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HD215 PLAN CAD DRAWING + BUILD PICS

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super-hero View Drop Down
Old Croc
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote super-hero Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2007 at 2:04pm
It's looking really good, quite a big project for a first build.
 
Did you find that the b/q 13 laminate ply was full of voids or was it their cheaper ply.
 
Also interested in autocad if you can pm me details. Cheers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heathrow_B_line Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 January 2007 at 2:13pm
the b and q birch is ok, ive bought alot of it and i realised that i had a sheet or two that had afew voids but mostly it was void free
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mykey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 January 2007 at 9:05am
hbl.. you didnt have to cut those curved pieces into single pieces, you could have used one piece
i'll do a sketch and show you how.
 
 
the top panel in the drawing is the ply not cut all the way through
 
so you do all your panels with the first cut not all the way through
then with the second run through the saw you do 2 more cuts with the blade lowered
 
then you fill these gaps with glue , then a quick snap and there you have it, all in one piece
just add some masking tap over the join so as to not lose any glue and leave them on there backs to dry over night
 


Edited by mykey - 09 January 2007 at 9:18am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote owentec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 January 2007 at 7:06am

Nice idea Mykey. Probably best to use a gap-filling adhesive with this approach since the pressure across the join is so variable.

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mykey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mykey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 January 2007 at 9:43am

thank's! but it's not an idea, i actually do it this way

standard wood glue dry's harder than the wood it self, but a gap filler will do to.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nigey-C Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 January 2007 at 10:25am
doing that would also give a smoother look to the front of the cab... instead of the kinked joining.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote owentec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 January 2007 at 1:12pm
Originally posted by mykey mykey wrote:

standard wood glue dry's harder than the wood it self, but a gap filler will do to.
 
Standard wood glue depends on a high pressure (100psi+) to achieve a high-strength bond. Its unlikely that a high enough pressure could be applied across the entire join using your method. If you used a v-cutting router bit of the correct angle instead, you could apply a more even pressure while the bond developed.
 
Owen
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mykey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 January 2007 at 2:09am
yeh true!
but that means you would have to have a bit for every angled box you build my way you can do that
 
its ok if your building the same box, you could get trend to make yiou a cutter for that job
 
but this is DIY  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heathrow_B_line Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2007 at 12:24pm
more pics from the bat cave...
 
i have finished one now, only the battern for the access panel to fit.  i decided to fit the braces along either side rather then a single central one. it works quiet well like this.
 
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heathrow_B_line Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2007 at 12:28pm
i'm thinking of putting another handle in the access panel to help get a grip during stacking them up but the thought of cutting more handle cut outs really doesnt inspire me with pleasant thoughts.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
there getting heavy now... im struggling to move them on my own!  if i had the castors on them it would be a god send!


Edited by Heathrow_B_line - 13 January 2007 at 12:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote puffah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2007 at 1:03pm
any reason why you built these as one solid cabinate instead of 2??? Are you going to run these on top of lab horns or punishers?? What are you going to use as your top cabinates??? nate ps they look great
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heathrow_B_line Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 January 2007 at 3:14pm
hi puffah
 
i made them as a twin cab because i was using alot of them so i thought that stacking and transporting them would be easier.  also i thougght that they looked nicer as a twin.
 
i was planning on run 6 lab subs with them but now i am having a custom 18inch horn loaded cab designed for me by a fellow bass maniac which should out perform the lab - the only drawback being that it will be 30cm wider and 30cm longer.
 
in terms of top cab its going to be 4 mt122's, maybe six i havent decided yet.  i was thinking about getting pron horns but it seems PAP ways have some sort of excuse for not having it in production.  the limmmer horn is far too expensive to consider. 
 
by the way punishers would not go low enough for me so i would rather have a proper sub bass cab then a bass bin like the punisher.
 
on a different note i was thinking about my 2 baffles and they would be hidden by the batterns nr the opening of the cab making it look like the curve is unsupported.
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