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Over heating issues, Punisher , aluminium panels |
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ARR_PG ![]() Registered User ![]() Joined: 14 October 2013 Status: Offline Points: 89 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 14 October 2013 at 3:27pm |
Hi all, Our last ciare drivers have over heated, I want to put aluminium plates in the next build to attract the heat away from the driver magnet or speaker compartment. How do you create a D.I.Y aluminium plate. Does the plate need rivets, If so what for? Any info would be a big help as I want to run our drivers at 1000w for a long duration of time for festivals and outdoor events. Thanks |
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odc04r ![]() Old Croc ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Sarfampton Status: Offline Points: 5482 |
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There's nothing complicated involved, just fabricate some plates and drill them as required. Put some gasket tape on to form an airtight seal and bolt 'em on. Might as well make thickness as the cabs.
Now if you want to get serious a way to thermally connect the plates to the driver magnet rear would be interesting. Else you are relying on the thermal conductivity of air, maybe that isn't such a big deal though. |
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mini-mad ![]() Old Croc ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 July 2012 Location: london Status: Offline Points: 6903 |
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... really large jerry clip and some heat pipes?
![]() the plate and magnet would have to physically touch for it to be effetive... |
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If it sounds like a gorilla is trying to escape, turn it down.
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Sheggy ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 23 May 2008 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 1991 |
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I've often wondered whether the plates in the Pun make any real difference, do they? I've seen commercial closed designs with a proper heat sink - surely this would be better.
S |
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shagnasty ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 30 July 2007 Location: Guildford, UK Status: Offline Points: 7685 |
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Surface area is your friend here, forget using 15mm plate (from memory the punisher is a 15mm cab) the cost will cause heart-ache, 6mm would be fine, you can cut that with a jigsaw, or a router if you so carefully, personally I would get it laser/water axed and have all the holes done too so they just need countersinking!
Once I took delivery of the plates I would bolt as many of these kinda things all over the inside as I could fit :- Quite obviously get shut of the fan/clip/cable, use a bit of common sense so the don't foul the driver! Drill and tap the base of each one and use at least 2 thread-locked (loktite 648, don't play about) M4 stainless counter sunk screws to hold each one, use heatsink gundge on the contact area and spray the inside matt black!!! Hit up a local computer repairer for a load of heatsinks, they get binned all the time... Ideally you want to do similar to the outside of the plate, but that would be silly!!! ![]() |
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oldskool ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 04 October 2010 Location: Essex Status: Offline Points: 2100 |
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At the risk of getting a good forum kicking, is there anything wrong with simply using more cabs?
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Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it everywhere, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedies
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shagnasty ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 30 July 2007 Location: Guildford, UK Status: Offline Points: 7685 |
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Whilst I agree in princiapal, main reasons for not using more boxes are :-
i) You don't have any more! ii) you can't get any more in the motor! iii) you don't have amp capacity for more boxes... iv) given their budget they are bloody luck to have ANY!!! Most time more than one of the above apply! ![]() |
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oldskool ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 04 October 2010 Location: Essex Status: Offline Points: 2100 |
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I take your points Mr Shag, seems I come from a different angle.
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Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it everywhere, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedies
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shagnasty ![]() Old Croc ![]() Joined: 30 July 2007 Location: Guildford, UK Status: Offline Points: 7685 |
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Those "OldSkool" days when we looked at a job, quoted, telling the client what it would cost and apposed to being asked to do job that i would have charged £1200 in '95 (when derv was 34p a litre) for £400??? That angle??? I like that angle!!! Hence I go out with huge rigs now, like this stadium filler :- ![]() Driven off this powerhouse :- I'll wager that job was worth a lot money than most jobs punishers get used on!!! ![]() |
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Tocooltom ![]() Young Croc ![]() Joined: 07 March 2011 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 1375 |
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ARR_PG
Have you got V1 or V2/V3 puns, and which version drivers have you got? The V1 drivers made for the V1 plans tend to overheat quite often. The V2 driver fits into the V2 and V3 plans, it is slightly better with staying cool. however its not perfect. Ive been using puns for 3 years now and never blown a driver. What amps and processing/filters are you using?
how many puns do you have and how do you stack them? upright? laying down? Ive read somewhere that stacking the cabs upright makes the drivers get hotter than normal, not sure how much truth there is in that but maybe you have experienced the same problem? |
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toastyghost ![]() The 10,000 Points Club ![]() ![]() Joined: 09 January 2007 Location: Manchester Status: Offline Points: 10919 |
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Realistically a Punisher can't take more than 600w before thermal compression takes over, and adding a heatsink is probably only going to get you a dB or so more output for a hell of a lot more effort in the build. Maybe even less if you don't attach it to the pole piece.
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odc04r ![]() Old Croc ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 July 2006 Location: Sarfampton Status: Offline Points: 5482 |
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Something like that! While ali doors would no doubt help the thermal gradient from driver to outside world I do have to wonder how much the air in between becomes the limiting factor. A lot of void cabs have heatsinks thermally connected to outside world where it matters I think? |
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