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Double 10" Sealed Enclosure Advice please |
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APW 
Young Croc 
Joined: 13 November 2012 Location: Kent, UK Status: Online Points: 1174 |
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 Posted: 18 April 2020 at 10:58am |
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there is already several threads on cabinet stuffing, Basically you don't need to worry about the stuffing volume…. Again this is a personal thing but I prefer to use polyester wadding (the Duvet stuffing stuff!!) rather than the foam https://forum.speakerplans.com/acoustic-wadding_topic45924.html PS… I have just found a thread regarding stuffing the box vs effective volume and you are the OP. https://forum.speakerplans.com/speaker-enclosure-size-affecting-damping-foam_topic104999.html Edited by APW - 18 April 2020 at 11:01am |
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Jack1991
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Joined: 05 February 2020 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 495 |
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Posted: 18 April 2020 at 11:05am |
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Cool cheers man.
Yes i know i made a thread asking about damping volume. I am just was seeking others opinions. As you literally just said the opposite to Peter Jan earlier about the centre panel. So i like to ask others just to get there opinions on things too. Thanks again man appreciate the help 😀👍🏼
Edited by Jack1991 - 18 April 2020 at 11:06am |
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APW
Young Croc
Joined: 13 November 2012 Location: Kent, UK Status: Online Points: 1174 |
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Posted: 18 April 2020 at 11:19am |
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Peter isn't wrong about the panel, both arguments are correct and will work just fine, I just pointed out that are some possible benefits in keeping the panel in place and it’s down to personal preference. When building speakers there are many trade-offs that have to be made, you have to build to your requirements and taste ….. One size most certainly does not fit all in the audio world!! |
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Jack1991
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Posted: 18 April 2020 at 12:06pm |
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Of course yes, i understand, pros & cons and also personal preference to it all, thats why i like to get various peoples views as im very new to it all.
A lot more to it than i first realised but its really interesting learning about it all. So i appreciate your help
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Peter Jan
Young Croc
Joined: 16 December 2008 Location: Belgium Status: Offline Points: 1019 |
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Posted: 18 April 2020 at 3:55pm |
Yes, I just meant you can leave it out from a strict technical standpoint, determining cab volume, tuning,... But the bigger a cab is, the more some kind of bracing is needed to avoid large surface panels from unwanted resonating, so put some ribs in or a whole panel and cut some “meat”, because that works just as well as a whole panel.. and saves a bit of weight. By the way, you’re not going to find many commercial available cabs pro/hifi/car/... with seperate chambers for each speaker doing the same frequency band and/or connected to the same amplifier channel. While it is possible a speaker going bust, because it’s brother cuts out for some reason, but it’s very, very unlikely, even when flogged hard. Besides open circuit is just one way of going wrong, but what about burned/shorted and/or coil mechanically blocked in the gap ? The connected amp is much more lickely to protest. I agree many decisions are more personal preference, than true technical need.
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APW
Young Croc
Joined: 13 November 2012 Location: Kent, UK Status: Online Points: 1174 |
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Posted: 18 April 2020 at 5:23pm |
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I agree with you that not many commercial designs have separate chambers for each driver, technically it makes very little difference to the performance of a well braced design and removing the centre reduces the size and weight slightly…. …. however I have had this exact mode of failure in the past: For many years I ran 8 dual 18, shared chamber cabinets (classic G-sub style enclosure but a little larger) that were loaded with Fane 18XB Colossus 600 drivers, on one of the drivers the tinsel wire failed mid gig (probably due to the age of the drivers), shortly afterwards the 2nd driver failed in the same cabinet, this time with mechanical damage to the VC (Voice coil detached from bobbin and damage to the end of the bobbin from contact with the back of the pole plate), the 14 other drivers in the other 7 cabinets were all OK as was the driver with the broken tinsel once the tinsel had been replaced, the other driver had to be re-coned! Edited by APW - 18 April 2020 at 5:24pm |
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Chris Grimshaw
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Joined: 10 September 2018 Location: Sheffield Status: Offline Points: 281 |
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Posted: 19 April 2020 at 6:10pm |
I did some measurements recently - I'll see if I can dig them out. Anyway, I use wool carpet underlay. One layer over most of the internal walls, and added a couple of extra layers at the top and bottom, since there was a fairly strong standing wave in that direction. The impedance curve went from bumpy (lots of small peaks) to smooth in the 700-1kHz range, indicating those resonances had been damped out. In terms of frequency response, there had been a narrow dip/peak combo in that region, which also disappeared. Cleaner midrange immediately. Chris
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Quality sound from Sheffield
www.grimshawaudio.com |
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Jack1991
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Posted: 19 April 2020 at 8:28pm |
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Oh cool thats good to know thanks Chris 🙂👍🏼
Im surprised at the different materials people use and seem to work well. Pillows, Duvets, Carpet underlay. All a fair bit cheaper than "branded" damping materials too. Dead handy
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Chris Grimshaw
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Posted: 19 April 2020 at 9:16pm |
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Yeah, I just picked up a big roll of the stuff and use it as/when needed. It does shed a little, but shaking it out gets most of the loose fibres out before installation. Chris
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Quality sound from Sheffield
www.grimshawaudio.com |
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Jack1991
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Posted: 28 April 2020 at 4:45pm |
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To save making a new thread for 1 question. For my tops im building a seperate box. This will house 2x 1" compression drivers mounted on horns and also the 2x passive crossovers. Id like to know if they can be fitted quite close together as there wont be much room inside. The comp driver is like a big magnet so i was worried that it might do something to the crossover??
Or would i be best to fit a ply panel between the 2 like the second photo.   |
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DMorison
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Joined: 14 March 2007 Location: Aberdeen Status: Offline Points: 1649 |
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Posted: 29 April 2020 at 1:21pm |
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A ply panel will do nothing to stop a magnetic field, FWIW.
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Jack1991
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Posted: 29 April 2020 at 1:32pm |
Oh okay it would be 15mm the same as the rest of the enclosure. I did put a piece of 15mm ply between the driver and a piece of magnetic metal and it doesnt get pulled to it. So im not saying your wrong but i dont understand why that wouldnt work? What would you suggest instead then please? Or does it not matter anyway? There will be a 50mm gap between the crossover and the comp driver magnet.
Edited by Jack1991 - 29 April 2020 at 3:14pm |
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APW wrote: