 9:26pm |
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Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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Crashpc
Registered User Joined: 26 February 2008 Location: Czech Republic Status: Offline Points: 463 |
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New prototype of the box has been made, with 100mm wheels that fit in. So the "corner" handle is not very ergonomic for rolling around, yet straight handle cannot be put and used on the top desk, as the box would not be balanced well for pulling. |
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Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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smitske96
Young Croc Joined: 16 February 2016 Location: The Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1085 |
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@Crashpc
L'acoustics have brought out the new KS21 (very similar dimensions to your design) main difference is their "L vent" I would suspect they also use the 21DS115, or an altered version of it.
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Crashpc
Registered User Joined: 26 February 2008 Location: Czech Republic Status: Offline Points: 463 |
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Including legs, mine will be 580x600x750mm. L´acoustics 571x602x762. That´s a funny coincidence.
I think they will have different tuning and different approach though. I also wonder how did they put 21" in, as their "L-vent" doesn´t allow for vertical mounting of the driver.
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Nikon and Canon people should not be married to each other. Why did you let this happen?
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smitske96
Young Croc Joined: 16 February 2016 Location: The Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1085 |
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Probably use 15mm wood, remove a bit above and below the driver. the L vent reaches a bit in front of the driver just like the KS28 but maybe a bit more extreme.
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