rms vs aes |
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myser
Registered User Joined: 24 March 2009 Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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Posted: 14 August 2010 at 6:07am |
is the rms rating higher than the aes rating .. how does this work . so if a driver is rated at 800 aes what would i expect the rms to be .. ? confused ..
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myser
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subbass
Old Croc Joined: 30 March 2009 Location: bristol Status: Offline Points: 1683 |
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=aes+power+rating
AES is same as RMS, but 3rd party verified AES = RMS, but AES can be relied on 100% unlike RMS
Edited by subbass - 14 August 2010 at 12:06pm |
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_djk_
Old Croc Joined: 23 November 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6002 |
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You really need a time to be specified on RMS.
Once the whole magnet and frame reach their maximum temperature the power rating goes way down. AES is a very short duration test (under 2 hours IIRC). A 100 hour RMS rating (like the old JBL ones) will be much lower. |
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djk
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myser
Registered User Joined: 24 March 2009 Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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mmm .. conflicting answers
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myser
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cnc123
Registered User Joined: 23 December 2009 Status: Offline Points: 108 |
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In short
As a general estimate or a gest-ermate the “rms” is a third less of the “aes” quote myser “so if a driver is rated at 800 aes what would i expect the rms to be” = 600w rms approx before the 80s speak power ratings where for use with valve amps generally of small power so you had British and American watts rms with no standard test procedure British ratings where “Continuous rms” (sinewave at min impedance typically 400Hz) or “Nominal rms” (normal watts, What normal?. dictionary explanation. existing in name only) Like old Goodman speak for example Amercan ratings at 1kHz rms and later on a aes test for 8 hours all gave higher numbers Djk the man to ask especially on the history of American ratings and all the other rating example IEA DIN IEEE IEC FTC ANSI and more. dont ask question with answers. thats negative but with why why why untill you get and understand the answers you want P.s workt especially well when I was under 10 |
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Sibulus
Registered User Joined: 11 October 2006 Status: Offline Points: 901 |
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http://www.doctorproaudio.com/doctor/temas/powerhandling.htm
a good read. OP, are you a Buddist by any chance? |
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http://soundcloud.com/judas-beast
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_djk_
Old Croc Joined: 23 November 2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 6002 |
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That last reference at
http://www.doctorproaudio.com/doctor/temas/powerhandling.htm Is quite good until the end of part 4 (causes of speaker failure),
and part 5 (selecting amplifier power). In general, the amplifier power needs to be larger than the speaker's rated power. This is because an amplifier only delivers its rated output power with sinewave signal, and delivers much less with a real signal with dynamics. Totally backwards. Every amplifier puts out WAY more than its rated RMS power on program material. The only possible exception to this would be an amplifier with foldback current limiting trying to drive a very reactive loudspeaker into its rated minimum load. Four 8 ohm woofers in parallel are an example of this, unless the amplifier is expressly designed to do so (an example of this would be the QSC RMX 1850HD. An 1850HD is a 2450 with a reduced voltage, increased amperage transformer. In spite of its reduced power output at 2R, 900W vs 1200W, it still only carries an EIA rating at 2R, and not an FTC rating like it does at 8R and 4R). The Crown VZ series are another example of the above, when driving four 8 ohm woofers in parallel the ODEP lights will occasionally flash (even if not clipping). When this occurs the amplifier cuts its power supply voltage in half (in theory reducing power by a factor of four). Yes, a VZ will drive even a 1R load, but it will lock itself down into low voltage mode (to protect itself). It will also lock down to low voltage mode if it gets too hot for a long period of time. An Altec 9440 was an old favorite of mine, it too would lock down to a lower supply voltage if you got it too hot driving a low impedance. It also had a thermal shut-off if things got out of hand (fan failure or similar). will continue later As ageneral guideline, it is recommended to use an amplifier delivering 50% more power than the speaker's average ("RMS") power. For example, for a speaker with 450W average power, an amplifier with an output of 700W may be used. If a small amplifier is used, sufficient level will not be reached, nor the perception that it is attained, so the signal will tend to be clipped to compensate, thus endangering the integrity of the speaker. The cabinet design also affects thermal power ratings too. It's all about getting rid of the heat, a tightly sealed rear chamber can't get rid of the heat (without some external heat exchanger). |
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djk
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cnc123
Registered User Joined: 23 December 2009 Status: Offline Points: 108 |
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arr grasshopper not gras-shoppper you guess
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCyJRXvPNRo&feature=related |
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cnc123
Registered User Joined: 23 December 2009 Status: Offline Points: 108 |
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arrr djk enlighten us some more to be continued later you said
I shall have patience till then the fat Buddha p.s nice one about the amps |
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bass traffic
Registered User Joined: 11 May 2010 Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
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Good reading this thread, hopefully I'll remember to keep checking it!
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myser
Registered User Joined: 24 March 2009 Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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cheers for info guys...
yep am Buddhist ... Chinese proverb say - " he who goes to bed with itchy bum awaken with smelly finger " |
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myser
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myser
Registered User Joined: 24 March 2009 Status: Offline Points: 174 |
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what about "nominal power handling " as a power rating ... ?
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myser
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