Reconing Guide - Pics |
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CHAMPION
Old Croc Joined: 30 September 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3667 |
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Posted: 05 April 2010 at 7:14pm |
Theres been afew times when ppl have asked, how to recone drivers & Diaphragms.
Heres somthing to go on...Roger.m should put somthing like this up on the main Speakerplans page!
Drivers
Supplies and Tools Required: Compressed Air
Soldering Iron Solder Sharp utility knife Masking Tape Double sided tape Sharp scraping tool or Chisel Two Component Epoxy or Rubber Type glue Plastic Shims Small weigh Diaphragms
Supplies and Tools Required: - Screw driver - Masking Tape - Compressed air source Step 1: Loosen the screws, remove the cap of the driver, holding the membrane firmly in place by the terminals. Step 2: Blow the entire area where the membrane sits, delicately with compressed air, in order to eliminate any metallic dust or fine grit Step 3: Remove the defective membrane; pay attention that there is NOT a plastic shim between the diaphragm and the plate. If there is a shim, it is very important that this same shim be re-used when you replace the new membrane Step 4: Visually inspect the gap and make sure it is clean: if not, use a piece of masking tape to carefully clean all particles from the gap. This step is extremely important. The gap must be 100% free of any and all foreign matter Step 5: Place the new membrane in its center using the same shim you removed in step 3, when you disassembled the driver Step 6: Re-position the rear cap and tighten the screws It is advisable, at this point, to do an acoustic test, to verify that you have installed the diaphragm properly: Hook up the driver to an oscillator and an amplifier. Edited by CHAMPION - 05 April 2010 at 10:12pm |
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Sticks n Stones
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madboffin
Old Croc Joined: 03 July 2009 Location: Milton Keynes Status: Offline Points: 1538 |
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I would advise against using compressed air. You can end up blowing debris right into the magnet assembly, from where it's very hard to remove. You can also spray a lot of moisture in there unless you have a very dry air supply as required for painting. Get a vacuum cleaner with a hose (a Henry will do, a Dyson is better) and some heatshrink tubing that will fit over the end. Clean the end of the hose with some silicone oil or polish to make it reasonably non-stick. Heatshrink over the end to provide a couple of inches of extension, then several more pieces over each other to make a good rigid reducer. Three or four layers will do, depending on thickness. Don't run the vacuum until the shrink has fully cooled and is nice and solid. You now have an excellent suction tool for cleaning the worst bits out the gap prior to using masking tape to finish the job. The reducer should pull off the hose easily enough when you have finished (just don't use the adhesive lined stuff...) and can be kept with the scrapers, tape, etc ready for the next recone job. and another thing: Cut out and and keep scrap titanuim diaphragms. If you cut them into quarters they make excellent scrapers for cleaning rusty gaps. |
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smithers
Young Croc Joined: 12 June 2006 Status: Offline Points: 887 |
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100 points and a smiley face sticker to anyone who uploads a guide on how to recone Dual suspension drivers like PD/Void/FANE...all the guides i've ever found online are for single suspension drivers like EV and B&C.
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CHAMPION
Old Croc Joined: 30 September 2004 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 3667 |
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i will see what i can do..i hav a stack of dual suspension driver to recone
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Sticks n Stones
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