Heat problems!? |
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TONY.A.S.S.
Old Croc Joined: 21 February 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 6878 |
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The nearest idea I had for cooling was copper pipe around the magnet and then refrigerated water pumped round. But there was too much against the idea. Going back to the original days of rave, many water cooled Lazers were used and it wasn't unusual to find bucket loads of water back stage, so sooner or later connectors give trouble. Secondly, going back to my Tool making days in the Plastics Industry, we used to make the moulds with water ways to cool them. There was a choice of normal water or refrigerated water depending on the working temperature of the mould. With a largish speaker system it would only be practical to have a continual flow through all the cabs, but although the water might start off cold, it would be getting warmer as it passed through the different cabs. All in all, it wouldn't be practical, so that was the end of that.
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SMP
Young Croc Joined: 16 March 2013 Location: East London Status: Offline Points: 1226 |
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It may be of some commercial value so shall say no more at this point
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SMP
Young Croc Joined: 16 March 2013 Location: East London Status: Offline Points: 1226 |
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I intended in thought something a little more active, not passive. ie refrigerated cooling. Which would be far more aggressive type of cooling it would be possible to use the signal to power it. just cooling the chamber negates ant need to have a physical connection.
It does require an exchanger to be designed and incorporated in the cab. I have so far no calcs but there is plenty of room for such a device and this method would be easier to fit without need to attach to the speaker |
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TONY.A.S.S.
Old Croc Joined: 21 February 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 6878 |
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As long as you can get machining accuracy, contact from the plate to driver wouldn't be such a problem. Aluminium Plates on the cab have been done, and it just leaves the various ways of making contact with the speaker. A bit of Engineering should do it. Efficient heat transfer would also depend on the size of the contact area being used on the speaker. Even an Aluminium disc hovering over the speaker connected to a rod that is connected to the face plate would have an effect, but good contact to the speaker would be the best.
An Aluminium Strap like a giant Jubilee Clip could also be placed around the Magnet and then connected to the plate. These methods are easy to apply with a Ceramic Magnet Speaker, but what about Neo speakers. Some of the larger models have the Magnets enclosed in metal cases, which probably don't touch the case, so heat sinking would be more difficult. Just a few thoughts.
Edited by TONY.A.S.S. - 19 December 2013 at 9:18am |
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SMP
Young Croc Joined: 16 March 2013 Location: East London Status: Offline Points: 1226 |
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I am currently considering the dynamics of this problem and may have a solution
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Nachural
Young Croc Joined: 15 April 2009 Location: West Midlands Status: Offline Points: 1255 |
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Ideally the heatsink would have to be in thermal contact with the driver.
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it's all just cardboard and magnets really
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vzummer
Registered User Joined: 08 April 2010 Location: Belarus, Minsk Status: Offline Points: 21 |
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Crazy Dane, you're absolutely right, for example have a look at VOID sub (rear): http://www.voidaudio.com/product_detail.asp?id=76 This is how it could be: Cast or milled aluminium (or its alloys). Could be aided (even replaced) with two side panels. Speaker access panels could be made from such heat radiator. For best passive ventilation all fins should be vertical at this point ov view. Maybe this configuration is even better that 1st, because: 1) increased dissipation surface (two panels instead of one) 2) additional infrared (heat) radiation transfer due to radiators closely placed to magnet Anyway, who's got money and is someway fanatic can place all three of them. Sorry for kiddish sketches, don't have forces to draw precise at night =) |
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Crazy Dane
Registered User Joined: 14 October 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 303 |
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What about a ali heatsink placed in the mouth of the horn folding?
Underneath the driver ore on the panel next to it. See link... http://peecee.dk/upload/view/271296 I'm working with CNC milling, and could make some heatsinks that maybe could absorb some heat? |
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Best regards... Frank
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toastyghost
The 10,000 Points Club Joined: 09 January 2007 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 10920 |
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Ten points to that man! Last time I ever ran them below 42Hz 48dB L-R.
The access panels sit side by side - even with spacers to ensure a bit of airflow you'll find the top cabinet is a lot hotter than the others. I believe Timebomb here looked into piping the vent out to the mouth of the horn but I'm not sure why a prototype was never made. Going from 700w to 1000w+ isn't giving you a noticeable difference to my ears anyway, it's all lost in power compression because of the heat. |
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abbotsmike
Registered User Joined: 28 December 2009 Location: Hillingdon, UK Status: Offline Points: 343 |
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Aluminium access panel with heatpipes onto the magnet an option?
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Timebomb
Old Croc Joined: 11 October 2004 Location: Lancaster Status: Offline Points: 2716 |
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What failed out of interest? did you get the former to hit the back plate? |
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James Secker facebook.com/soundgearuk
James@soundgear.co.uk www.soundgear.co.uk |
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Timebomb
Old Croc Joined: 11 October 2004 Location: Lancaster Status: Offline Points: 2716 |
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Neo wont make much difference, the problem is the small closed rear chamber, it gets hot over long periods of time at high power, there is no way for the heat to escape and it gets hotter and hotter and cooks the driver.
I run mine on about 700W each and ive never had a problem, the drivers can take 700W in the punisher, just dont clip the amp. |
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James Secker facebook.com/soundgearuk
James@soundgear.co.uk www.soundgear.co.uk |
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