Amp limiters... why cant i...? |
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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Now that's a useful question. I've got a matrix 6004 which will give some useful clip protection, and two numark dimension 4s which probably won't. I have a dcx and Im not investing in new kit but want to make sure I'm making the most protection from what i already have. Primarily looking to not burn out my drivers by feeding them more than they can handle. |
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imageoven
Old Croc Joined: 28 March 2007 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 2186 |
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If that was at me then I am well aware of fluke. The point I was trying to make was that analog meters are commonly manufactured and available in a range of accuracy levels. Sorry for going off topic..
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Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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What the are you talking about? "Id Figure" isnt facts. Backing it up with the 2 rubbish ones you bought isnt either.
I've asked you twice to back up your conjecture with facts or maths. Both times you respond with flannel. Either back it up or stop posting in this thread. You're not helping and im asking for help. |
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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Not at you at all imageoven. Apologies for the crossed wires
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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What the had an ir thermometer got to do with anything And you haven't said *why* a dmm wont do and wtf are you babbling on about analog for? Admin... ffs. This joker is ruining this forum. It was a simple question, detailed 3/4 posts in. Unbelievable. Thanks to those that actually helped. Ill pm you directly for more nfo if you don't mind as i can't bear doing it on here.
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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No, i didn't. I asked a specific question about using measuring voltage to set limiters, which if you had read it you would know.
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dylan-penguinmedia
Old Croc Joined: 14 April 2011 Location: Brighton Status: Offline Points: 4575 |
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Jesus... put the keyboard down and have a word with yourself. There’s good and expensive, as well as cheap and less good multimeters in both analogue and digital flavours. ‘A normal DMM costs 20e’ is another of your bollocks comments which means nothing to anyone. This is the problem with the internet. Someone crops up and says something with enough conviction, it becomes ‘fact’. Someone else will read your comments and think it’s correct. Not just on about this post, but a few I’ve seen you comment on. If you don’t know, say so. There are people that DO know, leave the answering to them. /lesson
Edited by dylan-penguinmedia - 29 December 2018 at 12:52am |
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concept-10
Young Croc Joined: 17 May 2016 Status: Offline Points: 1293 |
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Elliot Thompson
Old Croc Joined: 02 April 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5175 |
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Since you are aiming for loudspeaker protection, each amplifier should be limited differently according to the loudspeaker it is driving. Your Behringer DCX is more than enough to get the job done. Your biggest challenge will be converting the output volts from the amplifier into watts to reflect the rating of your loudspeakers under their nominal load. High frequency drivers are always an easy load to an amplifier whereas, mid to low frequency drivers can/will put a heavier load on the amplifier at times. So even though you could get away calibrating the amplifiers with no load, you will need to limit the voltage possibly 2 – 3 volts more than the outcome to prevent any fluctuations of the loudspeaker load. Your Fluke meter is all you need and some means of noise (White or Pink) as noise reflects more to wards dynamic music material than sine waves. If you have difficulty converting the wattage (Program Power) of your speakers into volts at the nominal load, post the numbers here as I designed such a calculator to execute such a fete when I bench test amplifiers. Best Regards, |
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Elliot Thompson
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Father-Francis
Old Croc Joined: 24 October 2007 Location: Kenya ,Denmark Status: Offline Points: 2760 |
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Music is the strongest form of magic.(+45 31879997)blakmanpro@gmail.com, foa@sweetboxaudio.dk
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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Again, you make a statement as fact and back it up with spurious anecdote to make it sound valid. (The bit in brackets) Then you give me something which isn't about using a multimeter to set limiters, but about how much a limiter might attenuate, which if im setting from a measurement at the speaker end, matters not. Would only matter what the end reading was. Then you end with the usual fluff and meaningless nonsense we associate with your posts. None of it was helpful. Im sure you mean well but this has to stop. It confuses, dilutes and derails threads, and people post because they need help not a bs diatribe based on whimsy and assumption about a vaguely associated thing. |
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JonB67
Young Croc Joined: 22 April 2016 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 1376 |
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What i was hoping for it my guess was right, was to come up with a thread people can use as reference so they can grab their multimeter once the driver is warmed up, knock up as patch lead (if they want, i think it makes sense) they can plug in between the cable and the cab, set limiters to max, read the voltage and reduce the limiter until its reading what they need.
If its viable it seems a simple solution compared to the reams and reams and hundreds of confused posts on this forum and others on calculating it. Im sure this method has issues, but if it works its got to be easier! I'll have a play and post my results.
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