24V HiFi Amp advice |
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billso
Young Croc Joined: 03 February 2008 Location: town Status: Offline Points: 620 |
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Posted: 18 February 2021 at 8:59pm |
Hi I am soon going to be moving on to a boat and I am currently trying to work out my best option for my HIFI
I already have a decent set of passive speakers and a turntable and a phono preamp that run on DC. What would be the best sounding amplifier option to go for. A car head unit with built in CD player and DAB radio would seem the obvious choice but is there a better option. I would probably have to use a buck converter to get me 12V for the car head so would I be better going for a T amp thing and if so what ones do people recommend from a hifi point of view. 20 Watts a side would be plenty. Any thoughts and opinions gratefully received. |
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snowflake
Old Croc Joined: 29 December 2004 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 3122 |
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you can get 24V amps and media players for trucks/marine. Best to use the higher voltage if there's a big cable run between battery and audio system. |
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studio45
Old Croc Joined: 16 October 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3864 |
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Sounds like a TPA3116 board would be perfect for your use, they sound very good, as long as the board design is good. They'll do 50 watts a channel into 4r at 24v input.
You could potentially get a fairly cheap board and upgrade the input and output capacitors and output inductors. There are some quite nice minimalist boards available for very cheap - like around £10 - literally almost nothing on there but the chip and necessary output filters/coupling caps. If you get one with through-hole components in those positions they are easily swapped out for the Audiophile® components of your choice. Although the stock components actually perform perfectly well in 99% of situations. The boards are small, generate very little heat and are easily mounted in a waterproof box with power, signal and speaker connections. If your preamp already has a master volume control on it, that's all you would need!
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Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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slaz
Old Croc Joined: 27 November 2009 Location: London E2 Status: Offline Points: 2713 |
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^^^ What he said. Just curious though - where's the 24V from ? Is it the DC supply for lighting/gadgets etc. ? If its the same supply/battery bank as charged direct from an alternator form the engine ? Is it the same supply as used to start the engine ? If so, you may very well need some kind of spike protection in the supply to the amplifier.
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REMEMBER....POLITICIANS AND DIAPERS SHOULD BE CHANGED OFTEN AND FOR THE SAME REASON
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billso
Young Croc Joined: 03 February 2008 Location: town Status: Offline Points: 620 |
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Hi and thanks for the input.The batterys Are charged by alternator , solar and mains chargers so the supply will possibly go as high as 30V.
Engine start is still on 12v with a separate system. Hi studio do have a link for one of the boards , there seems to be so much choice its hard to know where to start. |
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studio45
Old Croc Joined: 16 October 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3864 |
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I'm still experimenting myself, buying ever cheaper boards until I find one that does not work ;)
This is the latest one I've got: Not had a proper listen to it yet but expect it will be pretty good. Will be trying larger inductors on the board to see if that makes it better. Note that 27v maximum input voltage. So your batteries at 30v will fry it. Likely you'll need some form of power supply too - like a DC/DC converter with the output set to 26v. That will take in whatever voltage your batteries are sitting/charging at and give out steady power for the amp. One like this: |
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Studio45 - Repairs & Building Commotion Soundsystem -Mobile PA
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infrasound
Old Croc Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: Brizzle Status: Offline Points: 2276 |
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TPA3116D2 will fry above 27v, use TPA3255 instead
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