Super Bass Horn V.02 by Startec (Quad Acoustics-F) |
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toastyghost
The 10,000 Points Club Joined: 09 January 2007 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 10920 |
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I’m not a fan of the SBH I’ve heard, and as yet, none of the Paraflex either.
Personally, I’d be going for a SKRAM if I had a hankerin’ for a 21” box that played loud, low, and was well designed. |
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sushi
Registered User Joined: 27 March 2012 Location: Milan Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Sorry, Toss Out.. there's no 21" sbh plan around.
To be honest, if you plan to use 21 inches woofers, you can choose some better cab for them: sbh it's a long horn designed to reach low sub frequencies with a 18" driver, and still with some compromises (uneven response, for ex.) Those frequencies are more easily reachable with bigger drivers without the need to load them in such long horns. There are some smarter plans made for 21'drivers, no difficult to find as well. Start looking for the 21' paraflex sub,to begin.. |
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Toss Out
Registered User Joined: 28 November 2021 Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Thank you..I think the same..hoping this until i will found it hahaha at least i change with 18"..sbh cabinet is my favourite with cerwin vega l36..thank you again!
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skankinmoe
New Member Joined: 23 February 2020 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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@Toss Out This enclosure was designed around the RCF LF18N401.
I doubt that there is a 21" version. but for 21" there are other folded horn designs which are already proven. https://www.speakerplans.com/index.php?id=21superscooper Edited by skankinmoe - 28 November 2021 at 11:57am |
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Toss Out
Registered User Joined: 28 November 2021 Status: Offline Points: 22 |
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Hi there..I'm new in the forum and I hope this is the right section...I tried to search Startec Super Bass Horn plans for 21" on the web but I found nothing..I found only for 18" that lenght is 1200mm..I hope someone could help me..I wanna build 4 subs like that with Eighteen Sound woofer 21LW1400...Thank you so much
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HeteBliksem
New Member Joined: 24 October 2021 Location: belgium Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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hi guys, thanks a lot for taking the time to reply on my questions!
@skankinmoe i will order two NLT4. together with driver when i've finished the cab, just in case i up.. ive also spotted some waterproof versions, maybe not a bad idea if i want to use it outside, the weather in belgium is kinda shitty! @sushi thanks for the efficient answer, i was planning on drilling in panel 14 (plan in following link http://hornplans.free.fr/sbh.html ) but i should drill bottom left or right of 13 right? i thought it might have been 'bad' for the sound if the cable and connectors would've been in front of the driver so therefore i thougt to place it in the lower section of the cab. as far as the painting goes, i have easy acces to the warnex speakerpaint, im not familiar with this one but as far as i understand this doesnt need a base layer or impregnating agent, is that correct? also, i dont really understand why i cant paint the joints, ive seen vids online of guys applying -what i guess- acrylic sealants on their joints on the inside so that there cant go any paint in the cracks? but if thats not the right way to go about is it fine if i just tape over joints and have it sprayed so that there is always a centimeter of 'virgin' multiplex surrounding the joints on the inside of the cab? @sushi @snowflake i didnt know the rcf had the clamp connectors, im familiar with those that shouldnt be a problem :) ill have to check out some videos for the speakon connectors and the easiest way to wire them, if its really not a big difference like @snowlake suggests ill maybe use a thinner wire given that its a lot easier to solder! i get that the power passage might be better using a larger cable but are there any risks besides that like overheating or burning your cable when using a finer one? thank you very very much!
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snowflake
Old Croc Joined: 29 December 2004 Location: Bristol Status: Offline Points: 3118 |
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the difference between the resistance of half a metre of 6mm2 wire and 1mm2 wire is absolutely negligible (about 0.007ohms). It's a struggle to solder large diameter wire and risks melting the speakon or making a bad joint. heat-shrink sleeves fit much more easily over 1mm-2.5mm wire too.
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sushi
Registered User Joined: 27 March 2012 Location: Milan Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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This sub's speakers are usually powered with more than 1kw, depending on the speaker you use. You should use a large section cable (2x4 or 2x6 mm) for a better power passage. If you use a small section cable it could cause a higher electrical resistance and decrease watts passing from the connector to the speaker. Same with the cable connecting amp and cabinet. The RCF lf18n401 speaker has a pair of clamp connectors wich are very practical (you just push, put the twisted cable in, and lift) so you would just have to solder the cable to the speakon connector. You should drill a hole outside for the connector and another smaller one on the baffle panel for passing the cable, no better place to do it than the right or left side under the baffle hole, do not drill in the middle because the speaker edge will go there and it won't leave much space. Buy cable and connectors before you drill the holes so you can make them the correct size, no air should pass through them. You could put 2 connectors per cab and wire them in parallel to run 2 cabs with the same amp channel. If you are not practical with that you'd better check this and other forums on speakon wiring threads, generally there are a lot of guide lines. I'm quite sure you'd find some tutorials online as well.
You'd better paint the speaker with a protective impregnating agent, and then use a hard and resistant finish paint. Just remember if you use water based treatment, you should finish with water based paint, solvent based and water based product don't work well together. Personally i use bicomponent poliurethanic paint, but there are a lot of monocomponent professional paints on the market.. look for warnex or tuffcab. I painted the outside and part of the inside horn (where i can reach..) Its clearly better to paint the inside of the speaker too, specially if you'll use the cabs outside with high humidity and bad weather, but you won't manage to do it when they are built and glued.. you could paint them inside before you put on the lid (which is the 1200x950cm side) but be careful not to paint on joints, or leave drops on them: hardened paint drops could keep panels slighly separated and ineffective joints are the worst thing one can get on this kind of cabs. Good luck by the way, this ain't no easy build for a beginner. Cheers! Edited by sushi - 26 October 2021 at 11:15am |
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skankinmoe
New Member Joined: 23 February 2020 Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Hi Hete
From my expirience (i've built 6): Construct the plan in CAD. Depending on the source of the plan, it's not realy acurate and there are not a lot or reference Points for measuring. The middle part can be realy tricky because there are a lot of angles. For the wiring: Yes, drill a hole, put the wire in and fill the hole with glue. dont cut it too short, you should be able to connect the speaker outside ob the cabinet an lift it in. I used two NLT4 MP-BAG and connected them in paralell. this is for connecting multiple Horns together. |
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HeteBliksem
New Member Joined: 24 October 2021 Location: belgium Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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hi everyone, i got 2 weeks of vacation coming up so i decided trying to build the SBH to keep myself a bit busy .
I'm a pretty handy so i'm not worrying too much about the construction of the cab itself, but its the first time ever building a speaker so i do have some questions. Forgive me if these are stupid or if there are already topics about my questions but like i said, i'm a completely new to this! First of all i was wondering about the cable that goes to the connectors. i suppose the connectors are placed under the removable part in the back, but to get there with the cable, do i have to drill a hole in the panel under the driver to pass the cable to the backpanel is that correct? and is there a specific place to drill or doesn’t it matter if its in the middle or on the sides? or do i have to follow the path of the horn until i get to the backpanel and not drill at all?? Second, i dont know anything about wiring speakers, connectors, etc... so is there a topic in here somewhere where i can read about this and where i can find some practical information/links or videos about what kind of wires i should use and how i have to wire the drivers and connectors? in general just information about the practical electrical part? Also, do i paint the entire speaker? inside and outside? or just the outer visible parts? and what kind of paint should i use? At last, if there are some sites, topics, videos that u recommend watching/reading, about cab building/ wiring speakers or anything else, please share! thank u very much guys! |
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sushi
Registered User Joined: 27 March 2012 Location: Milan Status: Offline Points: 90 |
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Hi! Thanks for props! I didn't heard them yet unfortunately, but owner tells they sound dope so i'm trusting him for now
Iirc it took 11 or 12 sheets (250x125cm) to make 4. I made a cutlist on workshopbuddy.com, useful online tool i must say.. avoids a lot of tetris playing and wood waste. Just remember this cab's response take a significant dip around 50hz, which gets normally flatten when using 6 or + in a stack, so if you are going to build a pair you'll probably need to eq the bottom end a bit. |
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subslut
New Member Joined: 16 July 2021 Status: Offline Points: 1 |
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hi Sushi,
them bins look sweet! you must be well happy with them!?.. im planning on making a couple myself but need to order the wood,. just wondering how many sheets of ply did you end up using to make a pair?
cheers! |
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