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THE T.AMP PROLINE 3000

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Cheif_Stringer_ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheif_Stringer_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2016 at 4:21am
Just revisiting this...

Is it just the actual plug end that would need to be re-wired on one of this? and would a simple adapter on the end of the pre installed plug not work? Ive got a co-worker who would do it for me if sodering and stuff needs done, id just like to keep everything as hassle free as possible though
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMorison Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2016 at 12:50pm
Originally posted by Cheif_Stringer_ Cheif_Stringer_ wrote:

Just revisiting this...

Is it just the actual plug end that would need to be re-wired on one of this? and would a simple adapter on the end of the pre installed plug not work? Ive got a co-worker who would do it for me if sodering and stuff needs done, id just like to keep everything as hassle free as possible though
 
It's easier for others to see what you're talking about if you use "quote" rather than "reply" - saves us having to read back through the thread to pick up where you're at...
 
Anyhoo - adapters of the kind you're referring to are often not rated to handle very high current, and even if they did, would represent one extra point of (possible) failure, so don't go that route.
Either use a prebuilt replacement cable or get a UK plug fitted to the existing cable by someone that knows how to wire a plug safely.
 
(I thought everyone did, even got taught it in school but maybe I'm just showing my age now... Ermm)
 
HTH,
David.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote levyte357- Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2016 at 1:00pm
Originally posted by toastyghost toastyghost wrote:

You won't get the full output of the drivers but it will make a fair bit of noise. Just keep it out of clipping.


Otherwise, everything will all just go quiet. LOL
Global Depopulation - Alive and Killing.
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Cheif_Stringer_ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheif_Stringer_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2016 at 1:16pm
Originally posted by DMorison DMorison wrote:

Originally posted by Cheif_Stringer_ Cheif_Stringer_ wrote:

Just revisiting this...

Is it just the actual plug end that would need to be re-wired on one of this? and would a simple adapter on the end of the pre installed plug not work? Ive got a co-worker who would do it for me if sodering and stuff needs done, id just like to keep everything as hassle free as possible though
 
It's easier for others to see what you're talking about if you use "quote" rather than "reply" - saves us having to read back through the thread to pick up where you're at...
 
Anyhoo - adapters of the kind you're referring to are often not rated to handle very high current, and even if they did, would represent one extra point of (possible) failure, so don't go that route.
Either use a prebuilt replacement cable or get a UK plug fitted to the existing cable by someone that knows how to wire a plug safely.
 
(I thought everyone did, even got taught it in school but maybe I'm just showing my age now... Ermm)
 
HTH,
David.


Thanks for your reply, the plan would be to fit a new plug on the existing cable then, ill get my co worker who owns a soldering kit to do it then, if i done it id have the feeling in my head of it going quite at any point as meantioned above LOL
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Cheif_Stringer_ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheif_Stringer_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2016 at 1:20pm
Originally posted by levyte357- levyte357- wrote:

Originally posted by toastyghost toastyghost wrote:

You won't get the full output of the drivers but it will make a fair bit of noise. Just keep it out of clipping.


Otherwise, everything will all just go quiet. LOL


Yeah ive heard the protection is basic on these, and that and the weight is so high. That seems to be the main compromise though from all the research ive done- these seem great for running subs
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bob4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2016 at 3:14pm
Originally posted by Cheif_Stringer_ Cheif_Stringer_ wrote:

[QUOTE=DMorison][QUOTE=Cheif_Stringer_]ill get my co worker who owns a soldering kit to do it then


at the power and current levels this amplifier draws from mains, the connectors should NOT be soldered, but screwed or crimped!

 
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Cheif_Stringer_ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Cheif_Stringer_ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 September 2016 at 9:30pm
Originally posted by bob4 bob4 wrote:

Originally posted by Cheif_Stringer_ Cheif_Stringer_ wrote:

[QUOTE=DMorison][QUOTE=Cheif_Stringer_]ill get my co worker who owns a soldering kit to do it then


at the power and current levels this amplifier draws from mains, the connectors should NOT be soldered, but screwed or crimped!

 


Whats the correct method then?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rhythmsandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2016 at 3:24am
Is this amp better than so called Class D from Labgruppen or Crown? or may be powersoft? I mean in terms of the subsonic wave hit? I mean tightness?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MarjanM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2016 at 8:39am
Subsonic?
Marjan Milosevic
MM-Acoustics
www.mm-acoustics.com
https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rhythmsandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2016 at 8:47am
read the middle post on the first page you will see how a member has described the performance.

Originally posted by l-sound l-sound wrote:

I have a  http://www.ebay.com/sch/Consumer-Electronics-/293/i.?_nkw=proline - proline 3000 running my 2x18 subs @4ohms.... it's not the volume that they produce which is awesome, it's the intensity of the subsonic waves that hit you. the only other kit that does this type of thing that ive heard (only Better) are the L.A Acoustic 2x18 subs (The manufacturer designed the subs I had around the L.A Acoustic kit. but i never said that). the way the 3000 bass restores after a big push, i.e bass drum kick. is just mind blowing.
It just doesn't get out of breath no matter how hard you push them.
 
Clap Got to be one of the best explanation of the performance of the T.AMP PROLINE 3000 Clap
Serious amplifier.
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MarjanM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MarjanM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2016 at 9:10am
You need to have a complete lack of understanding of acoustics to write such explanations.
What "hits" you is definitely not a subsonic wave.
People just like to use terminology that they have no idea what that means.
Subsonic is below 20Hz. That wont hit you ever. Might shake you. But that is if you ever find subs that can reproduce is at a level needed so you can feel 15hz or so.
Marjan Milosevic
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https://www.facebook.com/pages/MM-Acoustics/608901282527713
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rhythmsandy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 September 2016 at 9:13am
I feel its just his terminology and way of expressing. Its the initial hit so that is what he is expressing. Im not..
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