15" w-horn |
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doober
Young Croc Joined: 03 January 2006 Location: Cornwall UK Status: Offline Points: 1118 |
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Posted: 18 July 2013 at 9:06pm |
I've just built a prototype box, the woodwork is a bit ugly, it's MDF largely held together by screws and decorators caulk to make it easy to dismantle if I want to make any changes.
Box is 500x700 front face to match all my other cabs, and is 815mm deep, same as a punisher. Horn is around 140cm long. I originally simmed it for a pd154, but as I don't have one of those I used a Fane 15xb instead, not an ideal driver, but the sims are very close to the pd154. Sims show good output from 60-300Hz, but the upper end is obviously a matter of taste. I went with a w layout and curved bends to allow a good upper extension. There is a fair bit of wasted space in the box, but there always is in straight-ish horn boxes. I might always find a use for these spaces though.. I've only had a quick listen so far, and it sounds okay. I'll do some plots in a field when I get the chance, and try it with some other cabs above/below to see how it fits in. Kieran |
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all bass
Old Croc Joined: 11 October 2012 Location: the Netherlands Status: Offline Points: 1855 |
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Looking forward to seeing some plots. Design reminds me of Bill F's dr range.
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b grade
Young Croc Joined: 05 October 2012 Location: Portland OR USA Status: Offline Points: 1337 |
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That was my first thought too, just no tweeter array or treble, but I think is good because there is no way for the w to reach the piezos.
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Keen
Young Croc Joined: 30 May 2011 Location: Brisbane, Aus Status: Offline Points: 1203 |
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also a bit like Freq Nasty. nice work mate
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TONY.A.S.S.
Old Croc Joined: 21 February 2007 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 6878 |
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Nice to see something that isn't obviously simple. The cab looks pretty complete, but if you haven't thought of it already, why not cut a triangulated fillet and glue it behind that front joint, or when you make the next one, elongate the front panels so that you can cut the joining angles on and fix them together that way. Anyway, nice work.
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Mark James
Old Croc Joined: 15 January 2006 Location: rig side Status: Offline Points: 5309 |
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Nice!!!
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me so horny me love you long throw
horn loaded for her pleasure |
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imageoven
Old Croc Joined: 28 March 2007 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 2186 |
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Good work!
I assume it needs an access panel either side of the driver? |
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Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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imageoven
Old Croc Joined: 28 March 2007 Location: Scotland Status: Offline Points: 2186 |
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Oh and how are the curved sections made? It looks like it might be 2 thin layers? did you laminate it on a former and then fit it, or was it formed (bent) into the box?
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Keep pushing on, things are gonna get better.
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Timebomb
Old Croc Joined: 11 October 2004 Location: Lancaster Status: Offline Points: 2716 |
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Looks great i recon it will sound good with the right driver. Path length is a bit longer than DR300 so it should drop reasonably low in pairs, and be quite effecint to 70Hz or so. I aggree with Tony that the front join wants bracing. Is this do run above punishers? I did an upper bass cab with the same dimemsions as a Punisher, but 2 x 12" not 1 x 15"
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James Secker facebook.com/soundgearuk
James@soundgear.co.uk www.soundgear.co.uk |
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Dref
Registered User Joined: 05 April 2010 Location: Denmark Status: Offline Points: 287 |
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I love the complexity of your projects
With the right driver you might actually reach the point where the distance between the parallel walls of the top and bottom will be the limit of its upper response. I am to looking forward to see the frequency plot.
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A proper build subwoofer will be the only thing in a room that is not shaking.
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jbl_man
Moderator Group Joined: 12 January 2005 Location: London. Status: Offline Points: 11155 |
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Nice work Doober....driver is firing into 2 slotted throats,what happens next? Do they expand immediately,or is there a (what looks like) a straight-ish 4 inch deep throat?
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Be seeing you.
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doober
Young Croc Joined: 03 January 2006 Location: Cornwall UK Status: Offline Points: 1118 |
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Thanks for the input folks. If I build some real cabs from ply there will be 2 pieces within the central point bit to reinforce the panels, this will also act as a former during assembly, reducing measuring/marking and potential mistakes. There's also more bracing going in the mouth and on the rear panel, I'll try this as I test.
It will need access panels. It was a bit tight getting my hand around the chassis and magnet to fix the driver in the prototype. One side will need a large panel as the driver is already a close fit around the flange, the other side will be smaller(simpler too) as it is only there for bolt access, there is no need to pass the driver straight through and out the other side. This design will be used with punishers in some situations. My top cabs only go down to ~110Hz which works fine when stacked on top of punishers. When I go for a central punisher stack with the tops on either end of a stage or on towers it doesn't work so well, it sounds a bit disjointed and the central bass beams at it's top end. The w bins will go left/right with the tops to warm them a bit, doing say 70-150Hz taking the strain off the tops and allowing the punishers to cut off around 80/90Hz. I also have someone interested in using this design in another system to fill between bandpass sub and dedicated mid, hence the need to reach higher The horn path is split at the baffle. The 2 paths then contract in the horizontal plane toward the first bend. Vertically the slots expand in 2 flat sections to the full height before the bend. The result is an area expanding close to the designed flare rate. This started as a simple, quick to build, cheap solution. It got a bit more complicated as it went along! I managed to avoid a bung though.. |
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